lowering rear of 2004 3500 2WD
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From: SE NC USA
lowering rear of 2004 3500 2WD
I just got my new truck home and would like to lower the rear. I see there are two "spacers between the axle and first leaf. Is it OK to ditch these? Any other free lowering ideas?
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From: Dead Center in the Middle of TN. 20 miles from Jack Daniels, 10 miles from George Dickle and .8 mi from the liquor store at I-24 Exit 114
I have looked at this also and the two spacers aren't hardly enough, any other ideas on how to lower it about 2 inches? Jim
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Belltech makes rear hangers for your truck to lower the rear 4"s, I also want to lower the front 1 to 2 inches and lower the rear about 5 or 6 inches to level out the truck so I can get in the garage after I put on some 315 BFG's.
Going to dealer on Monday and see if the V10 front springs are a lesser spring rate than the HO spring rate which will lower the front.
Belltech
Then I need to do pinion angles so I ain't got no bad vibes,
Pinion Angle
Going to dealer on Monday and see if the V10 front springs are a lesser spring rate than the HO spring rate which will lower the front.
Belltech
Then I need to do pinion angles so I ain't got no bad vibes,
Pinion Angle
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From: Dead Center in the Middle of TN. 20 miles from Jack Daniels, 10 miles from George Dickle and .8 mi from the liquor store at I-24 Exit 114
I think the parts you are reffering to are made for the 1500. The 3500 has welded on spring hangers and Dodge used the hydraformed frame rails and does not reccomend grinding , drilling or welding on this frame.
The shackle kit I have not found listed for a 3500 yet either. Let me know if you come up with a viable 2" rear drop that will work with it. Thanks jim
The shackle kit I have not found listed for a 3500 yet either. Let me know if you come up with a viable 2" rear drop that will work with it. Thanks jim
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You could use lowering shackles, one -2 inchs of the bottom of the page of the link I have done.
I understand about the hangers, just grind of f the rivets and then bolt on the new handers.
I will have to look under my truck, I called Belltech on friday but must have been still closed for the holidays.
So your hangers are welded to the frame or riveted?
GC
I understand about the hangers, just grind of f the rivets and then bolt on the new handers.
I will have to look under my truck, I called Belltech on friday but must have been still closed for the holidays.
So your hangers are welded to the frame or riveted?
GC
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From: Dead Center in the Middle of TN. 20 miles from Jack Daniels, 10 miles from George Dickle and .8 mi from the liquor store at I-24 Exit 114
Sorry I am wrong totally on the hangers, sorry mine are welded too..De-arch the springs
I checked the web site and it showed a set of shackles to lower a 3500 by 2" but that was only current to 2000.
I can only see taking out the two spacers we are speaking of. The shackles are so short now that I don't think they will be able to be shortend any at all.
Let me know how the De-arch comes out.........Jim
I checked the web site and it showed a set of shackles to lower a 3500 by 2" but that was only current to 2000.
I can only see taking out the two spacers we are speaking of. The shackles are so short now that I don't think they will be able to be shortend any at all.
Let me know how the De-arch comes out.........Jim
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From: Dead Center in the Middle of TN. 20 miles from Jack Daniels, 10 miles from George Dickle and .8 mi from the liquor store at I-24 Exit 114
Prosouth,
How the heck are you going to LOWER the truck and still fit 315s on? They barely fit with the suspension at stock height!
STEP BACK FROM THE COMPUTER AND TAKE A DEEP BREATH!
Grey Rider I think yo have become confused from multiple posters and not a good profile available of each.
I have a 2WD QCSB 3500 with the fatory Michelins on it. It sits low in the front at about 4' over the tire and 8" over in the rear. Two inches is all I want to drop it in the rear and it will still be 6" over the tire.
Funny ain't it, I got a Jeep Cherokee that's lifted and the 1 ton I want to lower it.
Jim
How the heck are you going to LOWER the truck and still fit 315s on? They barely fit with the suspension at stock height!
STEP BACK FROM THE COMPUTER AND TAKE A DEEP BREATH!
Grey Rider I think yo have become confused from multiple posters and not a good profile available of each.
I have a 2WD QCSB 3500 with the fatory Michelins on it. It sits low in the front at about 4' over the tire and 8" over in the rear. Two inches is all I want to drop it in the rear and it will still be 6" over the tire.
Funny ain't it, I got a Jeep Cherokee that's lifted and the 1 ton I want to lower it. Jim
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From: Smith Valley, NV (sometimes Redwood City, CA)
ppsi,
I took out the two lowering blocks on my truck and am glad I did. The truck is almost level and looks a bit better. It's not to hard to do.
Also, if you wanted another bit you could remove the overload leaf under the spring pack (on the 2500's), this is almost an inch thick, but it would reduce your load capacity.
All you have to do is pull a rear wheel while supporting that side of the truck with a jackstand under the spring pack behind the axle. Support the center of the axle (in the middle of the truck) with a floor jack. Put a "C" clamp on the spring pack in front of the axle. Remove the U bolts. Lower the axle with the floor jack about 4 inches. Remove the spring center bolts one at a time and replace with 3 1/2" grade 8 bolts and nuts (loosen both bolts, swing the lifting blocks asside and install the first bolt with Locktight Blue, also grip the round bolt head with a vice grip to remove the nut). Move the plastic centering pin to the overload leaf and jack the axle back up with the floor jack. Use a deep socket to re-install the U bolts. Re-install the wheel and go to the other side.
The new bolts are hex and the existing are small round head, so I was aware of the flat orientation as I tightened them to allow maximum clearance in the axle saddle.
It's quite easy and you could always go back if you wanted.
Wetspirit
I took out the two lowering blocks on my truck and am glad I did. The truck is almost level and looks a bit better. It's not to hard to do.
Also, if you wanted another bit you could remove the overload leaf under the spring pack (on the 2500's), this is almost an inch thick, but it would reduce your load capacity.
All you have to do is pull a rear wheel while supporting that side of the truck with a jackstand under the spring pack behind the axle. Support the center of the axle (in the middle of the truck) with a floor jack. Put a "C" clamp on the spring pack in front of the axle. Remove the U bolts. Lower the axle with the floor jack about 4 inches. Remove the spring center bolts one at a time and replace with 3 1/2" grade 8 bolts and nuts (loosen both bolts, swing the lifting blocks asside and install the first bolt with Locktight Blue, also grip the round bolt head with a vice grip to remove the nut). Move the plastic centering pin to the overload leaf and jack the axle back up with the floor jack. Use a deep socket to re-install the U bolts. Re-install the wheel and go to the other side.
The new bolts are hex and the existing are small round head, so I was aware of the flat orientation as I tightened them to allow maximum clearance in the axle saddle.
It's quite easy and you could always go back if you wanted.
Wetspirit
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From: Dayton, OH
Prosouth,
I just find it amazing that 315s will fit a lowered truck, when so many have reported rubbing with the suspension at stock height.
Or am I way off, and 2wd trucks are not susceptible to rubbing as 4wd trucks are?
I just find it amazing that 315s will fit a lowered truck, when so many have reported rubbing with the suspension at stock height.
Or am I way off, and 2wd trucks are not susceptible to rubbing as 4wd trucks are?
DTR's 'Wrench thrower...' And he aims for the gusto...
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From: Smith Valley, NV (sometimes Redwood City, CA)
Gary,
Smooth as glass, before and after. Mine is a standard cab and I think the vibes are on the quad. Is that right? The driveline angle has not changed compared to having a few hundred pounds in the bed, or however much it would take to lower it about 1 1/4" at the axle before removing the blocks. No problem. Headlights point up more though, I'll look at that today.
Grey,
I'm only talking about lowering the back to, almost, level the truck. I don't think there has been an issue with the clearance on the rear and larger tires, within reason. The wheel cannot go farther up into the wheelwell when lowered as the stop still hits the axle the same as before, we're just giving up a little of the normal travel. Next is H2 wheels.
Wetspirit
Smooth as glass, before and after. Mine is a standard cab and I think the vibes are on the quad. Is that right? The driveline angle has not changed compared to having a few hundred pounds in the bed, or however much it would take to lower it about 1 1/4" at the axle before removing the blocks. No problem. Headlights point up more though, I'll look at that today.
Grey,
I'm only talking about lowering the back to, almost, level the truck. I don't think there has been an issue with the clearance on the rear and larger tires, within reason. The wheel cannot go farther up into the wheelwell when lowered as the stop still hits the axle the same as before, we're just giving up a little of the normal travel. Next is H2 wheels.
Wetspirit
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Wet, It could be the Quads not sure, maybe they fixed the problem for the 04's.
Mine has no bad vibes, my 2001.5 did, took a while to straighten out. That's when I heard and learned about pinion angles.
I am putting on Chip Fooses Spank wheels on and should stick out about an inch more,,,,,,,will find out the end of the week when they come in.
SPANK WHEELS
The boys at Foose say they fit, worried about the center hole being 122 mm to clear the hubs.
Mine has no bad vibes, my 2001.5 did, took a while to straighten out. That's when I heard and learned about pinion angles.
I am putting on Chip Fooses Spank wheels on and should stick out about an inch more,,,,,,,will find out the end of the week when they come in.
SPANK WHEELS
The boys at Foose say they fit, worried about the center hole being 122 mm to clear the hubs.