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Need AC Help Blower Quit

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Old Jul 5, 2007 | 06:53 PM
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From: Oklahoma
Need AC Help Blower Quit

I have an 04 2500 Quad and the blower motor on the AC just quit. It worked when I went into Bass Pro and When I came out Nothing. Here is what I know. All the fueses are good, I checked them twice (unless there is a fues somewhere outside the fuesbox under the hood). The motor itself works, tried the redneck patch and it turns fine.
How do I check the resistor, What are the settings on the Meter (where on the dial) and what should be the readings be? How do I check the dial on the dash to see if it works? Finaly how to check to see if I have a short on the power source?
I have a Hanes book, but all the colors on the schem are different and other than removal and replacement info, the book is useless.
Any help is usefull, My wife (7 months Preg) and I are to go to Missouri Tomarrow and she said get it fixed so I said OK. All AC places are full and are a week out to be seen.
Thanks
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Old Jul 5, 2007 | 08:48 PM
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From: Claxton, GA
You have probably one of the problems that has been posted on this board. What will happen is a wire behind the ignition switch will get overheated and burn into. I am not sure exactly where but it is near the ignition switch at the steering colmn area. Take a look. Normally if the resistor goes it will still work on High speed setting. Let us know.
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Old Jul 5, 2007 | 09:42 PM
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OK here is where I am at. With the key in the run position, I Checked the Power to the Blower switch from dash Blu/yel, nothing no volts. I then went to the blower itself. Checked the Blu/Yel from dash switch, nothing. Checked the Blue wire that goes to the ignition switch, nothing, no volts. At the Ignition switch harness, I tried the blue wire (the only one of the same gage at the blower, top and inside by the colume) Nothing, no volts. I tried the red wire next to it and got volts, 12.5. At the fuse box I checked the fuse and it was good. I tried the poles that attach to the fuse, one had volts (towards cab,) and the other nothing.

I also checked the wire at the ignition harness and there was blackning on the blue wire and on the red beside, when I took of the plug from the harness, there was discoloration on the space between the red and blue wire. This could be the problem or the thing it pluggs into. Can that "thing" be replaced on the cloume? Can I check it? What is it called?

So what is next. What am I missing?
Thanks

Last edited by Spitse; Jul 5, 2007 at 09:59 PM. Reason: new info no responce yet
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Old Jul 5, 2007 | 10:04 PM
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OK I am retarded, that "thingy" is the ignition switch. So now that I know that, how hart to replace?
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Old Jul 6, 2007 | 01:13 AM
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From: Claxton, GA
Take a look at this old thread. This guys truck is an 03'. Wire colors may be different but it give his fix.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...motor+-working
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Old Jul 6, 2007 | 03:12 AM
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From: McKinney, TX
I was having a problem last Summer with my A/C too. It would just stop blowing for no reason. The A/C compressor light on the controls was showing lite......but nothing would blow out. A friend of mine just reached under the dash and gave the blower moter a good swat. It started blowing again and worked fine. Everytime after that (last year) if it stopped momentarily, I would just reach under the pass. side dash and give the blower a little pop with my flashlight or hand. It never failed to start back up.

And now, it seems the problem completely went away.

I don't have any advice for you. Im not that technical and know nothing about A/C units. But if it should be blowing and it's not....just try giving a good little "swat" and it might just start working fine again. Mine did.
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Old Jul 6, 2007 | 11:33 AM
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From: Oklahoma
Got It Fixed

Well I got it fixed. Turns out the ignition switch burned out. $25 and a lot cooler in the truck.
Really not to hard to do. First Disconnect the negative side of the batteries, then remove the three star bolts holding the stearing cover, slide off the tilt **** thing. Then unhook the wires (White plug and Yellow Plug about one inch long each) under the stearing wheel. Remove the two star bolts holding the stearing colum adjust and then you can get to the ignition switch. Pull the red plastic tab on the bottom and then pull up the white plastic thing on top in the back and slide off the wire harness. Then all you have are two star bolts holding the switch and a plastic tab. Just make sure the new ignition switch is in the same position as the old one (Tub like structure that goes into colum, white thing you can turn with a screwdriver).

Mine was black between the top two leads, no current would pass.

Thanks again to all who helped here and all the other posts on the same topic. Would not have figuredd this out without all the help

Karl
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Old Jul 6, 2007 | 12:40 PM
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From: Claxton, GA
No problem, that is what we are here for. Your problem was similiar but a little different from previously stated. This will put a smile on the wifes face.....
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