ChrisJohnson

Hey jjoiner, how did the mod work out for you? You just being down the road from me, your summer temps are like mine in Corpus Christi. I only have about two thousand miles left before my warranty is up, so before I do the mod I'll be taking the truck back to the dealer for some warranty work. I'm gonna make them top off the freon and check my ball joints. I did the same thing just before my warranty went out on my 03 3500. Sure enough, ball joints were bad. Anyway, I don't want to go into the dealership bitching about crappy a/c with this mod done to it yet. They would probably void my warranty for the a/c if they saw the valves. They would probably say that mod was also responsible for ball joints going bad also, and deny that part of the warranty to!

Dan_K

I installed a valve on the return line yesterday as well. Make sure you do a thourough check for leaks.
I don't see a problem with periodically opening the 2 valves and circulating some coolant for 20 seconds. I'm under there anyway a couple times a month just to check the filter minder. Around here the valves will only be closed for July-Aug.

jjoiner

Chris, this mod is probably one of the best ones yet. Cab cools alot quicker and is colder too!
I'd say with the overhead reading 96*(which I know is wrong) the a/c used to cool down to around 48*(drawing air from outside, not recirc). Now I can get it down to around 40* still drawing air from outside.

Sad part is, we aren't even in the hottest months yet!

twisted

What do you all think of this one? If it's already posted, sorry. I didn't read every post.




http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(S...414_0069232542

BroncoAZ

Looks like the right valve in the perfect size. I haven't seen it posted earlier in the thread.

MikeyB

That's the valve I installed.

I have a picture of the valve installed on the first page of this thread.

MikeyB

DodgeCowboy

So whats the jury say on this mod? is it safe and will not ruin your heater core or will it ruin the motor from lack of fluid too the back of the head? if the answer is no too all then heck ya I will do both of them.

Hounddog

I think and may be wrong that the type coolants being used if not circulated in the heater core turn to a jell or crystals.There were some big issues with that several years back and thats the reason the manufacturer's did away with the heater control valve.That and corrosion.I hope I'm wrong and adding a shut off valve is no big deal.So tell me I don't know what I'm talking about?

MikeyB

Seen that with the OAT (Dex Cool) coolant. I had that crap in my Chevy. Easy to find the leaks though. Just look for the pink crystalized blobs.

I have yet to see HOAT (Chrysler/Ford coolant) do this. At least on my truck.

MikeyB

cbrahs

I agree with MikeyB. My Dmax (2 of them) had problems with cooling system seepage and my 96 CC dually with the 454. I have not seen a dodge do it yet.

Joe Reitman

DodgeCowboy

So whats the jury say? do it and forget about it? should I do both lines or has every one realized just the one is nuff

Highway 4x4

Has anyone asked a DC or Cummins mechanic about this?

BroncoHound

That would be just too much to hassle to switch back if you get a cold front come through or are making a trip to somewhere a little less hot. With the valves, it literally takes less than 30 seconds to go from one to the other, including opening and shutting the hood.

Do it. Both of them. If done right it is a harmless mod that will give you the benefit of a few degrees of colder air in the cab.

DodgeCowboy

Roper were you able too do both lines? if you only did the one hows it working for you on your second gen? also how much line do i need too cut or just cut it and put the valve inline