New to diesels but love Cummins, insight on 2010 3500 dually. Any comments welcome
04-06-2009, 02:52 PM
#16
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I think it depends on your dealer.. You have to be careful.. Once you get the red X, your done. I can understand the warranty voiding thing, thats the risk you run, pay to play.. But if the mileage goes up 4 points for the life of the truck, I can buy a new engine out of pocket.
I would like to think it shouldn’t because of all cons to the dealer to leave it on (parts known to break and whatnot) but dealers are known to use anything they can to get out of warranty work.
Have anyone experienced this in Canada?
06-10-2009, 12:23 AM
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Well heck I just found a benefit to living in canada 
If you run 33's on your jeep I'd imagine you'd want to run 35's on this larger truck. I'd say get the auto and 4.10 gears, with the 35's it will bring you back down to the equivalent of 3.73. I'm not a fan of the G56 manual because they are a bit more sluggish and the gearing isn't as suited for daily driving, more like trailer pulling gearing.
I'd save up a 2-3 grand or so for front end parts like good ball joints, steering brace and possibly a free spin kit later on when they need replacing. At 50,000 miles mine is about to need wheel bearings and ball joints but I don't know if thats the norm.
I'd say research pulling off the dpf and would even venture to say look at the power wagon as well, it's the truck version of the rubicon but you're looking at 20-25% less mpg and probably much lower resale compared to a diesel. With the lighter front weight of the Hemi you might save on front end parts as well.
Hi
I am new to this forum mainly because I don’t currently own at dodge but I am going to purchase the 2010 3500 dually in the “4th quarter” lol my car now is a 2007 jeep jk 4door and it is on its last lag. I am hoping that these are indestructible! Because I have had nothing but problems with my jeep here is was has been replaced so far
3times right U-Joints
Front diff pumpkin
Heat block
A lot of wiring
New transmission just last week
Right hub
Up and lower ball joints
Spark plug back fired and needed new harness
Lights in the first 5000km
I know there is more because when I pulled up the VIN it was 4 pages long and that was before the tranny was replaced...
And it is going back today because I am having steering problems!
So my question is, are these trucks built to last and how have then been to you?
I drive a lot, my jeep has 80,000km on it and it has not even been 2full years. How is the 6.7 on fuel mileage? Also one other thing that I have heard a lot of negative feedback is the emissions junk on them causing problems. How hard or illegal and costly would it be to have it removed and just run the straight back pipe? And is that the only known problem?
Another big question in my mind is what kind of transmission to get. I am after the strongest one I can get out of the factory. I like standard but if that 6speed auto is stronger I would not be opposed to it. I am planning on adding a tuner for about 500hp 900tq. I just want to make sure I build this right from the start. Also if anyone has preferences tuning wise? I know of edge... and I have heard more and more about a smarty but have no idea about it.
Also gear ratio (I have 4.10 in my jeep now with 33”tyres) which is preferred with the 3500? Economy is the big concern (no 5th wheel towing here)
And the last thing is bed liners? Is there a factory spray on? And other aftermarket one
Sorry for the book just want to make sure I get this one right
Thanks guys
Kris
I am new to this forum mainly because I don’t currently own at dodge but I am going to purchase the 2010 3500 dually in the “4th quarter” lol my car now is a 2007 jeep jk 4door and it is on its last lag. I am hoping that these are indestructible! Because I have had nothing but problems with my jeep here is was has been replaced so far
3times right U-Joints
Front diff pumpkin
Heat block
A lot of wiring
New transmission just last week
Right hub
Up and lower ball joints
Spark plug back fired and needed new harness
Lights in the first 5000km
I know there is more because when I pulled up the VIN it was 4 pages long and that was before the tranny was replaced...
And it is going back today because I am having steering problems!
So my question is, are these trucks built to last and how have then been to you?
I drive a lot, my jeep has 80,000km on it and it has not even been 2full years. How is the 6.7 on fuel mileage? Also one other thing that I have heard a lot of negative feedback is the emissions junk on them causing problems. How hard or illegal and costly would it be to have it removed and just run the straight back pipe? And is that the only known problem?
Another big question in my mind is what kind of transmission to get. I am after the strongest one I can get out of the factory. I like standard but if that 6speed auto is stronger I would not be opposed to it. I am planning on adding a tuner for about 500hp 900tq. I just want to make sure I build this right from the start. Also if anyone has preferences tuning wise? I know of edge... and I have heard more and more about a smarty but have no idea about it.
Also gear ratio (I have 4.10 in my jeep now with 33”tyres) which is preferred with the 3500? Economy is the big concern (no 5th wheel towing here)
And the last thing is bed liners? Is there a factory spray on? And other aftermarket one
Sorry for the book just want to make sure I get this one right
Thanks guys
Kris
If you run 33's on your jeep I'd imagine you'd want to run 35's on this larger truck. I'd say get the auto and 4.10 gears, with the 35's it will bring you back down to the equivalent of 3.73. I'm not a fan of the G56 manual because they are a bit more sluggish and the gearing isn't as suited for daily driving, more like trailer pulling gearing.
I'd save up a 2-3 grand or so for front end parts like good ball joints, steering brace and possibly a free spin kit later on when they need replacing. At 50,000 miles mine is about to need wheel bearings and ball joints but I don't know if thats the norm.
I'd say research pulling off the dpf and would even venture to say look at the power wagon as well, it's the truck version of the rubicon but you're looking at 20-25% less mpg and probably much lower resale compared to a diesel. With the lighter front weight of the Hemi you might save on front end parts as well.
07-01-2009, 06:01 AM
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The 3.42 gears work very well pulling a 11k pound gooseneck. I know it has a completely different level of wind resistance, but it is a starting point.
BTW it is my dads truck not mine. 08 2500 qc lb 4x4 G56 3.42
Will
BTW it is my dads truck not mine. 08 2500 qc lb 4x4 G56 3.42
Will
07-01-2009, 09:08 PM
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I thought about waiting for the 2010 with all the changes but instead bought a new '09 3500 just two days ago to replace my '03. I made a spectacular deal and there won't be the same deals on the 2010 trucks. I don't think you will see the 2010's until late fall.
07-17-2009, 10:41 PM
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07-17-2009, 11:19 PM
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Update on towing and MPG
I have just returned from Golden, Colorado, the trip started in Greenville/Spartanburg, SC area the mileage one way is 1,524 miles.
The following information is based on my truck 2009 dodge 3500 dually SXT model 4x4 6 speed manual with a tri-fold bed cover.
Trailer Over the wheel flat bed tilt trailer dual axle’s single wheels.
Cargo: one 2005 Nissan Xterra
One Bedroom set and personal items.
Total weight 19,280 lbs.
AVG MPG 10.5 going at the posted speeds
Return trip cargo one MB C230
Total weight 17,040 lbs
AVG MPG 11.5 going at the posted speeds
Difference in total weight is 2,240 lbs
Same scale was used to weigh the truck and trailer.
Just wanted to provide some real world figures, to the group on towing over the road with less than max weight.
07-20-2009, 05:40 PM
#25
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last weekend i pulled my 40 ft toy hauler loaded and my Jetski behind it. I ended up geting 11.5 running 75mph. I think total weight is close to 24500. If I was to pull all the time or be in the mtns I would go with 4:10 but mine with the 3.73 works great. I=I dont think the 3:42 If available witht he 6 speed auto would be worth a $hit. I am running the off road smarty tune 90 hp with timing. Truck runs ausome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
07-22-2009, 01:25 PM
#27
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You can get that cruising and feel happy.. Then it Regens and it plummets to a measly 12.. Thats when all the crying starts for me..
The Smarty is coming (very soon) and the DPF will be taking a hike as it is not illegal to remove it in Canada under 08 emissions. They can deny me warranty on the DPF if they want.
Digital Bullet.
The lower RPMS with 4.10 comes with the double overdrive in the auto. You have to be careful on the purchase, 3.42 and the double OD and you're looking at 1500 Rpm at highway speed.
The Smarty is coming (very soon) and the DPF will be taking a hike as it is not illegal to remove it in Canada under 08 emissions. They can deny me warranty on the DPF if they want.Digital Bullet.
The lower RPMS with 4.10 comes with the double overdrive in the auto. You have to be careful on the purchase, 3.42 and the double OD and you're looking at 1500 Rpm at highway speed.
Are you saying that running 1,500 RPM at highway speed is not good? The truck in my sig runs 1,500 RPM at 70 mph and I have no problem with torque at that RPM. I look at it as less wear an tear on the engine and components.
John (DH)
07-22-2009, 01:39 PM
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I think 1500 is too low. I hold mine in 5th gear to keep the revs up. It does better when encountering an uphill grade too. I am speaking of when pulling 12,000 lbs.
07-28-2009, 09:31 AM
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I'm thinking of doing the same thing. Not sure if I want to wait for the 2010 or get a killer deal on a new '09.
07-28-2009, 09:44 AM
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Good Luck, let us know.
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