ok ,
i got the head back today and im puttin her back on in the am. i will be putting in arp studs. can someone give me some guidence on how to do these as far as what to tourque, where to start in the head, stuff like that. pretty much i dont know a thing about these. a rundown on the correct installaqtion would help out greatly. thanks in advance

 

Have you chased the threads in the block? It helps to get all the studs the same length. I used the torque sequence that in the service manual. Used the ARP lube. I started at 40 in*lbs and slowly worked my way up to 96 in*lbs. I would after that heat the motor up and re-torque the head again, just to make sure. Some guys just do a line torque. You can back one off at a time and slowly re-torque it back up 96 in*lbs. PDR put a paint mark on mine so you can tell if the stud is still moving. It should stop turning after servel re-torques. You should also reset your valves after each re-torque. The longer studs go in the passager side. I had to cut a corner off my valve cover to get everything to seal-up right.

 

Psst... 96 foot lbs. We've actually been running them up to 122 ftlb. They hold well with a single retorque after 2 heat cycles and a retorque in 6 months.

brnandon.

 

psst... your name is spelled brandon

 

psst. That's funny.

 

i was thinkin 50lbs then back off one by one then go to 96lbs, back off one by one again then hold my breath and go to 120lbs. does that sound good?

 

Start in the middle and spiral your way out when you tourque them.

 

Like Matt said, start in the middle. Go in a spiral and tighten all to 50, then all to 75, then recheck all to 75 to make sure you didn't miss any, then all to 96, then all to 122. Each step will turn the nut roughly 1/4 turn. Here's the order from the front of the block to the back:

radiator
23 24
19 20
15 16
11 12
7 8
3 4
1 2
5 6
9 10
13 14
17 18
21 22
25 26
firewall

psst... You're slow. :-P

brandon.

 

psst... your truck is slower haha

 

What about clearance. I read a while back that people were haveing clearance issues with the studs on the rocker arms.

 

Only on 12 valves. Since the original poster didn't tell what truck he had, I assumed either a 24v or common rail.

brnaodn.

 

its an 02 24 valve. i put the studs in according to joefarmer's post. i started at 50 . backed off. went to 96 backed off then went to 127. (i thought the wrench was set at 122 but later found out it wasnt). i let her sit over night and retourqed again in case the gasket compressed wich it did. im gonna do 2 heat cycles and retourque again. do i need to back the nuts off or can i just tourque them down from where there at?. also after my next retourque how long till i need to do it again? thanks

 

I'm still re-torquing. Its easier to re-torque than put in another gasket. Once you get to the point that your not getting any more change, I guess your done. I'm still not there. PDR told me that I can line torque the head. This mean you can back off the nut on one only stud. Then re-torque them back up. I'm scared to run them up to 125ft*lbs and risk breaking a stud or worse pulling threads out of the block. I like to re-torque when the truck is warmed up. You seem to get more change and a better squishness of the gasket and o-ring. I guess our torque wretches up here aren't as big as Brandon's. I must had a beer or to in me during that original post. You should also reset your valves after a re-torque.

 

It's all good Mike! I did forget the part about hte warm re-torque. Watch the torque spec on the warm re-torque since it's easy to go over on that one. We typically don't back them off between the initial tq sequence, just all to 50, all to 75, check 75, all to 96, all to 122. It helps to have a second person watching to make sure you've got them all.

brnadon.

 

Brandon, what kinda of killer injection pump you put in that tricked out engine of yours. One day your gonna have to give us the parts break down on that rig of yours. Wink wink.