I,m going in to my dealer for time #4, or 5,for my a/c not working,blowing warm on the passenger side.Last time they repaired it for freezing up ,they put the dye in it,so when I bring it in again they can find the leak.When it was freezing up,it was easier to just turn off the compressor,& let it melt,then start again,rather then taking it in to the dealer! My dilema is that I'm running to 11 months of my warranty ending,& then exspensive a/c repair bills.Is every body in hot area's having a/c problems with thier truck?Should the service/rpair record protect me beyound end of warranty,regarding a/c? Thank's Pat

 

Get and keep receipts from every time its been in and you'll be ok.

 

A/C was totally nonexistant coming home so I took it in and they fixed it ASAP. They claim it was the connector to the A/C pump. Works fine now.

 

My truck will go to the dealer soon for the 6th time for the A/C. I am at 63,000 miles. I just had to pay to have it diagniosed ($36.00) The there will be a $100.00 deductible minus the $36 I have already paid. The dealer says that the evaporator is leaking again, this will be the second evaporator. They have replaced a suction line also. They have refilled the freon numerous times. I have the same problem that some others have, with the passengers side being warmer than the drivers side. It is cool for the moment. Kyle

 

Last year I had the same problem with the volume of air coming out of the vents decreasing and getting warmer until it was really uncomfortable in the truck. Went to the dealer a few times and they couldn't find anything wrong. So I finally got it to do it on a week day. Everything was frozen from the grill to the dash. Evaporator was a block of ice and no air could get through. In my case it had plenty of coolant, but the "fin sensor" was bad so the compressor stayed on all the time. Had to replace the evaporator because the fin sensor is an integral part. Worked fine all last summer.

Last week was the first time I used the AC this summer - nothing. No coolant. Dealer recharged but can't find a leak. Everything works fine now, but I'm sure the coolant will leak out again. That's been my only recurring problem with this truck.

 

My truck's AC is very weak! Looks like I will be headed to the dealer next week. I am hoping it is a easy fix. There must be some design issues with the Ram AC system...

 

Only reoccuring problem I have also.Will have to take mine in soon.

 

I got my truck back after 2 days of testing.Apparently the blow out plugs on the compressor kept going out,allowing freon to leak out.My dealer put a new compressor on ,seems to work fine today with 70/80 degree temps.I sure hope so.This has been the only problem I've had with my truck,sure pulls good! Pat

 

Ok haven't seen this one yet. Mine works decent when your running it down the road (not great) but cool but when you stop and run into a store for a minute it gets hotter than hello. Never knew this truck could blow air as hot as this. wouldn't all winter! It does it most of the time but not every time I can hear the compressor cycle continously when at idle. Any ideas??

 

Low charge also.

 

My Air blows pretty decent I guess once it gets going. My truck is black though, so it seems to be hotter anyway.

My complaint is that sometimes when I first click on my a/c compressor it makes a loud clicking noise. It is almost like it is slightly froze up and the serpentine belt slips a little to get it moving. Anybody having a similar experience? Any suggestions or explanations about it? It doesn't seem to be "Broken" yet, but I fear that it may be shortening the life of something.

 

Had a BLACK 300ZX and a WHITE 300ZX parked next to the service drive at work in the heat of summer many years ago.Put AC thermometers in them,sat them on the seats.White car hit in the mid 140 degree range and the black car was in the 190 range.Every thing from radio's to wrapped steering wheels fall apart and fail much faster in dark(black)vehicles.

 

Did you find the issue? I didn't see this post and started another due to same type of issue. I tested my blower motor today and it will not go to max. Just wondering what you found?

 

Slipping clutch.
Check voltage at clutch. It must has at least 12V when engaged.
If the volage is good then the clutch is on the way to retire.
You should have the same/close voltage as measured from the battery.
If the voltage is low then replace the A/C Clutch Relay on IPM.