Hi

I am new to this forum mainly because I don’t currently own at dodge but I am going to purchase the 2010 3500 dually in the “4th quarter” lol my car now is a 2007 jeep jk 4door and it is on its last lag. I am hoping that these are indestructible! Because I have had nothing but problems with my jeep here is was has been replaced so far

3times right U-Joints
Front diff pumpkin
Heat block
A lot of wiring
New transmission just last week
Right hub
Up and lower ball joints
Spark plug back fired and needed new harness
Lights in the first 5000km
I know there is more because when I pulled up the VIN it was 4 pages long and that was before the tranny was replaced...
And it is going back today because I am having steering problems!

So my question is, are these trucks built to last and how have then been to you?


I drive a lot, my jeep has 80,000km on it and it has not even been 2full years. How is the 6.7 on fuel mileage? Also one other thing that I have heard a lot of negative feedback is the emissions junk on them causing problems. How hard or illegal and costly would it be to have it removed and just run the straight back pipe? And is that the only known problem?

Another big question in my mind is what kind of transmission to get. I am after the strongest one I can get out of the factory. I like standard but if that 6speed auto is stronger I would not be opposed to it. I am planning on adding a tuner for about 500hp 900tq. I just want to make sure I build this right from the start. Also if anyone has preferences tuning wise? I know of edge... and I have heard more and more about a smarty but have no idea about it.
Also gear ratio (I have 4.10 in my jeep now with 33”tyres) which is preferred with the 3500? Economy is the big concern (no 5th wheel towing here)

And the last thing is bed liners? Is there a factory spray on? And other aftermarket one

Sorry for the book just want to make sure I get this one right


Thanks guys
Kris

 

The 6.7 Cummins gets terrible fuel mileage, compared to the 5.9. So far, I have heard nothing but good things about the new 6spd auto, but I don't have any personal experience.

It is illegal to take the emissions equipment off the truck, and it is the major reason why they are not to be used for daily, unloaded drivers. They need to be really worked, in order to get all the crap out of the DPF. I'm not sure of a tuner for the 6.7 so I can't help you there.

I think you would be better off with a 5.9, mainly because they have been proven time and time again to be reliable, and very good engines. If you want a truck to just hook up some boxes and have more rwhp, than I would suggest an '04 or so Common Rail. They are easy to get some pretty high rwhp numbers out of. If you don't mind doing actual work () than a P-Pumped truck will do you good. The 12 Valves have been proven to be the most reliable, mainly due to very few electronics.

If you do decide to go with a 2nd gen, avoid the VP like the plague!

Hope that helped.

 

The 6.7L can get decent mileage with the DPF still on if it has a tuner ( a friend gets 17-18 mpg highway with the PPE tuner). It can get pretty well the the same mileage as a 5.9L with the DPF removed.

The 2010's are more aerodynamic, so remove the DPF, throw on a real tuner (Smarty, it comes out shortly), get the 6 speed auto, the new 3.42 gearing and I could see it surpassing the 5.9L for mileage. Burn me at the stake 5.9L owners, but it is possible.

DPF deletes are easily done and the Smarty is supposed to be a code free way to toss them out. The XRT programmer from HS does this also, I believe, but I've been a Smarty man since throwing the S06 on my 2007 Mega so I am partial to them. It's not illegal in Canada to remove the DPF and in many states they won't know if it's on or not. So it depends where you are, whether they do regular emission testing.

Taller gearing is better for mileage on the torquey Cummins. As I mentioned, taller 3.43 gearing is available as of 2009 HD's so I assume it will carry over.

The new 6 speed auto is fantastic. It shifts much smoother than the weak old 48RE and will also handle more power out of the box. More cogs means better mileage. Most newcomers to diesel should go with the auto unless you are absolutely set on the manual for towing. Autos are faster anyway.

The exhaust brake is great for handling loads... and a fun toy to play with.

Not sure about factory sprayed in bedliners. It may be an option for 2010 but I haven't seen anything to indicate it.

I was a skeptic on the new 6.7's but as it turns out, they are good ole Cummins power underneath all the EPA bullsheet. If you want to see where far more 6.7L discussion takes place, I can PM you the name of another forum and you can read up on them. For example, the new sequential turbo system that combines the factory VGT turbo along with an S400 turns them into monsters. I'm going to cancel bombing out my 07 Mega and trade up for a 2010 Mega Laramie this fall

 

I am going with the 2010 for both the interior and exterior styles as well as small upgrades. I like the fact that the engine and driveline has stayed the same because is it time tested and I know of the problems and can remedy them in my part of the country.
At this point I am really stuck in deciding an auto or manual (I hear higher power with the new autos. Not sure about the fuel eco?) this might be to toughs decision for me right now. Which is stronger, long lasting, and can take the abuse of higher power
Also duelly or no?

Thanks for the insights

 

I've been kicking around the idea of getting a 2010 dually, also.

It seems to me the later 6.7's seem to be reporting better MPG's than from back when they first came out.

Transmission wise, from what I've read the 68RFE holds up fine, but I don't know anyone who is running it with power mods.

I drove one with 4.10's and it turned lower RPM on the freeway than my 03 with 3.73's and the NV5600 did.

If you plan on doing a lot of towing and get the auto, I think the 4.10's would be the ticket.

If you go with the stick shift G56 and add power, I'd think you may as well replace the dual mass flywheel and stock clutch from the get-go.

I suppose the other option would be to get a cab and chassis. The 6 speed auto in those is supposed to be super stout.

 

My neighbor's '08 6.7 manual gets as good of hwy mpgs as my '03 (about 21mpg or so). We go on trips together every now and again and I've verified it.

 

A stock non modified 6.7 getting "hand calculated" 21 mpg is hard to believe.

 

I don't the 68RE is going to hold up well at all behind the 6.7L with aftermarket fueling... new tuners are already smoking them and the hard parts are apparently a bit flimsy.

 

I seen it with my own eyes on a long fishing trip (all highway, driving conservative, but a couple of mt. passes).

Not sure what gearing he has in the rear, must be 3.73

Only "mod" is 285 Toyos, not sure what model.

 

I have seen that sort of mileage numbers too. Oin a recent trip to banff.
I had my 06 5.7 and my buddy was running a stock 6.7 with 30000km on it.
We traded trucks for 2 days while their(he needed my mega cab to get all the kids to the ski hill in one load) and that new 6sd trans is great to drive!!!

 

Everything I've heard about the 6 speed tranny in the 3500 is the Aisian 6sp and not the RE. The Aisian has a RE desination with 5 letters I believe. With a 4:10, Dually, GCVW is 25,400lbs with the crew cab. Its the same tranny in the 4500 and 5500. They may run the RE in the 3/4 ton.

It may have the same warranty as the 4500 3yrs 300,000 miles.

The 3500 can pull more load in combined weight than the 4500 because of the weight differance in the 4500 and 3500. (curb weight) The 3500 is rated at 350hp and 650 ft/lbs, 4500 305hp and 610.

Can't wait to actually see one and dirve it. They need to do something about the emmisions stuff on the engine as we all know to really make it a hit.

I sent dodge an e-mail after the Chicago show and told them, now that you have the platform, lets shock the world and bring a 3/4 ton Suburban like vehicle to the market with the Cummins. GM would have a cow.

Dave

 

The only way you're going to get the Aisin 6 spd auto (if an auto is what you want) is if you go with the Chassis Cab; whether it is the 3500, 4500 or 5500. You will get the Chrysler 68RFE 6 spd auto in the 2500/3500's. The reason you get the Aisin in the CC's is because it has PTO capabilities; whereas, the 68RFE does not.

In the 2500/3500's you will get the 350hp/650tq motor; whereas, the 3500/4500/5500 CC's you get the 305hp/610tq motor. Dodge's theory is that since CC's are targeted at commercial users, commercial users will sacrifice hp for fuel mileage.

I drove an '08 3500 CC (with the Aisin auto) the other day; it had at least as much get up-and-go as my '95 3500 12V auto. Obviously, the ride was stiffer... so I think it is better suited to a flatbed or utility bed setup. I can remember driving an '03 2500 auto with the 305hp.... it rocked! I agree with the statement that the earlier 6.7's seemed to be the one's with less mpg's. I've seen guys reporting better mpg's now.

I'm looking forward to getting a 2010. My dilema is whether to make my truck be all about me and just get a 3500 CC with a flatbed or get a Crew Cab dually to keep the wife happy.

 

You can get that cruising and feel happy.. Then it Regens and it plummets to a measly 12.. Thats when all the crying starts for me.. The Smarty is coming (very soon) and the DPF will be taking a hike as it is not illegal to remove it in Canada under 08 emissions. They can deny me warranty on the DPF if they want.

Digital Bullet.

The lower RPMS with 4.10 comes with the double overdrive in the auto. You have to be careful on the purchase, 3.42 and the double OD and you're looking at 1500 Rpm at highway speed.

 

And most likely your engine warranty as well. At least thats true down here where it is illegal to remove the DPF. Says it in my owners manual but I wonder if there's a different one for your country?

 

I think it depends on your dealer.. You have to be careful.. Once you get the red X, your done. I can understand the warranty voiding thing, thats the risk you run, pay to play.. But if the mileage goes up 4 points for the life of the truck, I can buy a new engine out of pocket.