setting up new adjustable xrf ball joints
#1
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setting up new adjustable xrf ball joints
So I purchased a set of upper and lower xrf ball joints, upper being adjustable. Since I am doing this in my garage I don't have access to an alignment machine to properly adjust camber with the new uppers.I am also installing a 2 " lift for the front springs ,2" dropped pitman arm, longer sway bar links, and 35" tires. I plan on taking the truck for an alignment after all is said and done ,but is there a reference point I can start with for the adjustable uppers so i can drive 20 miles to the alignment shop without adverse wear or handling. Thanks Wayne
#2
There is really no need to adjust camber on a solid axle truck unless you already have some sort of alignment issue from a bent frame or axle, and then you are better off getting the frame and axle aligned properly. Many people who have installed adjudstable ball joints on these trucks regret it instantly as they tend to cause the truck to wander and track incorrectly. If you do a google search on "dodge ram 4x4 adjustable ball-points" you can read what I am talking about. My advice would be to return the XRF adjustables…there is NOT necessarily great feedback on the XRF balljoints anyways despite the fact that they are supposed to be a better designed ballljoint.
Of course if you can afford them, either the Dyna Trac or Carli balljoints are pretty much bulletproof on these trucks, but some people have problems spending that kind of coin on balljoints. The Raybestos "professional" line have a more then decent rep and are more in cost line with other balljoints.
Of course if you can afford them, either the Dyna Trac or Carli balljoints are pretty much bulletproof on these trucks, but some people have problems spending that kind of coin on balljoints. The Raybestos "professional" line have a more then decent rep and are more in cost line with other balljoints.
#3
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I bought the 4 joints as a set. For what I bought the set for it's not cost effective to send them back. Plan b might be go and buy some different uppers and scrap the adjustables,but I don't have the heart to do that. I guess I'll educate myself on alignment .
#4
I am guessing that my advice is NOT what anyone would want to hear if they already have the parts, but please DO a quick search on XRF and on moog adjustable ball join ta and educate yourself that way BEFORE you install them….NOT saying that it can't be done right, but have read more then several threads about problem after using adjustable BJ in these trucks.
#5
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Holy Crap! I just finished installing the dr. side ball joints. After getting the knuckle semi seated on the joints,it does not turn easily. Understatement ,if I torqued them properly I doubt the power steering would over come the friction. I screwed around with the adjustment and doesn't look like there is a sweet spot. Any suggestions other than "I told you so !".Oh yeah there is buy different ones as an option
#6
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After a close inspection it looks like the problem is the uppers have too much adjustment built in,the eccentric they revolve on won't let you get anywhere near a stock spec. I think a truck would have to have some serious issues to use them (like hit by a train or driven off a mtn.) Say seafish, who carries Raybestos. Thanks Wayne
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#8
Wayne, sorry to hear about your problems….A quick google search shows that Carquest carries Raybestos professional, even Amazon carries some of them, though you will need to know the part # to order from Amazon.
Probaly many other places do to, maybe even Napa??
Sorry I do not know the part#….though you might be able to glean some info form this thread, though it looks like it just turned into a pissing contest--
Ball joints - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
Probaly many other places do to, maybe even Napa??
Sorry I do not know the part#….though you might be able to glean some info form this thread, though it looks like it just turned into a pissing contest--
Ball joints - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
#9
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I agree with seafish regarding his recommendations. Just so you are aware,some ball joint companies manufacture products with knurls or splines which tend to open up the axle housing some. When the time comes to replace them again, it becomes a challenge to seat the new ball joint properly. This is important when you are replacing them again. For example, if you remove the stock ball joints and replace them with the more economical knurled joints. Then once the time comes to replace those again, which is very likely. In addition, when the time comes to replace those failed knurled joints,the replacements may slip in too easily and rotate in the axle housing. Luckily, Dynatrac offers a knurled ball joint for the over-sized orifice in order to repair the damage done to the C shaft. The people that eventually become tired of replacing or paying the labor costs associated with replacement tend to go this route.
If you are replacing factory ball joints I recommend replacing them with smooth surfaced quality ball joints. As you are aware, this takes a substantial amount of time and effort to install ball joints. I often see on the forums cases where people tend to place too much emphasis on the cost of products today, but often fail to place a value on product quality and their own time. Best of luck with the replacement!
If you are replacing factory ball joints I recommend replacing them with smooth surfaced quality ball joints. As you are aware, this takes a substantial amount of time and effort to install ball joints. I often see on the forums cases where people tend to place too much emphasis on the cost of products today, but often fail to place a value on product quality and their own time. Best of luck with the replacement!
#10
HEY WAYNE,
check it out, someone just posted in that forum I linked to the Raybestos Professional BJ part#'s for his 2006 4x4 that he bought on…………wait for it…………..AMAZON--
Here is the quote--
The Raybestos part numbers for the Pro Grade BJ for my truck were:
505-1311 and 500-1117
I purchased them on Amazon about two years ago and they seem to be of very nice quality (no, they aren't as nice as Carli or DynaTrac ) but seem to be doing the intended job just fine for me. Time will tell how long they last of course...so far I have around 30k on them. Cost for all 4 ball joints around $240 (plus installation).
NO, I did not install them myself. No desire to do this particular job myself; kudos to those who do, but I know my limitations!
>>BE SURE TO FOLLOW PROPER INSTALLATION AND TORQUING SEQUENCE WHOEVER DOES THE INSTALL.
__________________
check it out, someone just posted in that forum I linked to the Raybestos Professional BJ part#'s for his 2006 4x4 that he bought on…………wait for it…………..AMAZON--
Here is the quote--
The Raybestos part numbers for the Pro Grade BJ for my truck were:
505-1311 and 500-1117
I purchased them on Amazon about two years ago and they seem to be of very nice quality (no, they aren't as nice as Carli or DynaTrac ) but seem to be doing the intended job just fine for me. Time will tell how long they last of course...so far I have around 30k on them. Cost for all 4 ball joints around $240 (plus installation).
NO, I did not install them myself. No desire to do this particular job myself; kudos to those who do, but I know my limitations!
>>BE SURE TO FOLLOW PROPER INSTALLATION AND TORQUING SEQUENCE WHOEVER DOES THE INSTALL.
__________________
#11
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Thread Starter
Thank Seafish. I found the part number this morning but could not find a local distributor,and need the truck asap. I phoned the xrf office and they were not helpful. I went with napa which supplied me with dana(not related to dana spicer). Apparently their premo joint the desk guy said and brought out this case with two different joints and said blah,blah,blaw. Just read the Dr. post,uppers and lowers are serrated. Too many options equals too many poor choices on my behalf. I'll put it together for now. BTW raybestos offers 500-1117 and 500-117b .One is premium,one is service grade
#12
Good tip on the part numbers!! You can see from the pics that there is a big difference in quality between the service vs professional balljoints,
ALso glad that you were able to find something to use…that being said, do you guys have Amazon Prime up there. With Amazon Prime, two day shipping is free, and 1 day shipping is only 3.99 per parcel at least in the US.
ALso glad that you were able to find something to use…that being said, do you guys have Amazon Prime up there. With Amazon Prime, two day shipping is free, and 1 day shipping is only 3.99 per parcel at least in the US.
#13
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I tried amazon .ca. Itlooks like they aren't availble in Canada, so to get them out of the U.S.they would be here later next week. Next time I'll order in advance ( have 03and 04 ).I 'll let you know how the install goes and an update.Thanks guys
#14
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Thread Starter
For anybody following and thinkingof doing their own BJs, the advice I recieved from these 2 guys is spot on. I don't know how anybody could install adjustable uppers unless you drove over a landmine.Once the knuckle is seated it will not turn and you will pull the stud out of a ball joint trying to do so,(STAY AWAY FROM ADJUSTABLES). With regards to splined bjs I'll tell you what I noticed. Smooth or unsplined joints can be installed by leaving them in your freezer,heat the knuckle to about 250 degrees and they slide right in and tap with a hammer to make sure thet are properly seated. Splined joints in my expeirence will not go with some brute force which might cause early failure. All splined joints are at least .007 bigger in diam. ,that's alot of interference fit,using the OTC bj press,freezing joint and warm knuckle,I just about pulled the truck off the jack stands trying to tighten the press. I put it in panick mode overheated the joint and melted the seal.I suspect some shops and shadetree mechanics do some intresting things to get them in. BTW when installing the boot on the bottom joint,take a real good look to make sure it is seated properly or risk an early failure. IMHO stay away from splined joints unless you know something I don't for 2 reasons ,hard intall ,and oversize hole end result. Hope my trials and tribulations help future decisions on selection of parts .
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