Dana 60/80
35s are stock Mike-I think you'd have to have a pile of traction to need anything stronger. If you're on a budget
you can restack the frictions on the factory Trac-Lok to make it better-I reclutched and restacked mine when I changed out the bearings. I think for myself, I would use a TrueTrac vs a locker-but everybody has a different point of view about that. Once you crack into the 80, you'll see how it makes the 70 stuff look like 1/2 ton parts.
you can restack the frictions on the factory Trac-Lok to make it better-I reclutched and restacked mine when I changed out the bearings. I think for myself, I would use a TrueTrac vs a locker-but everybody has a different point of view about that. Once you crack into the 80, you'll see how it makes the 70 stuff look like 1/2 ton parts.
35s are stock Mike-I think you'd have to have a pile of traction to need anything stronger. If you're on a budget
you can restack the frictions on the factory Trac-Lok to make it better-I reclutched and restacked mine when I changed out the bearings. I think for myself, I would use a TrueTrac vs a locker-but everybody has a different point of view about that. Once you crack into the 80, you'll see how it makes the 70 stuff look like 1/2 ton parts.
you can restack the frictions on the factory Trac-Lok to make it better-I reclutched and restacked mine when I changed out the bearings. I think for myself, I would use a TrueTrac vs a locker-but everybody has a different point of view about that. Once you crack into the 80, you'll see how it makes the 70 stuff look like 1/2 ton parts.
I had mine repacked with new discs. Said he used some "old school tricks".and I am really happy any hard launch or corner both tires spin even but I can pull a u-turn without the inside spinning as a posi would. Whipping dounuts on dry pavment is a good time but hard on the tire budget
Maybe thats why I feathered my old tires in the back..I have the 80 with the LS...But also I would told to quit taking corners at high speeds like a stupid idiot...The lower I get this truck down the faster I could take corners...One of these days I will land upside down like a turtle...
I would definately used the truetrac it is a helical gear limited slip. I bought that one NEW from randy's ring and pinion out of washington state for about $600-ish
mega tough and works great, like J said all our 80s are 35 spline inners. the 37 splines 80s are in older F450s
uber simple mega tough.
mega tough and works great, like J said all our 80s are 35 spline inners. the 37 splines 80s are in older F450s
uber simple mega tough.
Luke would you run the true-trac or the detriot locker? Both are about the same amount. I really don't want to use the ARB locker, as I would forget to lock the rear diff. My rear springs have sagged, so either I buy new springs, run air bags or take the front Kore lift springs out.
Probably might end-up doing the complete rebuild. The front axle should be redone and same goes for the Tcase. Been thinking abit about using the 271 Tcase, as I have to cut my driveshaft or build a new one anyways.

Probably might end-up doing the complete rebuild. The front axle should be redone and same goes for the Tcase. Been thinking abit about using the 271 Tcase, as I have to cut my driveshaft or build a new one anyways.
Coilovers mike coilovers. 
True trac vs detroit locker, is how much you are willing to live with on the street. The detroit clicks when it is unlocked (coasting) and locks with basically any throttle input. Then you get hopping and squealing around corners. It is a lot more of a positive lock, then the true track, but the true track is more streetable. Slow wheel speed is where the true track has it's fault, as what causes it to lock is a difference in wheel speed. The detroit locks from torque input. The detroit will also wear the tires much faster.

True trac vs detroit locker, is how much you are willing to live with on the street. The detroit clicks when it is unlocked (coasting) and locks with basically any throttle input. Then you get hopping and squealing around corners. It is a lot more of a positive lock, then the true track, but the true track is more streetable. Slow wheel speed is where the true track has it's fault, as what causes it to lock is a difference in wheel speed. The detroit locks from torque input. The detroit will also wear the tires much faster.
Ya I would do a detroit on a street truck. I had the 80 welded in my red truck. and I';ll never do that again either.
if you;re haveing trouble in a spot and the truetrac isn't locking up. apply the brakes slightly while still on the throttle and it will enguage
if you;re haveing trouble in a spot and the truetrac isn't locking up. apply the brakes slightly while still on the throttle and it will enguage
I knew that you would say coil overs
. Been thinking alot about doing it that way.
Steps little forward. Been thinking about ARB air locker, at least you can unlock the hub for the gravel. The tru-track looks pretty decent piece as well. Still up in the air on everything.
Thinking about buying a spare front dana 60, so we can do my front end rebuild. When I get back I have to talk to Rob.
. Been thinking alot about doing it that way.
Steps little forward. Been thinking about ARB air locker, at least you can unlock the hub for the gravel. The tru-track looks pretty decent piece as well. Still up in the air on everything.
Thinking about buying a spare front dana 60, so we can do my front end rebuild. When I get back I have to talk to Rob.
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