Lucas1

First post since 2012 .

I should have never left!!

This forum room has the best info and group of guys .Usually good advice
Corny I know...

Well since twin build I've blown up tranny twice
A flex plate and now a farting head gasket.
All in last 4 months.

Pretty sure excessive drive pressure killed it and not warm enough.
What's excessive though?

So....
I am too far into this pail to quit now

Going to park it and drive spare vehicle .

It's sitting in driveway with blown gasket.

I have a 215hp p pump swap on the bench and a nitrous bottle

Advice.... I need

I was thinking take engine/trans out making it easier to work on

P pump swap with pump built by ...???
New 5x16 injectors
Dual fuel/aero motive 1000 blk/ filter set up or new fass 200g
Colt cam.... Biggest without fly cut? Stage 4 Or should I cut.
Valve springs/ push rods/ tappers all new stuff ? Hamilton
Back to head shop for full port/ polish
Steed speed manifold
44m waste gate
Waste gate plumbed in with mods to twin piping
Plenum intake with twin ram banks style
Fix all oil leaks
Nitrous

I have $5k max
If I hit $35k into it old lady is leaving

Goal
750hp reliable and it can still tow without melting down

Lil Dog

Holy smokes.. That's quite a list. So even with studs and o-rings you spit the gasket? Sounds odd to me.

Lucas1

Idled in Driveway 10 min then drive 4 blocks like old lady to get coffee .

Then turned onto go way and romped on it.
Pulled big hill noticed hi temp.

Either studs didn't get torqued right ( not likely)
Not warm enough engine temp= possibility
High drive pressure = likely cause

I was thinking of pulling the engine because working on lifted truck with new paint is Terrible

Dieselbuilder

To help the head gasket really check block deck make sure it's flat and maybe go the bigger head studs!

Lucas1

Anyone know what's excessive for drive pressure??

Mine is approx 1.4:1. Very appox

Need bigger drive gauge as it buries the 60psi one

Tate

Drive pressure does NOT hurt gaskets. Cylinder pressures are 2500+ psi, drive pressure might be 150 psi (setup dependent). Cylinder pressures are what kill head gaskets.

If you didn't retorque the studs, factor in a cool motor and thats likely part of the issue. Remember, its not necessarily a single event, could be a weakened gasket that kept getting pushed a little further till it finally failed.

If you want the pump tuned up right, look to Seth at DPE or Kevin at Northeast Diesel. I had my pump done by North West Fuel Injection. Never again. After sending it back, it still had the same issues. To the point you cannot drive it. You may look to upgrading to a 13mm pump. It'll take you past your 750 goal, but it'll do it much cleaner and much more responsive. But they are not cheap.

What turbos are you running?

Lucas1

I think I am asking too much for 750

Lets say solid 650 on fuel

Did NOT re torque studs

Lucas1

Running he351/s475

But thinking of a s480 with better options

Lucas1

Recipe for good running setup

.24 bosch delivery valves
Adjustable afc plate
4000 springs.

150# industrial springs
Hamilton titanium keepers
Hamilton pushrods
Colt cam stage 4
Head cleaned up and polished

Manifold maybe not steed as their prices are rediculous now
44mm waste gate

Aeromotive black 1000 feeding factory lift pump or paralleled

Dual intake with 2 intake horn

Zex universal kit


I usually deal with Harry at peak.
Anywhere else good to shop? Online to US?

Tate

I deleted the things I think are unnecessary. Cam will help. Benched pump will help. Have you opened up the factory wastegate in the 351? You can open those up to more than an inch, IIRC. That should be enough. You can scratch the manifold and external off your list at that point.

Whats the specs on the S475? If its a 75/83/1.10, you could go to larger turbine and should help free up some power as well. a 78/87/1.10 would work well, but that becoming a money turbo at that point, and a 80/96/1.32 would be cheaper I bet.

Lucas1

The he351 is ported as much as it can go .
But I the installed a boost "regulator" to help cheat the wategate set it to start creeping at 35. Would only hit 50 psi and smoke like a train .
I have also ran it closed shut to drive the primary and it ran better would hit 63 psi still smokey but not as bad.
Boost leaks checked to 70 psi and none found.

I figured the wategate was needed if the nitrous went on to keep turbo speed controlled , and a 215 pump will prob double the cc/fuel as the ve
38mm may do it?

Now I figured truck ran a bit shitty .
De fueled after like 2500rpm
Prob valve float too as it never had boost I'd expect

School me on the need of valve springs to run up to 4k

The turbo is a box s475 96/ 1.32 cheapo

The truck was WAY quicker with the forced S476/83/1.1 I had of mikes
But it **** the bed like 50km after installing it. At the time I was sick of spending money on the truck(still am)
Or I would have put a good turbo on

Lucas1

Ok

Pump shop got the pump to work on


Cam stage 4colt?
Valve springs ...industrial?? Hamilton???
Injectors.........thinking 140hp ddp thoughts?
Manifold..... Not sure what one.. Bd diesel? Ats? Steed?
Delivery valves .22 or .24
4000 springs

Going to tear into it in two weeks need to get on it.

Anybody have other suggestion?