I've been ripping apart one of my core engines. During the tear down, I found that one of the pistons was burnt/or been fairly hot. #1 piston (very front of the engine near the water pump). I removed the crank today, and I found that one of the oil squirters is missing. I want to repair the piston oil squirted and get to like the others. Here is a few pictures. I'll check around on Monday and see if I can buy a replacement or find a way to repair it.

 

I think they are like that from factory. It felt like the #1 squirter in my 2k engine was also missing. Pretty sure I read on Comp-d that #1's are short, or are not there at all.

Is that the VE engine?

 

Yup sure is, that the cylinder that had some burnt marks on the cylinder. I have a picture posted, is this normal for the bearings. I noticed that the main bearing had two oiling holes in the top bearing. One was for supply and one was for oil squirter. The oil squirter galley was partially block by the bearing. You in town.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...6&d=1275094872

 

the blockage is normal. you're not looking for flow there. just higher pressure and minimal flow. as thats the last restriction in the oil system.

 

Are these the plastic ones?

I remember reading (a number of years ago) someone here had a machine shop make up steel squirters.

 

I'll check into what I can get done next week. I want all of the squirts to work and work decently. I'm not sure exactly on how I'm going to set-up the engine yet. I might put some fill (epoxy stiffner) inside the block and the head, so the oil will be doing more cooling than typical. The CTD head hardly flows any air as those coolant passageways get in the way. Filling the head is the only way to really openned up the air way. Been looking at billet 12v head, but that might be next year project.

Anybody take a good look at the stock oil cooler design? We can build it better than that. I really wonder how much cooling that design really does.

 

I think the J-jet squirters in the later CR's are steel, pretty sure all the 12v/24v are the green plastic ones.

 

I've read that the CR squirters are replaceable, older ones is more of a grey area (this motor the squirts are yellow). I might have look into getting something fabbed up if I have to install the newer design. Well will see, this engine is in pretty good shape considering how its been stored and old it is. Hate to scrap the engine just cause of a damaged squirter, if its damaged.

Been doing some reading on rod small end bushing. Might have to do some upgrades there as well, older stuff had design issues.

On the positive side, I'm thinking about making delete plates for tappet cover, fuel pump and making a plate for the remote cooler install.