AC performance mod
#211
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Well, the freon was low so it was recharged. Now, running at 70 mph down the highway, outside air (no recirc), she's blowin 44 deg. F air in an ambient of 91 deg. F. I'm happy, so I'll not be doing this mod.
#212
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I was looking at mine today on the 6.7 and it looks like the feed line goes directly to the firewall and the return line is what feeds the turbo. Am I wrong???
I also went to check my refrigerant charge and the dang fitting is bigger than they used to be so my guage won't fit on it!! Am I not supposed to be using the one on the front passenger side directly beside the radiator??
I also went to check my refrigerant charge and the dang fitting is bigger than they used to be so my guage won't fit on it!! Am I not supposed to be using the one on the front passenger side directly beside the radiator??
#214
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I was looking at mine today on the 6.7 and it looks like the feed line goes directly to the firewall and the return line is what feeds the turbo. Am I wrong???
I also went to check my refrigerant charge and the dang fitting is bigger than they used to be so my guage won't fit on it!! Am I not supposed to be using the one on the front passenger side directly beside the radiator??
I also went to check my refrigerant charge and the dang fitting is bigger than they used to be so my guage won't fit on it!! Am I not supposed to be using the one on the front passenger side directly beside the radiator??
If you want to do it on a water cooled turbo just get an H pipe and put it before the valve going to the heater core. That way when you shut off the supply to the heater core you will still have flow going to the turbo. That is what I have done on other vehicles and it works good. I got my H pipe from my turbo builder that swapped my Garrett T3 over to a liquid cooled center section that goes on my 75' 280z.
#215
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Join Date: Nov 2007
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the freon is checked on the valve on the refigerant line up next to the firewall on the passenger side. you were checking the high pressure side. that valve is larger for safety reasons. the smaller valve is where i previously mentioned. i just put 2 t's in and ran a line with a 3rd valve over to the turbo. super simple and works great. so, on th 6.7 it takes 3 valves. one on the heater core intake, one on the return, and one directly between the t's to let the coolant flow full circle through the turbo.
#216
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I guess I'll have to take a closer look at your pictures. It's pretty ridiculous how poorly this A/C works when you need it the most....
I'll have to go look for another fitting too. I see the one in front and one on top of the silver canister near the firewall which is too small for my guage.
I'll have to go look for another fitting too. I see the one in front and one on top of the silver canister near the firewall which is too small for my guage.
#217
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Well, the fitting on top of the silver canister is the correct one. It's just a bit tight getting the line on it but I got it on finally. I was hoping to find that my refrigerant was low but it is perfectly charged. I don't want any warranty issues so I think I'm just going to live with the poor A/C. If I start the truck about 10 minutes before leaving work then it will be fairly cool. I will also start putting my windshield shade up while I'm at work......
#218
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do the mod. if you have to take it in, throw new hoses on there. i am leaving mine as is. those ding dongs at the dealer would likely never even notice what was done. it made such a difference in my truck, that i will take the chance on warranty bs. i have tinted windows and use an eclipse sun shade all the time, but the a/c still totally sucked before this mod. now it rocks. it truely got me loving my truck again.
#220
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Dumb question. Does anyone know if you can mix the new freon R12A(which is available at Crappy tire) with the current R134A(which I think is in our systems)? Just in case the freon is low before doing the mod.
#223
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i have read every response over the last couple of days. my question may have been answered and i just missed it. so, here it goes:
i have an 04 with a 48RE. it looks like the return line from the heater core ties into a line going from the tranny to the tranny cooler (or vice versa). can this mod be done on an auto tranny with just one valve in the supply line with no damage done to the tranny?
i have a 3/4" pex valve and was going to install it this past weekend, but thought i would ask about it first.
thanks for any advice!
i have an 04 with a 48RE. it looks like the return line from the heater core ties into a line going from the tranny to the tranny cooler (or vice versa). can this mod be done on an auto tranny with just one valve in the supply line with no damage done to the tranny?
i have a 3/4" pex valve and was going to install it this past weekend, but thought i would ask about it first.
thanks for any advice!
#224
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: misplaced Idahoan stuck in Albuquerque, Roughneckin on RIG 270
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ok, i just got back from Dallas area and this fat boy from the west DON'T LIKE HUMIDITY! I had the valves open for the first 1/2 of the trip (1700 mile round trip) to monitor engine temp ect.. The valves open the temp was normal. It was 100 degreeeeeeeeees out and I have no idea what the humidity level was but I was melting! LOL... Closed the valves after I dyno'd and the temp never changed from the valves open. I also saw XLR8R's A/C mod. Get out there and do it!