Well, I pulled my AC Switch/Clutch assembly this afternoon.
It was shot.
It was a good thing they had a puller in the shop or I don't think I would have gotten them off and yes the 45deg snap ring pliers were just the ticket!

All is not good???
Before I installed the new parts, I put the portion of the shot switch that has the teeth on it back on the compressor.
I tried to turn it and that was a big no-go!

My question to those of you out there, should the compressor turn by hand or is there that much pressure in the system that it would not be possible to turn it?
The mechanics/helpers in the Craft Shop couldn't answer that question.

Also, while disconnecting a switch on a line coming off the back of the compressor, to keep from possibly breaking it, the switch portion turned. It was only hand tight and I'm not sure f that vents to the atmosphere, and if this has been leaking.

 

The compressor will not free spin. That is what the clutch does is engage the belt from the motor and it takes all of that power to actually turn the compressor. I had a hard time getting everything back on there straight and had to kind of pry ad push the back part of the clutch on to the outer shaft from the compressor.

 

While any AC compressor will not spin freely you should be able to rotate the compressor by hand. This is the first test you do before hooking up gauges and attempting to recharge. If the compressor won't turn over by hand it's probably seized and isn't going anywhere.

 

I ran across an old thread on a forum that listed a re-builder in TX with great prices on compressors.
I called them. They are out of stock and not selling boxed units any longer, but the guy said the comp should turn.
I'll call thew company we got the switch from as they seel comps as well and check with them.
If needed, maybe they will let me return the switch for credit towards a comp.

 

If the compressor has seized it may have chewed it's self up spreading bits throughout the system. You will need to replace the Expansion tube and the accumulator after flushing the rest of the system. After flushing you will need to add the full amount of oil to the system as flushing will remove it all.

 

That's about what I figured.... I already have a place site bookmarked with a bunch of info on the subject.

 

I sure wouldnt think you could turn a comp over with that much pressure in the system, i could be wrong, but wouldnt think it would turn by hand, sure cant figure out why you had to touch the high pressure switch. i must say you got thing pretty toasty in there, and asume thats what smoked your bearing.

 

I'm not sure either about turning it.
As of yesterday, I know there is pressure and refrigerant in the system.
I disconnected the switch to make sure I didn't bugger it up moving the lines around while connected to the compressor.

I'm still checking things out.

I forgot to add, I found the switch pictured, loose when I went to unplug it.
I didn't take it out so I do not know if it is open to the atmosphere or not.
I tightened without taking it out to see what was behind it.

 

Seems to me you can replace that switch without loosing any refrigerant, but on the clutches I have done i never completely unbolted the comp, just removed 3 bolts so as to just tilt the comp down enough to work on it, I guess the worst case would be to put it back together and see if the comp works, probably cost you 100 dollars to find out.

 

I sent the clutch back for now.
I had to use a puller to get the originals off hence unbolting the whole comp.

My concern was if the comp is froze up, and I put the new switch and clutch on and fired it up, that it would throw the belt and take other things out with it.

I'm now wondering if maybe there is enough pressure in these systems to not allow you to turn a presurized comp by hand.
I wonder this because when the system is up and running correctly, you can feel the engine tone change as the comp engages, which makes me thing there's a butt load of force need to turn the thing..?

 

You should be able to turn the outter part of the compersor by hand. the pressure isnt that high when not in use. The change in tone comes from the change in ref. from low pressure liquid to high pressure.

 

I agree. From experience, you should be able to rotate the compressor by hand. If not, something ain't right. I'm obviously from a different train of thought from the OP. After spending this much time on an A/C compressor it's much easier to just replace the whole darned thing. I had to do so on mine only because I blew the pressure relief valve outta the back end. For a hair over $300 I replaced (new parts) the compressor, cold line (with orifice tube), and dryer. I already had guages and refrigerant. That thing will absolutely freeze me out of the cab now.

If you're like me, the inner workings of an object are fascinating!!! I'm all about finding out how things work but in the end, sometimes it's just easier to cut your losses and do a full replacement of the faulty item.

 

That's about where I'm at.
I'm going to get the system emptied and replace the same parts as well as the evap cooler, flush the system and have it charged back up.