I need brakes all around and the rotors turned. Received estimates from 500-800 dollars! OMG just brakes

I will do my self. the question I have, are there any special tool required for a break job on a 2007, 2500 Ram, 6.7l?

 

No special tools required. Pretty much a straight forward job.

MikeyB

 

Pretty easy, except getting the rotors off can be a PITA. Use a wood block and 5 lb. sledge. Tap, tap, tap all the way around. If that doesn't work then hit it a little harder. Soak the base of the studs in WD-40 or PB Blaster. My stock pads were still really good after 100k when I sold the truck, so I'd be inclined to stick with the Mopar pads if you're going to keep the truck awhile.

 

Amen. If you have an air hammer, try that. I just got an honest hammer shape for mine instead of the regular chisels and cutters. Totally worth it. Make sure the hub is very very flat and free of any and all rust so the rotor goes back on nice and smooth and will not warp on you when you torque it down. Some never seize or similar anti-sticking rust preventative will help you on the next round.

 

Wow, you must do a lot of city driving!!! Bought my '03 new and didn't change a single brake pad until the odometer hit around 215k miles. I went Autozone jobbers.....they work but aren't that great. I agree, the Mopar pads are good ones. Might think about Hawk or another high end brand if you plan on keeping it. Doing the job yourself including the cost of the pads (really the only cost here) should be no more than a couple hundred bucks.

 

I did a 4 wheel brake job not that long ago. Here's some things I learned.

- Replace pads and calipers both. Don't mess around with old calipers and seals. In the long run, you'll be time and money ahead.

- Autozone calipers come with all the new hardware you need. But they do not come with the best brake pads.

- Get quality brake pads. Top of the line Autozone pads work better than the stock pads. Be careful about ceramic pads, as some are not recommended for towing.

- Autozone parts come with a life time warranty. Even the pads.

- Removing the rotors can be a real bear. They rust, and get stuck on the spindle/axle. Put the rear axle on jack stands. remove the tires, and spray a good penetrating oil around the lugs, trying to get it behind the rotor hat. Hint: WD-40 is NOT a penetrating oil. Put the tire back on, but leave the lug nuts slightly loose - like 1/32"ish. Start the engine, and put the trans in drive. Run it up to 40mph, put it in neutral, and slam on the brakes. I had to do that about 3-4 times to break the rotors loose.

- Most of the time, there's no real need to cut or replace the rotors, unless they're damaged. Check run out with a dial indicator, make sure the rotor is not warped (a rare occurence). Some small ridges on the rotor surface won't hurt a thing. It will just take a little bit longer to fully bed them in.

- If you change brake pad materials, you MUST resurface the rotor. You have to remove the old pad material, and lay in a new surface with the new pads. You can use a brake hone or a sanding disc in a drill motor.

- If you decide to replace the rotors, use a quality stock replacement, with a solid surface. No holes. No dimples. No slots.

- Bedding in the pads is very important. Follow the instructions to the letter. Otherwise, you could be complaining that the pads suck and are worse than the old factory pads.

 

The job is not difficult at all;however, it may require the use of a large hammer with a block of wood to remove the rear rotors as the parking brake shoes utilize rotor area as well.

Tools/Items needed:

Screwdriver (flat tip) and needlenose pliers to remove the rotor retaining clips located on the wheel studs.

13mm socket to remove the 2 long bolts on the front caliper brackets. They have a rubber sleeve over them.

Prybar or screwdriver to lift out/remove the caliper. Do not allow them to hang from the brake line. Use a zip tie or piece of wire to support them.

The bolts for the caliper brackets are 18mm (socket) for the front and 21 mm for the rear.

C clamp and old pad or wood in order to compress caliper pistons.

Penetrating oil,Brake Kleen, clean rags

Synthetic brake caliper grease/ lubricant.
Never use petroleum-based greases on caliper sliding pins. Always use synthetic grease made specifically for brake caliper sliding pins and the rubber boots that cover them.
Failure in observing this best practice and using any other grease may swell/ deteriorate the rubber seals and covers. This would allow dirt, debris and road chemicals to seize those moving components and cause premature brake component failure.

 

I put the Dodge value line front brake pads on, lifetime warranty, installed by the dealer for under 300.00 canadian$$, i tow heavy and have been very happy with them.

 

I wouldn't get rotors turned, replace them. Buy aftermarket parts, a set of rotors, better quality pads (comes with the metal pad holders) and a caliper pin boot kit (comes with grease). All you need for tools is a couple of wrenches or sockets (can't remember whether 12mm and 14mm or 14mm and 17mm), a 5" C-clamp and a round wire brush (1/2" dia) that you can push into and turn to clean the caliper pin bores.

Easy DIY job that can save you some $.

 

I have the new Autozone Duralast Gold SD brake pads front($64.99) and rear($54.99) on my truck. I put the rear pads on a few thousand miles ago. Zero noise or dust so far. The fronts went on yesterday. The Gold SD pads come with new clips and a lifetime warranty. I did not touch the rotors.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...8_197394_1610_

 

That's probably not a good thing. If you're replacing pads with a different material, you need to resurface the rotors to get rid of the previous pad material.

 

Some people and their vehicles. I wouldn't let him drive until he went back to school to learn how.

Back on topic. It'll help to get either a 12" or a little bigger 3 jaw puller. A little heat and lube to break the corrosion from around the most inner part of the rotors. When reassembling, coat the inner part of the new or turned rotor to keep it from corroding itself to the hub.

 

This article will show you the basic components on the rear. Even though it's a dually you'll get an idea of what's under there. There's another good article or two floating around about the fronts but you'll have to search for them. I bought the value line pads from Dodge. They stop pretty well and they're warranted for life. When they wear out, take them back and get another set for free.


http://wiki.dieseltruckresource.com/...en_Rear_Breaks

 

BStiger I have a great mechanic in Vancouver WA that just did mine, new rotors and pads for just over $400 with premium parts. I can get you his number if you msg me.