Ok so I have talk to two performance shops in my area and i have got two different answers and i want some input. one shop install 1 day studs out studs in $450. shop two head off ,decked, pressure tested, studs installed a few days in shop new head gasket 1200-1400 plus parts. second shop said id be crazy to just take cover off and install studs. any thoughts

 

Depends how many miles, any problems in the past, has there been a egr delete, The head gaskets on the 6.7 are pretty good all depends on where you are going on this. ( twins ? ) are the studs just and ounce of prevention ? I can see pulling the head if you are going that way with twins!

 

Put it to you this way. I thought long and hard about it. I decided to go with the head off method. New (used) head, fire ringed, decked, lil cleanup work, and a new gasket and studs.

Im only doing it once.

 

It really depends on how much money you want to spent....the right way is to pull the head, decked etc....I spent 4 hours installing them one at a time myself for just the price of parts, just make sure you retorque after about a week...I havent had any problems at all.

 

Lots of variables here. How much boost/power you planning on running. A stock turbo truck, stock nozzles, remove one head bolt and install an ARP stud.

Guys trying to run more than 50-70psi on a stock motor, deck the head, fire ring the head (haisley slang or thick fat oring) and arp studs.

more than 60-100psi, fire ring head/block or oring both correctly, run a copper head gasket

more than 100+psi copper head gasket, arp's (14mm or 9/16in), orings/fire rings, and some voodoo magic beads

 

Hey guys ,just got my head studs in and on the box they say that they are for a 98-02 5.9 AND 24V #247-4202,DID The dealer get me the wrong one's or will this work on my 2011.thanks

 

The 4202's are currently holding down my Holmen head on my '11

Will work perfectly fine for ya.

 

Right on, thanks alot waited along time for these,putting in tomorrow.Will get too play a little harder.

 

so you can actually remove one stock bolt at a time, turn a stud in, torque it down, and move to the next until they are all done? you dont need to totally remove the head and install an new gasket? i like the comment that was made about "doing it once and never touching it again", but you also have to take into account what i want to do with my 6.7. i wont be looking to set and speed records or have a drag truck....i want to delete it, add a little HP from the minimaxx, and not have to worry about blowing the head gasket when pulling my 5th wheel or going through the mountains with an enclosed snowmobile trailer. or even run it on a "hot" tune and run WOT from 0-80 mph with no ill effects.

i dont know if i am worrying too much about it or not, but i want a reliable engine. if i am better off to leave it stock i will, but this is my first diesel and im excited to tune it (and tune it right with the appropriate supporting mods)

 

Just did a head install yesterday, took seven hours to complete, it was more of a beer/pizza truck wrenchin party than anything.

Start in the middle of the head (cylinders #3), remove one bolt only, install new head stud. Re-torque the head stud.

Do at least three torque checks, bumping up the torque. We started at 125 ft*lbs, 130, final 135.

Plan on re-lashing the valves, sure worked out nice. Smoothen out the idle and quieten the engine down pretty nicely. We lashed the valves at 10thou intake and 20thouexhaust.

The primary color goes towards the front of the truck, non-primary color goes toward the firewall for the injector wiring harness.

 

Well got the head studs in now ,now i can play with the '' hot'' setting on my mini max.ordering fass hd fuel/air separation system on monday and the stock clutch is going to stay right were it is until it go's,so far i have'nt had a problem with it.My son got 200,000 kms.on his 04 and he had alot of mods done to his before it went,so i'm going to see how many kms. i will get before i get a new south bend dual disk clutch.

 

dodgebre3500, were did you put the longer studs in at? Typically we put those on the exhaust side outside of valve cover. Were did you adjust the injector gridle? I just did some quick die grind on the hold down bolt closest to the firewall. I'll take pictures next time. Took 5 seconds on both sides of the gridle (up/down).

 

I had the dealer put them in ,i had to work