Radiator flush
 

How often do you guys flush your Rad? Is it something that worth doing your self or would you just take it and have it done?

I drain the radiator and clean out the overflow bottle once a year. Then I refill the system with a mix of Zerex G05 Hoat coolant and distilled water. This way I am replenishing my coolant additives on a constant basis,therfore eliminating the need to flush the system entirely.

Did you have to remove the bottle to clean it out or is there a plug on the bottom?

How do you drain the system? And how much comes out?

I remove the bottle to clean it up. I believe that there is one screw that secures it. There are also plastic protrusions on the bottle that rest on the radiator and the frame if I am not mistaken. I use a long bottle brush to clean the inside out.

I drain it by unscrewing and pulling back on the plastic draincock located at the bottom of the radiator. I use a large yellow drain pan from Ghetto Zone with a spout to collect the fluid and get almost five gallons out of the radiator alone. When completed, I replace the draincock and refill the system with a 50/50 mixture of Zerex G-05 and distilled water.

How do you get the rest of the system drained? What does the draincock run you to replace?

I don't drain the rest of the system, since I perform this on a yearly basis or sometimes a little over a year. I figure by doing it so often there is no need to completely drain the entire block out. My cooling system appears to be very clean and free of corrosion at this time given the appearance of the coolant that I drain out the last time.

By replace the draincock, I meant to put it back in and snug it up. I have never purchased a new one. I probably should have one as a spare, since it is made of plastic with o rings to make a seal. [duhhh]

Hummm... Looks like I may have to do this soon. I got an 06 with 42k so I don't think it has been long enough to start rusting. At least I hope not.

How many bottles of Zerex G05 Hoat coolant do you need?

No, I doubt that you have rust or corrosion issues. The original fill in the truck is long life 5year/ 100k Mopar G05 coolant, which they say is good for 5years/100k. So it should give you at least five years of worry free ownership.
I do a simple radiator drain and refill every year to keep the fluid fresh. What came out the first time really surprised me, sand that I'm assuming was from the head and block castings. I'm glad I didn't wait the recommended 5 year interval per the manual. Be advised, the Zerex coolant is not the pink/orange color like the factory coolant. It is a gold /clear color which is almost transparent. The factory coolant is just Zerex dyed to Dodge specifications.

The partial drain and fill should eliminate the need to ever flush it,especially doing it every year or so. On average,I would think the fluid would be fresher than doing a flush every 5 years. I believe that the entire cooling system holds a total of 7.75 gallons.

I assume I can pick it up at Walmart?

If I drain the rad, and want to fill it back up, do I need to buy 8 jugs? I don't want to do Distilled water because I may be moving and don't want to chance it freezing.

Great thanks. I got a Napa right down the road... Now just got to see if they got it in stock.

You know what you pay for it?

No problem. Happy to help.

From the NAPA website in store shopping page:

NAPA Item#: ZRXZXG05RU1
Price: $7.77
tax and shipping not included

Disclaimer: The stated price may vary from the in store price and may change at anytime.

Attributes:
Size:1 GAL
Product Features:Factory Fill & Approved For Ford & Daimler Chrysler Vehicles
Phosphate Free
Reduced Silicate
Fully Formulated
Manufacturer:Valvoline
Application:Zerex G-05 - Ready To Use - Liquid - Yellow

Good information--thank you. Have you changed the thermostat, water pump or hoses?
Jay

No problem. I have not replaced those items yet. The hoses look good and I see no reason to replace the thermostat and water pump at this time.

I'm about to do mine too. I have 2 bottles of Prestone Rad. Flush to run through it, and then plan on flushing with straight water after that. I have almost 60K and over 4years driving time on it and was also wondering if replacing the thremostat at the same time would be a good idea.

Napa has the Zerex G05, and Zerex Heavy Duty which is also HOAT. Cummins service centers carry the Zerex as well, but it was the same price as Napa.

If the thermostat is ok, I would not replace it unless the vehicle had more miles on it, or if I were having trouble with the cooling system. If you feel the need to replace it, go with a Cummins thermostat. The quality and robust nature of the replacement parts at chain stores seems to be hit and miss anymore.

Need assitance! Turned the plastic pet **** on my 2005 - 2500 radiator and
it drained OK. I cannot re-tighten the pet ****. any suggestion? Hope I do not have to take the radiator out to repair?

Thanking you in advance for any help or suggestions

In order to get it back in, you have to push the draincock inward,then turn it to get the threads started. Push hard on it and turn. If necessary, It may be necessary to put some waterproof /silicone grease; ie plumbers grease, on the o-ring to make it easier.

Do not use petroleum based grease or lubricants on the o-ring as this causes o-rings to swell up and or fail.

I used peak extended life.. According to peak it is HOAT... $7.00 gallon at wally world

Not sure if there's a real difference or not, but Peaks site shows that it's OAT, rather than HOAT.

The OAT type coolant formulas contain no silicates for corrosion protection. They use a different technology, while the Hybrid OAT or HOAT type coolants specified for our trucks contain low silicates in the formula,but not enough to fall out of solution. The OAT formulation has been associated with cooling system sludge problems related to dissolving some plastics. I would rather not take the chance of topping off or replacing my coolant with a different formulation. Keep in mind if the product says "NO Silicate" it is not a G-05 HOAT formula.

The following list contains readily available coolants that are G0-5 Hoat formulas.

Mopar 5 Year /100,000 Mile with (HOAT)-Chrysler spec-MS 9769
Valvoline Zerex G05 Hoat - Available in concentrate and 50/50 premix
Ford / Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant - Part #VC-7A

Good info, thanks Dr. Dizzle.

A 50/50 mix is Ok but I prefer a 60/40 mix just to be on the safe side when it gets cold.

I bought my Zerez G0-5 at Napa but it was straight antifreeze and I had to add distilled water to my liking. I went 50/50 because it's good to around -40 I believe.

The Prestone stuff at wallys says all makes. Dr you did not list it so I was wondering is it ok or not for our trucks?

Good point DBLR, allow me to expound on your suggestion for those members utilizing their vehicles in climates with extreme hot and/or cold weather conditions. I cite the following information as per Valvoline/Zerex Technical Data Sheet G-05 AF: "When diluted 50% with water, Zerex G-05 protects modern engine components from winter freezing and summer boil over. The chart at the top right provides mixing information. A 50% to 70% concentration range is suggested for optimum corrosion protection".

As a reminder, the mixing chart can be found on the back of your coolant container(s).

In addition, please be aware that coolant concentrations higher then 70 percent or so, may compromise the freeze protection and heat transfer of the cooling system. It is best to mix within the manufacturers 50 to 70 percent recommended concentrations.

This is some of the best info I have read about engine flushing and antifreeze for our trucks. I think it should be made into a "How to". What do you think moderators?????
Jay

Prestone "All Makes" (yellow) (and the licensed DexCool clone, orange) in the 150/5 variety are OAT coolants, incorporating 2-ethylhexanoic acid and ethelene-glycol. This formulation does not include phosphates, borates, silicates or nitrites. The anti-rust additive 2-EHA, present in OAT formulas is regarded as a plasticizer,which in short....damages various gasket materials. Given that the coolant you mention is not formulated with the same additives as a HOAT formulation,it does not meet Chryslers coolant specification as recommended for our vehicles. A call to Prestone revealed that they do not manufacture a HOAT specific formula.

Ford Motor Company whom also uses a HOAT formulated coolant as their factory fill has published the following information regarding the use of "universal"coolants in Ford vehicles from which I have included.
Q: What is Ford's position on the use of "universal" coolants in Ford vehicles?
A: Ford does not have performance data for the multitude of engine coolants available in the aftermarket and therefore cannot recommend the use of any coolant except those approved by Ford Motor Company. Due to the complexity of cooling systems, no one coolant has been proven to work in all vehicles. "Universal" coolants generally do not contain silicates and nitrites, both of which are required for Ford vehicles equipped with Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant. Thus, these "universal" coolants generally do not meet Ford's coolant specification WSS-M97B51-A1".

"Use of non-approved "universal" coolants may lead to eventual engine damage or failure. Problems caused by use of non-approved "universal" coolant may not arise immediately, but may occur over longer periods of time due to additive compatibility issues".

"Although the Ford New Vehicle Limited Warranty is not automatically voided upon the use of a non-approved coolant in Ford vehicles, if such use results in damage to the vehicle or its components, the cost of repairing the damage (and related damage) would not be covered by the Ford New Vehicle Limited Warranty".

Given this information and the fact that G-05 Hoat coolants are available, I would not recommend using the "all makes all models" formulated coolants in a vehicle factory filled with Hoat G-05 coolant.

That is very good info and very good advice. One last question from me before I do this is someone above mentioned the Zerex heavy duty is Hoat. Which one would be better the regular or heavy duty, or is it just marketing?

The Zerex Extreme Heavy Duty coolants are formulated for heavy-duty applications; ie(over the road semi-trucks and earthmoving equipment) with SCAs (supplemental coolant additives) specific to their prescribed diesel engines and applications, and will help protect engines from corrosion, hard-water deposits, foam and other concerns which can compromise their cooling systems. The HD formulations do not list the Chrysler spec on their data sheets. IMO...You would be better served by using the"reguar" Zerex G-05 HOAT (gold bottle).

I went to Autozone to grab some touchup paint (because that idiot that hit my truck). While I was there figured I would look for some Zerex G05, but thye dont sell it. They guy there was trying to tell me that you can use any of theres because it's all the same stuff. I was like umm, no thanks. I'll just go to Napa.

Thanks Dr. for all the info. Looks like I will be heading to Napa to buy the Zerex. This is a great thread for antifreeze facts.

I called my local Napa to see if they have Zerex G 05 in both the 50/50 mix and the concentrated version. This one has both. 50/50 is $7.49 and the other is $10.79.

Is it 7 or 7.5 gallons total?

So, you'll need about 8 gallons of pre-mix 50/50 ($60) or 4 gallons of concentrate A/F ($43.16) plus 4 gallons distilled water ($?)

I just grabbed a gallon of the gold bottle non 50/50 and added some distilled water. You can get the water for near nothing at walmart.

Drizz,

The plastic petcock your talking about is on the bottom driver side of the rad right? Onec you open that up, all your going to get out is the rad fluid. what can you do to get the rest of it out and drain all the old fluid out?

Then you should just flush it. I picked up 2 bottles of Prestone Rad. Flush to help loosen up sediment and junk. You're suppose to cycle that through it for 10 minutes or so, then drain and refill with just water, then drain again. Then fill with new coolant.

IS that stuff ok to run through the system or is there draw backs to it? Also that still leaves some water in the system...

When you did it, did you use distilled to run with it? And it took you two bottles right?