A little towing advise needed.
??????????????? i wonder if you had them installed properly ? i have used them for years and i think they are great.
i back with mine with no problems . i read i should use two with trailer over 20' but as of yet have not seen the need for the second one with my 28' trailer.
i back with mine with no problems . i read i should use two with trailer over 20' but as of yet have not seen the need for the second one with my 28' trailer.
Muted one day, Banned the next....... Ah the life of a DTR 1%'er
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Ohio: Home of the disappointing sports teams
Go with the Fifthwheel!! Good luck trying to back a 35 foot Tag into those small parking sites at a camp ground! I would highly recommend getting the 5ver, it will pull so much easier and backs / turns on a dime.
As I stated before, I am not interested in a 5th wheel. This is a toy hauler, meant to be taken off the beaten path. The last time I did that with a 5th wheel, I had my truck in a body shop. Not to mention I just put a camper shell on my truck, and I don't want that hassel. I did not want this to turn into a 5th wheel VS. a big tag trailer debate. I knew I wanted a big tag and was looking for advice on how to make the tow a little safer / more tolerable, maybe I was not clear about that upfront. My father has a small trucking company, which I have grown up around all of my life, so I think I can put that 30' tag anywhere a 5th wheel can be put (just my honest opinion)......and when you look at the pivot points of the two, you get a much quicker response out of a tag. This reply may seem a little confrontational, not inteded that way, but like I said I was looking for some advice for my situation, and not trying to start a debate ......thanks again for all those who helped.
I have lightweight, all-aluminum travel trailer, 34-feet at under 8,000-lbs. (Silver Streak 3411) Tandem axle. I ditched the Reese set-up and went with a Hensley Arrow hitch. Does EXACTLY what Hensley says it will, eliminates sway. Weight limit is 14,000-lbs (check with factory); if it fits I'd use it on anything. (And, yes, I've towed plenty including as an OTR CDL driver). Rig is 58' long and grosses near dead-on at 16,000.
I use a 3/4-ton long-bed 2WD. With a topper, bed load and hitch weight the truck needs an anti-roll bar in the rear. I replaced my shocks with Bilsteins but am not impressed. Truck needs larger front anti-roll bar, IMO. (2WD is independent suspension.
All trailers need an axle alignment straight off the lot, a bearing inspection and brake amperage check per wheel. I wouldn't trust ANY manufacturer on this. Also, I'd get some Michelin XPS tires on it, pronto. I added CENTRAMATIC wheel balancers after balancing new tires on a Hunter Gsp-9700. Things stay put inside, even a half-full paper cup of tea my wife left on a rack over a bed.
I use a dedicated torque wrench for the lugs (every trip, we're full-time since May; about 5,000 miles so far [haven't even left Texas]), and keep the tires within 1/2-lb of maximum (as they are at 85% load at all times).
With the Hensley I CANNOT shake the trailer loose. I've tried. It tracks like no tomorrow. It's one "fault" is that it doesn't like ditches. I can max-lock U-turn on a wide city street (and my drive axle to trailer tandem split is 25').
Since that may not be the hitch for you, then look at the Equal-I-Zer and the Reese Dual Cam. The latter is said to need to have the WD bars bend 1.0" to effectively transfer load (will bend 4.0" before breaking). Heaviset bar is not always the answer. Heavier the truck suspension, then lighter bars on hitch according to former Airstream company employee and dealer INLAND RV (Andy), a man experienced since the 1960's. There is a relationship here that is not as obvious as it looks. Look into this closely, as he also used to investigate and pay insurance claims from Airstreams old division.
Get tongue weight with Sherline scale or at CAT scale. Transfer 2/3 of TW to TV and 1/3 back onto TT axles. Discrepancy between front and rear TV axles should be around 10%. Vehicles should be level within themselves after hitching. Get ball height after above is right. Then the Dual Cam will perform as advertised. Sweat the details. It ain't just "12% tongue weight and you're good to go".
More than 90% of TV/TT rigs never get this right. Even the "experts". That's one BIG trailer. Bet it's just cool as can be.
I use a 3/4-ton long-bed 2WD. With a topper, bed load and hitch weight the truck needs an anti-roll bar in the rear. I replaced my shocks with Bilsteins but am not impressed. Truck needs larger front anti-roll bar, IMO. (2WD is independent suspension.
All trailers need an axle alignment straight off the lot, a bearing inspection and brake amperage check per wheel. I wouldn't trust ANY manufacturer on this. Also, I'd get some Michelin XPS tires on it, pronto. I added CENTRAMATIC wheel balancers after balancing new tires on a Hunter Gsp-9700. Things stay put inside, even a half-full paper cup of tea my wife left on a rack over a bed.
I use a dedicated torque wrench for the lugs (every trip, we're full-time since May; about 5,000 miles so far [haven't even left Texas]), and keep the tires within 1/2-lb of maximum (as they are at 85% load at all times).
With the Hensley I CANNOT shake the trailer loose. I've tried. It tracks like no tomorrow. It's one "fault" is that it doesn't like ditches. I can max-lock U-turn on a wide city street (and my drive axle to trailer tandem split is 25').
Since that may not be the hitch for you, then look at the Equal-I-Zer and the Reese Dual Cam. The latter is said to need to have the WD bars bend 1.0" to effectively transfer load (will bend 4.0" before breaking). Heaviset bar is not always the answer. Heavier the truck suspension, then lighter bars on hitch according to former Airstream company employee and dealer INLAND RV (Andy), a man experienced since the 1960's. There is a relationship here that is not as obvious as it looks. Look into this closely, as he also used to investigate and pay insurance claims from Airstreams old division.
Get tongue weight with Sherline scale or at CAT scale. Transfer 2/3 of TW to TV and 1/3 back onto TT axles. Discrepancy between front and rear TV axles should be around 10%. Vehicles should be level within themselves after hitching. Get ball height after above is right. Then the Dual Cam will perform as advertised. Sweat the details. It ain't just "12% tongue weight and you're good to go".
More than 90% of TV/TT rigs never get this right. Even the "experts". That's one BIG trailer. Bet it's just cool as can be.
If the rear end of the truck is still feeling a little squirrely, I think the answer may lie with your tires. OEM tires, even ld range E are pretty soft compared to a set of Ricksons and some G rated 19.5's. Those will quiet that thing down a bunch, essentially as stable as a dually.
Only downside there is if you are planning on towing in sand, the heavy tires don't air down and conform as well as the lighter LT tires. I pull a heavy 5er (40' 3 axle toyhauler) with an '06 CTD 2500 LB Quad cab 4x4, and at Sand Mountain, NV had to air down to 35 psi in the rear and 30 in the front to get around in the camping area. With 7600 lbs on the rear axle, 35 psi looked nearly flat, though, and I had no problems after that. I think I could have safely gone to 25 psi in the fronts, maybe even a bit lower but didn't need to and for sure didn't want to roll a bead or get any sand between the bead and the rim.
I run 60 psi in my bags on the road and 95 psi in the rear tires, 85 in the front. No sway at all. If you go with this kind of setup, I recommend Bilsteins all around to control not only the weight of the load but the unsprung weight of the tires/wheels. They are HEAVY.
Only downside there is if you are planning on towing in sand, the heavy tires don't air down and conform as well as the lighter LT tires. I pull a heavy 5er (40' 3 axle toyhauler) with an '06 CTD 2500 LB Quad cab 4x4, and at Sand Mountain, NV had to air down to 35 psi in the rear and 30 in the front to get around in the camping area. With 7600 lbs on the rear axle, 35 psi looked nearly flat, though, and I had no problems after that. I think I could have safely gone to 25 psi in the fronts, maybe even a bit lower but didn't need to and for sure didn't want to roll a bead or get any sand between the bead and the rim.
I run 60 psi in my bags on the road and 95 psi in the rear tires, 85 in the front. No sway at all. If you go with this kind of setup, I recommend Bilsteins all around to control not only the weight of the load but the unsprung weight of the tires/wheels. They are HEAVY.
My tag is 30' overall and runs about 11K loaded. I also get my rig off the road and do 99.9% dry camping. When off of the road, remove the distribution bars and friction bar before it gets to rough to avoid bending the trailer frame.
If I were to up my load to 14k, I'd install some better upgrades.
1. Airbags
2. Sway bar
3. class v hitch mounted in conjunction with the class IV (see this thread)
If I were to up my load to 14k, I'd install some better upgrades.
1. Airbags
2. Sway bar
3. class v hitch mounted in conjunction with the class IV (see this thread)
www.equalizerhitch.com
Cheapest place to get it: www.rvwholesalers.com
Why spend $2500 on a hitch when you can get one that does the same thing for $369? I cannot fathom why anybody would spend that kind of money on a freaking hitch. I've owned an Equalizer for seven years and I have pulled big trailers and small trailers, and they have NEVER swayed in the slightest when using that hitch. That includes 900 miles towing double last year... the second trailer didn't twitch either.
Rob
Cheapest place to get it: www.rvwholesalers.com
Why spend $2500 on a hitch when you can get one that does the same thing for $369? I cannot fathom why anybody would spend that kind of money on a freaking hitch. I've owned an Equalizer for seven years and I have pulled big trailers and small trailers, and they have NEVER swayed in the slightest when using that hitch. That includes 900 miles towing double last year... the second trailer didn't twitch either.
Rob
www.equalizerhitch.com
Cheapest place to get it: www.rvwholesalers.com
Why spend $2500 on a hitch when you can get one that does the same thing for $369? I cannot fathom why anybody would spend that kind of money on a freaking hitch. I've owned an Equalizer for seven years and I have pulled big trailers and small trailers, and they have NEVER swayed in the slightest when using that hitch. That includes 900 miles towing double last year... the second trailer didn't twitch either.
Rob
Cheapest place to get it: www.rvwholesalers.com
Why spend $2500 on a hitch when you can get one that does the same thing for $369? I cannot fathom why anybody would spend that kind of money on a freaking hitch. I've owned an Equalizer for seven years and I have pulled big trailers and small trailers, and they have NEVER swayed in the slightest when using that hitch. That includes 900 miles towing double last year... the second trailer didn't twitch either.
Rob
quit !!! everbody has a fetish of some type

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