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2008 5500 "Service truck"Exhaust filter full"

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Old Jul 13, 2008 | 10:44 PM
  #1  
everflo's Avatar
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2008 5500 "Service truck"Exhaust filter full"

I have about 6500Kms on my new service truck. It is a 2008 5500 6 speed manual with 4.44 rear. I have a aluminum service body and V-mac air compressor installed. The truck does idle for 8-12 hours a day. When the air system is turned on and the demand for air is heavy the exhaust filter is able to remain clear. When the air compressor demand is low the DPF will plug up in about 6 hours. The filter has finally filled 100% and the overhead consol reads "power reduced see dealer".
This truck must idle alot in order to keep warm in -35"'C winter weather.\
I am happy with the truck on the whole.
I am seeking a long term fix for the DPF plugging problem.
Others in this area are just removing the filter and adding chips. I am told that fuel econ is about 18MPG post mod.
I would prefer to remain 100% stock but if the filter keeps plugging and Mopar cannot fix the unit I will have no choice but to remove the filter in order to remain working.\
Any one had any success with extended idling situation with the factory situation.
The only other thing I would change on the option list would be to not order the Super Heavy duty front spring package. The unit runs very rough off road .
It also follows the highway ridges at highway speed. I believe the later is from incorrect wheel alighnment. I have not had a wheel alighnment. I am asuming that with different chassis weights the alignment will change?
Any thoughts?
Thank you.2008 5500 "Service truck"Exhaust filter full"-img_1491.jpg

2008 5500 "Service truck"Exhaust filter full"-img_1492.jpg
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Old Jul 13, 2008 | 10:59 PM
  #2  
Cummins610's Avatar
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From: Alberta
It will always do it unless you remove the DPF,which is easy to do on a C&C, oh btw since we are in Canada we can talk about DFP delete's all we want.
You only other option is to drive it on the highway for about 45 min a day
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Old Jul 14, 2008 | 10:03 AM
  #3  
whereswaldo250's Avatar
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From: Scottsdale, AZ
What a great looking truck! I really want one now. Nice to see one with a manual trans, I have not seen to many.
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Old Jul 14, 2008 | 03:05 PM
  #4  
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From: The Gas Patch
Originally Posted by everflo
I have about 6500Kms on my new service truck. It is a 2008 5500 6 speed manual with 4.44 rear. I have a aluminum service body and V-mac air compressor installed. The truck does idle for 8-12 hours a day. When the air system is turned on and the demand for air is heavy the exhaust filter is able to remain clear. When the air compressor demand is low the DPF will plug up in about 6 hours. The filter has finally filled 100% and the overhead consol reads "power reduced see dealer".
This truck must idle alot in order to keep warm in -35"'C winter weather.\
I am happy with the truck on the whole.
I am seeking a long term fix for the DPF plugging problem.
Others in this area are just removing the filter and adding chips. I am told that fuel econ is about 18MPG post mod.
I would prefer to remain 100% stock but if the filter keeps plugging and Mopar cannot fix the unit I will have no choice but to remove the filter in order to remain working.\
Any one had any success with extended idling situation with the factory situation.
The only other thing I would change on the option list would be to not order the Super Heavy duty front spring package. The unit runs very rough off road .
It also follows the highway ridges at highway speed. I believe the later is from incorrect wheel alighnment. I have not had a wheel alighnment. I am asuming that with different chassis weights the alignment will change?
Any thoughts?
Thank you.Attachment 23043

Attachment 23044
Ev,

When you idle your engine do you kick on the high idle feature to bring the rpm above 1000 ?

What is your loaded weight?? My Sterling rides a bit rough as well.. Fill out your sig line for future reference as well. It saves having to type it in every time..
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Old Jul 14, 2008 | 03:19 PM
  #5  
Diesel Doc's Avatar
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From: Oak Hills CA- Elizabeth City NC
yes alignment changes some with weight the place I used to work had service trucks with 300 galon fuel tanks on the back for the equipment operators when we would get a new chassis we would put the body on fill it with about 200gallons and take it to get it aligned it wasn't ever off much but it was off.
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Old Jul 14, 2008 | 10:16 PM
  #6  
everflo's Avatar
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loaded weights axle weights f
front 2890kg/6371lbs
rear4320kg/9524lbs

The air comp is on all day and it controls the engine rpm, from a min of 1100 to a max 2000rpm depending on demand of air
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Old Jul 15, 2008 | 06:06 AM
  #7  
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everflo, nice truck, I will be building a similar truck soon. If you read back on member "EB"'s posts he had a similar issue with his chassis. The dealer was useing a 2500/3500 pickup diagnosis instead of chassis cab diagnosis witch is different. Anyway, they found that a dpf sensor was bad I believe. You would have to go back and read. His truck would not regen on its own, even though you idle alot, I would have to bet that the compressor will put enough emgine load if not more than most road trucks, which should be enough to keep that dpf clean. You could just put on a timed bleed off on your tank, so that the truck can run the compressor and load the engine from time to time. Just a thought. That would save you from losing any warranty that you may lose when removing this emmisions junk. High idle would be another idea as it should keep the temps in a reasonable range.
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Old Oct 21, 2008 | 09:41 PM
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neveragain's Avatar
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From: Fort St John BC Canada
Keeping an engine warm

Havn't heard anyone mention about reducing the air flow throught the rad? You don't need all that cold air throught the engine. What I do is hang baler belting infront of the rad. I use 500 lb string tied between the two supports for the hood with 5 holes in the baler belting to vary the overlap on the belts. You should have at least 8 " of open space for air to flow. Works to cut the air flow throught my engine that doesnt' burn enought fuel to keep me up with everyone else! As well years ago I took a 24x24" mud flap and cut it to fit between the engine frame rails.
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