That is very good info and very good advice. One last question from me before I do this is someone above mentioned the Zerex heavy duty is Hoat. Which one would be better the regular or heavy duty, or is it just marketing?

The Zerex Extreme Heavy Duty coolants are formulated for heavy-duty applications; ie(over the road semi-trucks and earthmoving equipment) with SCAs (supplemental coolant additives) specific to their prescribed diesel engines and applications, and will help protect engines from corrosion, hard-water deposits, foam and other concerns which can compromise their cooling systems. The HD formulations do not list the Chrysler spec on their data sheets. IMO...You would be better served by using the"reguar" Zerex G-05 HOAT (gold bottle).

I went to Autozone to grab some touchup paint (because that idiot that hit my truck). While I was there figured I would look for some Zerex G05, but thye dont sell it. They guy there was trying to tell me that you can use any of theres because it's all the same stuff. I was like umm, no thanks. I'll just go to Napa.

Thanks Dr. for all the info. Looks like I will be heading to Napa to buy the Zerex. This is a great thread for antifreeze facts.

I called my local Napa to see if they have Zerex G 05 in both the 50/50 mix and the concentrated version. This one has both. 50/50 is $7.49 and the other is $10.79.

Is it 7 or 7.5 gallons total?

So, you'll need about 8 gallons of pre-mix 50/50 ($60) or 4 gallons of concentrate A/F ($43.16) plus 4 gallons distilled water ($?)

I just grabbed a gallon of the gold bottle non 50/50 and added some distilled water. You can get the water for near nothing at walmart.

Drizz,

The plastic petcock your talking about is on the bottom driver side of the rad right? Onec you open that up, all your going to get out is the rad fluid. what can you do to get the rest of it out and drain all the old fluid out?

Then you should just flush it. I picked up 2 bottles of Prestone Rad. Flush to help loosen up sediment and junk. You're suppose to cycle that through it for 10 minutes or so, then drain and refill with just water, then drain again. Then fill with new coolant.

IS that stuff ok to run through the system or is there draw backs to it? Also that still leaves some water in the system...

When you did it, did you use distilled to run with it? And it took you two bottles right?

I haven't done it yet. Should be doing it tomorrow. Not worried about a little water in it. I plan on getting the concentrate and going greater than 50/50. Maybe like 4 gallons of fluid and 3 gallons of water which brings it to about 57%. That's still cheaper than getting 7 gallons of 50/50 fluid.

I plan on doing 5 bottles G-05 and the rest distilled once I do mine.

For flushing are you going to use distilled or tap?

Yes, Bottom driver side. Are you sure that you need to get it all out of the block? You have an 06, with less than 100k on it right? That means that you are performing the change out well ahead of the recommended 5 year 100k mark, which is a good practice. I would bet that your radiator looks clean inside;however, if you feel that it's necessary,you could fill the radiator back up with distilled water,start the truck and run the heater to circulate the water through the heater core. Once it's warm, park the truck on a downward slope so the engine will be angled forward. shut it down and drain the system again. This should help get more of the water out.

The companies seem to recommend keeping your fluid between 50-70%. At 5 gallons of concentrate, you're on the upper end of that. 5/7 = 71%. Just FYI.

Drizz,

I am well ahead of my time. I am just trying to get fresh fluids because my truck sat for a while when I was deployed. I probly don't need to get all of the fluid out, just one of those things that is good to know I guess.

Dirt,

Thanks for pointing that out. I didnt even really think about that putting me over the 70% threshhold. If you drain only the rad. It shouldn't take 4 gallons thought should it?