ABDTR #5 Alberta Chapter #5 Discussion

front main seal driver.......

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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 10:06 PM
  #1  
1-5-3-6-2-4's Avatar
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From: Okotoks AB
front main seal driver.......

anyone have one/ or what are you useing? I need to sleeve mine. don't have anything I can get away with useing.
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 10:43 PM
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Mike Holmen's Avatar
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I just used a piece of wood or a large socket. Maybe thats why mine leaks. I can get the seal into position, I just somehow lose the crank cover/slip piece during the install and have to do it without the sleeve. Cummins has a special tool for the install.
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 11:02 PM
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From: Calgary, Alberta
I have always found it easier to remove the gear cover and tap in the new seal from the back side of the cover. I find the cover is too thin to tap in the seal while the cover is on the engine, and the edges of the bore don't have the chamfer needed to start the seal.
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 11:31 PM
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1-5-3-6-2-4's Avatar
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mine is a speedi sleeved one. gots a groove in the crank that is no good. have to install while cover is on. I had the cover off. to stake the dowel pin.....which was a 1/4 the way OUT. but I'm going to have to get the proper driver...i think no way around it.
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Old Nov 11, 2008 | 03:07 AM
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You might be able to afro-engineer it in. We put a speedi-sleeve seal in Dave's rear main, same thing, seal housing is to be installed, and it presses the seal into the housing and the sleeve on at the same time. What we did was install the seal in the housing off the engine, leave the sleeve in the seal like you're supposed to. Then start the sleeve on the crank, and use something (damper comes to mind) to press the sleeve on. Since the cover is much larger in comparison to seal, might be a good idea to have an extra set of hands. When we did this on daves, we ended up using an automatic flex plate with long bolts, then the short bolts, then put the manual flywheel on. So far so good with it.
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Old Nov 11, 2008 | 07:41 AM
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From: Alberta.......
I used a block of wood/brass hammer to work my sleeve on. I honestly can't remember right now if the kit I had (Case/Cummins) had the plastic seal installation sleeve that was oversized for the wear sleeve or if I acquired it somewhere along the way-anyways, I had one, I installed the sleeve 1st then put the seal into the cover and installed it. Worked OK for me. Mike is right, Cummins has a special tool available to install it. Your jaw will drop when you find out what it's worth. I'm going to get one when I get the rear seal/sleeve install too just to have it-but I won't have it for a couple weeks yet....probably will take up permanent residence beside my B series oil cooler pressure tester. Did I ever tell you I have lots of special tools?

Jason
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Old Nov 11, 2008 | 07:50 AM
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TDR Member John Strenkowski the inventor of the killer dowel pin jig has this slick tool for the front crank seal install. I don't know what it costs. Check it out: http://www.tricountymachine.com/ . Under the products tab.
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Old Nov 11, 2008 | 11:17 AM
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Mike Holmen's Avatar
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Has anybody done one with the rad still in and front timing cover still on the motor? I've done one, but don't recommend it. I used a really big deep socket and tapped in the seal. Mine started out fine (didn't leak) and about two to three months in it starts to leak. I find it the inner seal lips gets folded or bent just a little. Its easy to get the seal into the cover, but you have to slide the cover over the crankshaft. There must be a burr on the shaft thats causes mine to leak.
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