In-flight Reset....again
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From: Somewhere between Here & There Over the Hill
In-flight Reset....again
On my way home from work this morning, communication was lost again...twice...less than a mile apart. Pulled codes on BM and reset both times. Is this something I should be concerned with now (posted same issue around December last year)? Anything I can do to keep it from happening again?
I'm heading to AZ at the end of the month to move my cousin to New Mexico, not sure how much stuff she has to move but I know I can haul about 11,000 pounds in my trailer and don't want this to happen when I'm on the road. Any help is appreciated.
U0141 (listed 2x the second time it happened)
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I'm heading to AZ at the end of the month to move my cousin to New Mexico, not sure how much stuff she has to move but I know I can haul about 11,000 pounds in my trailer and don't want this to happen when I'm on the road. Any help is appreciated.
U0141 (listed 2x the second time it happened)
U0001
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From: Somewhere between Here & There Over the Hill
One thing I forgot to mention that has never happened before in the past, thus the reason I am slightly concerned: the first indication that something was wrong was the 4wd service indicator light came on along with a clunk, then everything started flashing...it was almost as if whatever happened tried to engage 4wd...i pulled over and nothing seemed out of the ordinary underneath. The exact same thing happened the second time as well. I have driven about 80 miles now and everything is normal.
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I do know that inflight resets are bad bad bad.
I don't have much for you but try returning the truck to stock and remove the black max as they have not been as reliable as the mini. Also try the H&S web site forums for info on the Black Max to see if anyone else is having similar problems. You don't have a CB or COM radio do you? I assume you have the rotary **** style of 4X4 selector and it's an Auto trans. A power bump from a surge or short maybe something to look for if the Black max is not the culprit. Check the battery terminals.
I don't have much for you but try returning the truck to stock and remove the black max as they have not been as reliable as the mini. Also try the H&S web site forums for info on the Black Max to see if anyone else is having similar problems. You don't have a CB or COM radio do you? I assume you have the rotary **** style of 4X4 selector and it's an Auto trans. A power bump from a surge or short maybe something to look for if the Black max is not the culprit. Check the battery terminals.
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From: Somewhere between Here & There Over the Hill
We have to sometimes resort to an inflight (literally-in flight) reset with the job I have--and yes, that can be a bad thing if not done correctly...
Well, I posted on H&S's forum--waiting to see what they say. I don't have a CB or COM radio. I know from my first post about this issue, folks have mentioned high-powered radios as being the culprit.
The battery terminals are as clean as the day i bought the truck. The only wiring I have done was for the BM to a fuse in the TIPM...the wire is fine.
Yes, I do have the rotary **** and auto trans...although, I have been researching for a couple months to do a manual swap along with the manual shift transfer case....maybe I should start saving
Well, I posted on H&S's forum--waiting to see what they say. I don't have a CB or COM radio. I know from my first post about this issue, folks have mentioned high-powered radios as being the culprit.
The battery terminals are as clean as the day i bought the truck. The only wiring I have done was for the BM to a fuse in the TIPM...the wire is fine.
Yes, I do have the rotary **** and auto trans...although, I have been researching for a couple months to do a manual swap along with the manual shift transfer case....maybe I should start saving
I've bumped the ignition key with my right knee and shut the truck off twice now, once in heavy traffic. It doesn't take much, just my knee brushing the house key hanging from the key chain will do it. Sounds like you might have bigger issues though.
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From: Somewhere between Here & There Over the Hill
Fortunately my knees don't quite reach the key and I don't leave extra keys hanging on it. I heard there may have been a recall or maybe a TSB for the fobik module, but I really haven't had problems with it...other than last summer when I assumed it got so hot in the cab that it was causing comm issues between the fobik and the module itself--when I would start it, it would shut right off...after leaving the doors open/windows down for a couple minutes...it started with no issues...I haven't had this problem since my exhaust and related components were stolen in the middle of the night
I hope my issues are really isolated...now that i think about it, when I pulled over to make sure nothing serious happened, a trucker did go by me in the same direction a couple minutes after I stopped...not sure if that is related or not
I'm half tempted that if this is something that requires a visit to the dealer--I'll just buy a CARDAQ-Plus or Mongoose from Drew Technologies and troubleshoot that way. Since I am at nearly 45K miles and deleted, I don't want to risk losing my extended warranty--since as long as I don't ever use it, I get all of the nearly $3k back I paid for it

I hope my issues are really isolated...now that i think about it, when I pulled over to make sure nothing serious happened, a trucker did go by me in the same direction a couple minutes after I stopped...not sure if that is related or not

I'm half tempted that if this is something that requires a visit to the dealer--I'll just buy a CARDAQ-Plus or Mongoose from Drew Technologies and troubleshoot that way. Since I am at nearly 45K miles and deleted, I don't want to risk losing my extended warranty--since as long as I don't ever use it, I get all of the nearly $3k back I paid for it
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From: Somewhere between Here & There Over the Hill
Well, I decided to shoot Drew Technologies an email to inquire about their tools - they replied back within an hour with an answer. As far as their tools go, the only thing Chrysler allows their equipment to access to is the J2534 flashing of emissions modules (engine and transmission) from 1996+ and restrict dealer-level diagnostics.
So that shot my idea of troubleshooting out of the water - anyone have any idea what other company out there allows complete diagnostics of Chrysler vehicles without having to purchase a StarScan (too expensive)?
So that shot my idea of troubleshooting out of the water - anyone have any idea what other company out there allows complete diagnostics of Chrysler vehicles without having to purchase a StarScan (too expensive)?
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From: Somewhere between Here & There Over the Hill
Well...repeat again this morning...on the way home from work. Anyone know of delete friendly dealers near las vegas? I'm about to give in and take it in...i did purchase the maximum care extended warranty so hopefully there wouldn't be issues other than paying the deductible...i was really hoping to avoid this so I can get my money back at the end of the warranty if I never used it
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You haven't said if you have tried removing the Black max and returning to stock, if you haven't tried this I would suggest it before taking the truck anywhere.
Oops I see you have had your exhaust and some other components "stolen" that changes things, I would return the truck to stock then reload the black max and try it, then on Monday or Tuesday call H&S and talk with them they have excellent customer service and may be able to help you.
Oops I see you have had your exhaust and some other components "stolen" that changes things, I would return the truck to stock then reload the black max and try it, then on Monday or Tuesday call H&S and talk with them they have excellent customer service and may be able to help you.
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From: Somewhere between Here & There Over the Hill
I didn't return to stock...but I did reload the tune last night. Do you think I should return to stock then reload?
I didn't go to work last night either and probably won't for the next few days, so I'm not sure if that worked, since it seems to only happen on my way home.
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I didn't go to work last night either and probably won't for the next few days, so I'm not sure if that worked, since it seems to only happen on my way home.
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If it were me I would try everything before taking it anywhere. I would definitely return to stock but not drive it then reload. You may have a corrupted file somewhere and going through the procedure of returning to stock may be all that it needs.
From what I hear some of the programmers are causing communication issues with the newer trucks.
This is causing the warning indicaters to come on and off, and also leading to drivability issues.
I dont know what your fix is other then see if H&S can help you out.
This is causing the warning indicaters to come on and off, and also leading to drivability issues.
I dont know what your fix is other then see if H&S can help you out.
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From: Somewhere between Here & There Over the Hill
That's a good point Busboy! I'll try to get out and do that before I go back to work.
03 ant, I have heard the same...I'll try getting around tomorrow or Tuesday to return to stock, reload and give HS a call.
Thanks for the help so far!
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03 ant, I have heard the same...I'll try getting around tomorrow or Tuesday to return to stock, reload and give HS a call.
Thanks for the help so far!
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From: Somewhere between Here & There Over the Hill
So I just wanted to update on this TIPM issue I was having. I returned to stock and reprogrammed. The first two times I went somewhere, shut down the truck and restarted, the issue came back each time. After clearing the DTC's I haven't had any problems since. I don't know how "sealed" these units are from the bottom, but I lifted the tipm up a little and re-seated it as well, so I don't know if this did the trick or if the problem just mysteriously went away. Anyhow, just wanted to provide an update and than you all for the advice and help.
Oh! One other thing I did: I built a nifty aluminum bracket and relocated the BM up to the approx. location of where it would be using the pillar mount--works really good and only cost me about 15 bucks. Before, after I removed the center console for the center seat, I relocated it to the left side of the instrument cluster bezel since I couldn't get it to stick anywhere else because of the "curvatures" and no flat spots on the dash where I wanted it. --So far, so good! Thanks everyone!
Oh! One other thing I did: I built a nifty aluminum bracket and relocated the BM up to the approx. location of where it would be using the pillar mount--works really good and only cost me about 15 bucks. Before, after I removed the center console for the center seat, I relocated it to the left side of the instrument cluster bezel since I couldn't get it to stick anywhere else because of the "curvatures" and no flat spots on the dash where I wanted it. --So far, so good! Thanks everyone!
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