I've noticed on my 07' when I pull my 5th wheel trailer (approx 3500lbs pin) that the rear end squats a bit, not terrible but not level.
My old 99' would handle the same pin wieght and sit perfectly level and that truck didn't even have the upper overload spring setup.
I'm thinking of adding extensions to the bump stops of the overload setup so that they take up the load sooner and hopefully get the truck to sit level with the 5th wheel attached. The overloads just touch when the truck is at rest.

Has anyone done this yet????

 

get some ride-rights 2299 is the part number IIRC. easy install and no more squating. i love mine becuase i hated seeing her low in the rear

brett

 

Hey, that costs money!!
I like the low buck approach to these kinda things.

 

I just added some Timbrens a couple of week ago. I'm far from being a mechanic but thought I would give it a try took about 45 min for the install. They work really well . My truck would ride on the overloads when hooked to my 4H gooseneck LQ.
Mike

 

Some have used 2" square tubing to lower the bump stops so the overloads contact sooner. I've not done it as I have ride rites on my truck but I've read postive reports about it.

Brian

 

That's exactly what I'm thinking of doing. Then all I need is a nice set of ladder bars to get rid of the terrible driveline wind up that these 3rd gen trucks have. I think it must be worse on manual trucks as opposed to auto.

Thanks guys for the comments.

 

Did the 2 inch block trick on my 07. Works great for me! Here is a couple of pics of them and of our trailer hooked up. . .

 

See now that's what I'm talking about.
Looks great RRC!!

 

On my previous truck, a Ford F350, I installed air bags. The truck sat on the overload spring when hooked to my 5th wheel. They worked great and leveled the truck out. The biggest advantage it absorbed some of the road vibration transmitted from the axle to the frame.

I haven't decided if I need them or not on my 3500. The overload springs touch the stops but not too bad and the truck looks level when hooked up.

 

I build a spacer 1 1/2" high that fit the contour of the top of the bump pad.
Works great with the camper on but I do get some "slapping" of the overloads while empty on rough roads-washboard and such.

 

Looks to me like that could just unbolt with one bolt or even a wing-nut and you could install it only when you pull the trailer. Might even take less time to slip that thing in and install the nut than some guy's spend to air up their air bags. I bought a set of 3500 overload springs for my 2500 and am going to make a nice adjustable mount for my stops with a standard hitch pin to locate it where it won't touch for daily drives but I can move it down a hole to pull with. I can do this cause I don't have the factory mounts on my frame rail for the overloads and need to make some anyway. But they will look something like the ones pictured in the other reply made out of some 2" thick wall tube for the "slider" and some hitch reciever tube for the frame mount. I also made a very heavy duty custom tow bar the same way. I made 2 "recievers" that took place of my factory tow hooks with a removable mount for my tow bar so it doesn't have to hang there all the time. I have made a few of them for guy's that have seen it and wanted one for themselves. Its a very heavy duty setup that is longer than most tow bars you buy. Pulls great and you can turn around on a dime with it hooked up. I also ran a wire harness the length of my truck and a tail-light bar so the truck in tow has lights. Used it many times towing those FEMA units down south.

 

Sean Lorenz has an easily removable overload bumpstock replacement. Use it while towing or hauling,then remove it otherwise. ww.lorenzindustries.com

 

Some guys are replacing the pad on the overload contact point with a thicker bump stop made by Energy Suspension. Might be worth trying.