Oval Racer

I've been lurking here for a while and decided to visit my dealer to pick up a new truck. My 2002 Ford F150 is really not up for what I try to get it to do and is not even safely towing my laods. I love the Dodges' and have my mind set on a Cummins.

I tow a 10,000 lb tag race trailer 20x a year. I also have a small boat. The truck will be a daily driver. I currently have to borrow a truck to tow the race trailer..

I am going back and forth on a couple things.

1- 2500 vs 3500. I understand 3500 is just a 2500 with overload springs. So, I would expect no difference in unloaded ride quality. So why buy a 2500 besides the small price difference. Any other differences I am unaware of?

2- Dually vs SRW. I would like a Dually, but how much of a PITA are these to drive daily. I know this question is subjective. Also, I can expect to lose 1.5 or so MPG?

3- Auto vs 6-sp. I don't mind shifting. My race trailer is stored flat, but the truck is up a hill when hooked up and ready to go. I also use steep boat ramps. On these trucks, how much do you have to feather the clutch? I heard someone say you can just dump the cluth in first with no gas to get going. Is this true? When not towing, do you take off in 2nd or 1st?

4- 3.73 vs 4.11. I plan to run 33 or 35" tires. So, I think I should order the 4.11 now. The tires should drop the ratio to 3.73 level. Anything wrong with my logic?

5- right now, dodge is offering $3500 rebate. Any reason to believe they will make the deal sweeter in a month or two? Do they typically drop to clear out old model years?

Thanks for the help. I'm excited to find a truck, in Patriot Blue of course.

JD Dearden

Well I really like the dually personally it dosent matter what you are towing they are always going to be better. Yes the truck will go without hitting the fuel it will even move in 3rd if you roll into it. And really the only thing you can't do is take them through automatic carwashes, which is a good thing, I take mine through banks and drivethroughs all the time. When towing it just depends on how heavy your load is as far as getin it movin. I have the 3.73 in mine and really like it but sometime wished I had the 4.10. Auto or 6 speed just comes down to what you want but I vote for the 6.

skydiver41

Don't even think 2500. 3500 SRW is rated to haul 900 lbs more cargo or pin weight based on overload springs and doesn't cost any more. How much is the pin weight on your trailer? Look at the numbers I posted on how much my truck weighs. My 3500 SRW auto is rated at 9900 max. My truck weighs 7580 with no other passengers. Throw in the wife and 2 dogs...add another 300 pounds. Now we're at 7900 pounds. Now I can legally haul 2000 pounds of cargo/trailer pin weight. I forget what the duelly specs are but I think they're around 4400 pounds (because of the extra 2 tires). So first you have to ask yourself if a SRW will safely do the job you need it to or if you must have a dually. The numbers will tell you which way to go. Dually's cost more to replace tires on and don't do as well in the snow. They are a much more stable platform for hauling big loads.

Auto vs 6 speed...I wish I would have ordered a six speed as my truck is not a daily driver and clutches are easier to upgrade then TCs. If you like shifting I'd say the manual is the way to go.

3.73 vs 4.10. go with the 3.73 especially if you go with the 6 speed. 1st gear in the 6 speed is so low you'll rarely use it except for situations like that steep hill you mentioned...and you won't have to go into 4 lo to get such a gear like us auto guys have to do. The 6 speeds have a lower (numerically higher) overdrive gear than the autos. Many 6 speed owners with 3.73 are already wishing they had another gear. It would be ever worse with 4.10s.

Boz007

Ive got the 6sp and i love it. If i was big into racing id rather have an auto but otherwise it works great for me. I start in 2nd gear unless im towing heavy uphill. If im towing flat i still start in 2nd.
As far as gearing, if you get the manual you dont have a choice. Its 3.73's and thats it. The gearing in the G56 manual is so low its nearly the same if not lower than the NV5600 (previous manual) with 4.10's and the auto with 4.10's. Even with my 315's im running around 2000 rpms at 70mph. Stock i was around 2300+ rpms at 70.

Foxborough

If it helps, I tow a #6000 boat all around (see picts.). The 2500 pulls it fine had a 15 mph crosswind last trip and did not budge down the road. Even going where the crosswind gets blocked by the overpass.....smooth. I know that my rig is #4000 lighter and better wind resistance. The mpg was 13.5 (hand calc, almost 10k miles & 70-75mph). The auto works great for me, temps so far on hwy 140-150, city 160-180 (@Ozarks 90 deg temp w/lots of lights). Backing the boat up the driveway just one shot will put the transmission temp to 190. The gauge is on the hot leg. I may try 4WL. I use that everytime @ the boat ramp, just a little pedal gets the boat out. I have not towed @ 10000 but just to let you know ,#6000 is a breeze. Up some pretty good hills could hold 75 mph. I chose to back off on cruse when pyro got too much above 1150 and more hill left (I was'nt racing). Just backed off to 70 and just purred along .

SkyHarborCowboy

Here is what I have to say. If you tow anything of value, make sure its entire contents are fully insured if SRW! If you have a blow out at speed, ESPECIALLY if you have 35 in tires on, you are taking a HUGE chance that your trailer doesnt flip over on you while trying to keep that truck under control with all of that weight on the back end!

Second, 6 Speed ALL the way! I would also recommend the exhaust brake.

Third, check on insurance and registration expenses when considering 2500/3500 issues as those prices are generally significantly different.

Fourth, you can always add Airbags etc if you go with 2500.

Joe

runamuk

I tow a 7x16' 6k tag daily with my srw swb 4x4 1 ton no sweat!! I have towed a heavier tag (11k maximum so far). Again no sweat!

Nice thing about the tags is they don't take up your gvwr. Bad thing is they are limited on weight. Keep an eye on your trailer brakes!!

I have never had a problem towing anything I wanted, but if I were to do it again from a tag towing stand point I'd go with the long bed 3500 srw with a 6 spd and 4.10's. Get the exhaust brake!!!!

I'd only consider a dually if I were towing a 5'er or a gooseneck because they are a pita for a daily driver.

As far as running 35's on a tow rig why?? 33's will suffice quite nicely without having to lift anything and still keep the "Oh my Gawd torque" of the 4.10's.

Definetly get the 3500 4x4!!! Even a slick boat ramp will leave the 2x4 guys lacking!!

Rick

DR3500

In my case I have 35's on my truck to offset the 4.10's in my axles (I have a 5600). My truck with the gears and tires have the same overall ratio as a truck with 3.73's and stock tires. With the G56 and 3.73's the overall ratios are the same as mine with the stock tires. If I do any time on the interstate even with the 35's, My mileage drops pretty badly but if I keep it ~ 60 I get decent mileage.

I do agree about the 3500 though, with a 2500 even if it has airbags you are seriously limited on Legal capacity.
IMHO the 3500DRW is best if you tow alot, due to stability but worse pretty much every where else.
The 3500 still can carry a fair amount of weight without the "hips" getting in the way while unladen.
the 2500 is still pretty capable but can't hold a candle to either of the 3500's

packard8

I tow a similar trailer (around #10K , depending on what is inside) and I opted for the 3500 QC long bed SRW 6 speed. My previous truck was a 2001 F350 CC SRW 7.3 PSD 6 speed and it did a good job for me for about 95K miles. As mentioned, you can only get the 3.73 axle with the 6 speed…I find it too low in OD when empty, but it pulls really strong when towing. For sure get the 4x4 if you will be on boat ramps…not much difference in MPG and you will recoup the cost at trade in or sale time.

Give some thought to getting the Jake Brake if you tow a lot. You probably don't need the dually unless you think you will get a bigger trailer down the road. Re a 2500 vs 3500, it's better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it.....IMHO.

Oval Racer

Thanks for all the replies. I think I'm going to visit the dealer tomorrow and see if we can work something out. I did stop by today for a test drive. I told them I would talk it over with the wife and come back.. They dont like that, but it's my $$.. I'm also not married, but the excuse worked.

It is definately a different beast than my gasser. I would say my Ferd is a bit quicker off the line, but there is a big hill 10 miles near the dealer I insisted we go to for the test drive. The truck did not act any different on the hill then it did on flat ground.. It was like no hill was there. My ford would downshift and scream up it. I was also very suprised at how good the turn radius was. Much better than my friends 2003 Chevy 2500. I cuold not hear it was a diesel. I did notice a slight drone at about 75-80mph but not bad enought to annoy me. The ride quality was better than I expected. I'm hooked.

I appreciate all the feedback. I have been weighing all the options for a while now. I would of never thought buying a truck would be such a difficult descision.

I think I will go SRW, 3500 for sure. My boat is very light and the trailer does not have much toung weight. I could even add a weight distributing hitch with sway control. This will be my daily driver for the next 5-6 years, so I don't want to deal with DRW.

I think I'll also go with the 4.11 and auto combo. Again, daily driver and I decided I don't want shift. I often sit in traffic in my commute, or I would go 6 spd 3.73 for sure. I will go 33" or 35" tires when it's time. I'll be checking out the pics of ppl's rigs here and make a final descision. I wont change 'em for a few months.

I'll let you know what I end up with.

Oval Racer

I thought 35" will fit without a lift? I guess I need to read more.. Thanks.

ptgarcia

315/70-17's will, on the stock rims, but you may get a little rubbing here and there.

And just so you know, the gear option is 4.10, not 4.11

I think the SRW is a good choice. I have a MegaCab 3500 SRW and pull a 10,000 lb GVWR travel trailer. It pulls it with no problem. I really wanted a dually, but didn't want to hassle with the wider stance since it's my daily driver. And since my wife drives it whenever she gets a chance, if I had a dually I'd be replacing fenders way too often!

SOhappy

Pulled into the bank drive thru last night behind a 2nd gen 3500 dually with the V10. To my horror (but with my digital camera ready ), I realized he wasn't going to fit. Luckily he realized it too (some kid with the boss's truck) and after finishing his transaction, got out and asked us all to back up so he could too.

Oval Racer

I bought a truck sight-unseen. They did not have what I wanted on the lot so are traveling 200 miles to get it.

2006 QC 3500 SRW 4x4. 2-tone Patriot blue with silver. This is going to be a long day.

First thing I want to do is de-badge it. I love the cleaner look of a de-badged vehicle. And the Big Horn Edition emblem is friggen huge.

ptgarcia

That's how I bought my MegaCab, sight unseen over the phone. Drove 85 miles after work one night to pick it up and do the paper work.

I bought my Titan before that sight unseen also, but that dealer delivered it to my office for me (about 70 miles away). That's service!