It appears that the dealer that I purchased my 2012 CTD Ram from had changed the oil. There is less than 500km on the engine since the oil change. I checked the level today and found that the level is well up over the Safe section on the dipstick. Has anyone experienced this before and is there a procedure I can follow to drain out a couple of litres (or quarts) to get it back to a lower level. I'd like to get it at least to cover the SA portion of SAFE. Hopefully someone has done this kind of thing before and can help.

 

Wonder if anyone has tried to suck it up the dipstick tube with a big syringe* and some fuel line? But first....What did the dealer say? If you think they overfilled it then take it back. You paid good money to have them change the oil (too good in my opinion, that's why I do mine myself), have them fix it. Second, these trucks "make oil", especially when idling in the cold. It's my understanding raw diesel gets into the oil pan from the 4th injection event. Is the oil on the dip stick kind of two-tone and runny (and smells faintly like diesel)? A delete will prevent this from happening. But at only ~300 miles after an oil change? I dunno- seems like it takes a couple of thousand miles for it to start climbing the dipstick. I guess engine hours would be a better measurement though.

*I have one I bought at an auto parts store that's marked for mixing 2-stroke oil. Works great for sucking out stuff that I put to much of in.

 

The trouble is that this vehicle was bought from a used car dealer that is now about 200 km from here. So I am not about to take it back there. Also I am not at home and have a very long drive ahead of me in the opposite direction of where the truck was bought. I'll try to drain. Perhaps a Fumoto valve could be in my future, but I could be more careful in performing oil changes in the future and start with adding 10.5L and top up from there as needed.

 

You can get a vacuum sucker unit from most marine supply units which comes with a variety of small tubes designed to go down the dipstick.
Give a couple pumps on the handle, it builds vacuum and sucks the oil out.
The drawback for a one time use is it will cost 40-50 bucks.
Del

 

OK, the job is done. It was +1 C (about 34 F) here today and the oil came out slow enough with holding the oil plug in place and took out about 2 quarts. Wearing disposable neoprene gloves helps a lot and keeps this black oil off the skin. The engine dipstick with oil removed now shows level near the top end of the Safe zone. I'll check it after my 1000+ mile drive and weekly thereafter and watch what happens and see if it does gain with this wonderful 6.7L CTD emission control system. If any of you are using the Fumoto valve, what is your experience? What is the failure rate on these? Not sure if I'd prefer that over a plug.

 

Before deleting my son was getting 1500KM on his 2011, that's fifteen hundred km between oil change messages, the dealer told him to ignore the messages and change at the correct interval. At 1500km the oil was almost overflowing and severely diluted with fuel, the dealer did an injector check and even put the truck on a dyno and said things were fine. I removed the intake manifold only to find it almost completely plugged with carbon ***** and raw fuel running back down the boost tube collecting at the outlet to the pre cooler. After deleting he was running 25,000km oil and filter changes using full synthetic 5W40 oil and extended drain filters, his oil had zero dilution and stayed cleaner than a gas engine.

 

Busboy, this is very interesting and I am wondering if all these engines behave similarly, or it may be because of operating in the cold north country that is returning more. Seems that I will really have to watch what's going on here. I'll be driving about 950 km January 2 in temperatures of about -20C. Even my old 12 Valve did not run very hot on days like this, so the new 6.7 might just return more exhaust gas to keep temperatures up. Sounds like in the end deleting is the way to go. Did your son do this while the truck was still under warranty? If so, how do the dealers look as such modifications and future warranty claims?

 

Been using Fumoto valves on every car I've owned for the last 20 years, and will continue to do so for any car I buy in the future.

 

After seeing the condition of my sons truck at I think was 30,000km I also deleted my 2011 at about 7500km, of course the warranty is toast but we are not warranty kind of people. We both use the winter front which I think is a must have for up here. His 2013 engine is now operating well in stock form but it does have DEF which the 2011/12 does not have. When we first tried to get some of the oil out of his 2011 engine I tried using my vacuum extractor but the length of tube required to get down the dip stick hole then back down to the floor was too long, I didn't have enough, beside if the oil is diluted that bad it needs a change anyway.

 

Mine always registers overfull with a 12 qt oil refill. It has since new. In the course of 5k it drops into the safe area.
The Fumoto valve works great. I use the horizontal outlet model.

 

Thanks for the info guys. I'll see how my upcoming trips go between Kingston and Home and will post again if there are problems.

 

Just an update. My oil changes have now been reduced to adding 10.5 Liters (about 11 quarts) and this takes the level up halfway into the Safe section. Prior to that I started with 12 Liters (from the owner's manual - too much, then reduced it to 11 which took it to the top of the Safe section. I will monitor oil level monthly from here on to make sure it doesn't drop below Safe.