Heater/AC blower problem
Heater/AC blower problem
My heater will not return from the recycle cab air position, This happened to a friend and he had it repaired under warrantee but he does not know what they did. Anyone that has had this problem and can give me a direction to start would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Roadster 31
2006 3500 Mega cab CTD
Thanks in advance.
Roadster 31
2006 3500 Mega cab CTD
Yeah it's the blend door. My wife took in our '06 2500 QCSB for repair in April and they didn't bother to fix it so I took it in while I was home on vacation. They wanted me to pay for it but I complained and had them pull up the service records on it. Lo and behold, it showed my wife taking it in for that very problem and they misdiagnosed it (yeah right). I ended up doing the $100 co-pay.
Takes about a day to fix and was covered under the 3/36,000 warranty.
Kris
Takes about a day to fix and was covered under the 3/36,000 warranty.
Kris
My heater will not return from the recycle cab air position, This happened to a friend and he had it repaired under warrantee but he does not know what they did. Anyone that has had this problem and can give me a direction to start would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Roadster 31
2006 3500 Mega cab CTD
Thanks in advance.
Roadster 31
2006 3500 Mega cab CTD
There's a ton of info on here regarding all of these issues. If you can be a little more specific, we can point you in the right direction.
That would tend to suggest that you are actually talking about the recirculatioin door.
You can visually confirm the recirculation door is working by removing the glovebox (pull the back corners inward while tipping the box out). You will then be looking a the in-cab intake grille, and the door there should block that grill in fresh air mode, and flip up to open that grille and block the passage that leads to the fresh air intake at the cowl ahead of the windshield in recirculation mode.
There is a stop tab on the housing that engages a lug on a white plastic coupler between the motor and the door. These are intended to limit range of motion, and typically the tab breaks off and the motor then torques the door until the coupler strips or the door breaks.
The dash does have to be removed to replace the recirculation housing and door, but fortunately the whole HVAC does not have to come out (as it does on the blend door), so you don't have to mess with draining the coolant and evacuating the AC system.
This thread is useful in explaining the HVAC box, and it links to a nice write up on removal of the dash.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/....html?t=210483
It really isn't as bad as it looks. Just time consuming.
Welcome to the forum.
You can visually confirm the recirculation door is working by removing the glovebox (pull the back corners inward while tipping the box out). You will then be looking a the in-cab intake grille, and the door there should block that grill in fresh air mode, and flip up to open that grille and block the passage that leads to the fresh air intake at the cowl ahead of the windshield in recirculation mode.
There is a stop tab on the housing that engages a lug on a white plastic coupler between the motor and the door. These are intended to limit range of motion, and typically the tab breaks off and the motor then torques the door until the coupler strips or the door breaks.
The dash does have to be removed to replace the recirculation housing and door, but fortunately the whole HVAC does not have to come out (as it does on the blend door), so you don't have to mess with draining the coolant and evacuating the AC system.
This thread is useful in explaining the HVAC box, and it links to a nice write up on removal of the dash.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/....html?t=210483
It really isn't as bad as it looks. Just time consuming.
Welcome to the forum.
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I just got done putting in the recirc door and the mode 1 door with the heater treater parts. I ended up pulling the dash in order to get out my Infinity amp. Guys, it looks 100 times worse than it is. I have put this off for over a year and finally decided to suck it up. Read and reread the thread on the dash removal. The only issues I had was finding the two bolts under the column. After alot of looking they jumped out and bit me. They screw right up into the tubing in the dash. Had I had the stones to just rip out the shifter boot to get to the final console screw, it would not have taken 1 hour to get out the dash. The only thing I would do different than the write up, is grab someone for 5 minutes and take the bolts on the drivers side of the dash all the way out and have him or her help swing the dash back. Then every thing is out there easy to work on and its just a couple of easy to get to screws at that point. I used the heater treater doors on both, because they will never break.
It's my pot and I'll stir it if I want to. If you're not careful, I'll stir your's as well!

Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,264
Likes: 210
From: Central Mexico.
For those of you that have trouble switching, try doing it with the fan on low. Discovered years ago that the Dodge selector mechanism does not like to move the doors when the blower is on anything except low. On mine, nothing moves with the fan on medium or high and has done this from new.
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then the dash will need to come out. hope it is covered under the warranty.

