I've done a search, and can't seem to find any instructions on installing the 08+ steering linkage upgrade. I seem to recall reading a thread on it - but cant find it. Anyone have a link?

 

since the upgraded kit comes already assembled its pretty easy. remove shaft from pitman arm, remove steering stabilizer, remove both outter tie rods from knuckles and the stock one falls out. reverse order for installation of the new kit. what I did to mine was make sure the steering was STRAIGHT when i pulled into the driveway. then you can get the new kit adjusted pretty close to get you to the alignment shop

 

hardest part for me was changing the pitman arm other than that it was a piece of cake

 

I got everything off last night. Luckily, I had to stop at Sears and get a 1-5/16" socket, and on a whim I grabbed one of their 2 arm pullers. Thank god I did. Also, just on a gut feeling, I took a ratchet strap and wrapped it around the linkage and cross beam. I wasn't able to get the linkage out of the other end of the pitman arm, so when the pitman finally popped off, it would have all come down on my head.

Got everything loose installed before the rain and darkness finally drove me inside. I put the passenger side in first, then used a floor jack to support the other end while adjusting it out to get it in. One note - make sure the linkage to the pitman arm is on top before you attach the drivers side. Otherwise you have to take it back off as there isn't room to get it to rotate up.

I'm not sure that I have everything adjusted to where it needs to be - kinda tough to see if the pins are straight up into the holes (especially when the sun is setting....). Guess the alignment shop will take care of that. Forecast for today is solid rain - gonna be a wet afternoon.

Oh, any tip on a wrench for the two ends? I could only get a standard wrench on it - not much clearance between it and the hubs.

 

would this upgrade be the same for an 06 3500 dually 4x4?

 

Yes - you have the same steering as I do.

One thing to add:
Check the position of your steering wheel prior to installing the pitman. Mine is now 90 deg off. I'll fix that when I put the stabilizer on.

Also, take a picture of your system prior to putting this on. Might be a help when you are underneath and trying to remember which side of the pitman the drag link attaches to...

I'm getting mine aligned today, so we'll see if it helped.

 

BTW, seeing that you are in WA, you can get yours from Rip at Source Automotive http://sourceautomotive.biz/.
Mine got to me next day.

 

Update: Had alignment done yesterday, and took it for a short cruise down the freeway on the way home. Truck tracked much straighter, and steering felt somehow lighter - maybe that is due to the new stabilizer shock.

Got the box stabilizer installed this morning. Really easy install - took me about 1hr.
Couple notes on it.
You'll need a 1-5/16 crows foot, or really deep socket for the new nut/shaft system. Also, the set screws are 1/8th" SAE. I used a floor jack under the sway bar, but did not need to move the bar rearward as the instructions online said. Everything lined up perfectly. I did put the brace on wrong to start with - but it was quickly apparent that it was in wrong (the lower brace portion goes under the sway bar....).
Also, would've nice if they would have replaced the sway bar bolts with 15mm bolts - there is now one more size of socket needed.

I'll drive it for a couple days and see how it feels before reporting back.

 

thanks for that link, should have all the parts in a day or two then we'll see how well it works.

figuring alignment it should come in ~600 bucks for a total rebuild from pitman arm to tires. Almost sprung for the stablizer bar, but decided since it can go on later without taking anything apart we'll see how well it works without it. If it were my truck I'd have put it on but my bro can do it later after he gets his truck on the road making $

Wish it were a bilistein stablizer shock and not a skyjacker, but that can upgrade easly too.

 

Did you replace the pitman arm as well?

 

I did - I figured that the extra 75 for that was worth it.

 

Make sure all your tre's are in a "neutral position". That is,they are not cocked forward or backward. I think some of the issues people are having with the tre's breaking is due to incorrect installation,especially with the toe-in adjustment from the alignment shop. The joint is unable to float because it's left in a cocked position.

 

Forgive my ignorance , but what is a "tre"....?

 

tie rod end