Aside from "inspections" and tire rotation, here are the main items:

Change engine oil and engine oil filter.
Lubricate outer tie rod ends 2500/3500 (4X4) models.
Replace fuel filter element. Clean the water in fuel sensor.
Change rear axle fluid.
Change front axle fluid (4X4).
Drain and refill transfer case fluid (4X4).
Drain and refill automatic transmission fluid. Replace filter
and adjust bands.

The dealer quoted $900 and change to do this. They still recommend their "fuel injector cleaning" which I believe is $130. They claim that they disconnect the fuel source and directly supply the "cleaner" with some kind of device. Does anyone know if this stuff works or is this another case of snake oil?

Doesn't $900 seem a bit high for all of this?

I really don't want to do this myself as I haven't done this type of work for a long time. I have a regular mechanic who's not a "diesel" specialist. Are there any special skills, knowledge or tools needed to do any of the above? Or should I seek out a shop that claims to be expert with diesels?

My warranty is now over. So, I have no compelling reason to have the dealer do the work. I realize that even under warranty, I could have had the work done elsewhere. But, it would have been so much simpler had something come up.

 

I don't see anything on there a regular ole mechanic shouldn't be able to handle.

 

Hardest part is the tranny, even that is not too hard...just allow yourself time so you do not end up rushing the tasks...

 

Yes the injector cleaner is real deal. Also I would let a transmission shop or Mechanic shop that has transmission flush machine do the tranny work. Changing the fluid is somewhat of a joke. You don't get near all the fluid out like that. It is much better to have a trans flush machine pull all the old fluid out and run a chemical cleaner through, then put a good new synthetic fluid in.

I would let mechanic do everything else as it's pretty simple stuff.

 

Uhmm, too bad you aren't near. I'd do everything but adjust the bands for some pizza and beer.

The list is really easy for a regular ol' mechanic who knows his way around a vehicle. There are writeups here on the forum if you want to take a look and see just what they involve.


Change engine oil and engine oil filter.$50-$100 depending on your oil type
Lubricate outer tie rod ends 2500/3500 (4X4) models. TREs are sealed. Use a neede on the end of your grease gun in you must.
Replace fuel filter element. Clean the water in fuel sensor.$15 filter and a 5-10 job. drain the can, pull out old filter and oring, drop in new filter & oring, close it up, prime and start
Change rear axle fluid. $7qt and you need 3.7(?)..get 4qts. Gasket is reuseable rubber. Super simple.
Change front axle fluid (4X4).same as rear. might have to put front end on jacks you extend the suspension a little to squeeze the socket in to get the top bolts of the diff.
Drain and refill transfer case fluid (4X4).ATF+4 IIRC. Pull the fill plug first so you KNOW you can refill it if you drain. pretty easy
Drain and refill automatic transmission fluid. Replace filter
and adjust bands.Fairly basic but can be messy dropping the pan. no clue how to adjust the bands. This would bet he service I'd far out for simply its more of a hassel for me. I've changed a few tranny fluid and filters but ehh, I can live without doing it

 

Forget the tranny flush........just change the fluids yourself. Just change the tranny fluid and filter every 20,000-30,000 miles. Forget about getting all the tranny fluid out.

 

The injector cleaner service is a waste of money. Running a good additive like Power Service or Stanadyne in the fuel will do the same thing at a fraction of the cost. Don't let any kind of flushing machine/chemical cleaner near the transmission unless you would like to buy a new one. Flushing forces the gunk through all the expensive little holes in the valve body and other important parts. Dodge products do not need any kind of chemical cleaner run through them on regular fluid changes unless the old fluid has been compromised from damage or irregular maintenance, which judging by your post isn't you. If you can find a shop that just exchanges the fluid using the transmissions own pumping ability then that's an acceptable safe method to use. Once you get new fluid in there just change the pan and filter every 20 - 30k, your trans will be fine with that. Unless your transmission isn't shifting right, don't adjust the bands. There is limited material on the bands and unless you've got problems you don't want to use up the material faster then you need to. Not to mention, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." Really I don't see anything that a regular mechanic couldn't do. Just make sure they don't over fill the axles, factory fill spec is about 3/4 - 1/2" below the fill hole with a synthetic GL-5. If the rear is lsd it doesn't need an additive. The transfer case uses ATF-4+ and not gear oil. Buy a Baldwin PF7977 fuel filter and give it to them to use for the fuel filter change, it's a better filter than you'll find anywhere else.

 

NJMurvin since you're in Simi you HAVE to take your truck to John at DPMS in Van Nuys on Sepulveda. People will come from 100's of miles to have him work on his truck. He's extremely reasonable and knows *** he's doing.

http://www.dpsdirect.com/main_contact_us.cfm

You can thank me later.

 

don't even think about using a chemical to "clean" the trans. I have seen WAY too many tranny's start PUKING oil after a "flush" with that many miles on it. just like annabelle said, drop the pan and do it that way and do it every 30k miles like the book says to. trans flush's are ok in some scenarios but I won't even sell one to our customers and steer them clear of it when/if they ask for one.

 

here is a bulletin from Chrysler about flushes

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d-t290896.html

 

Thanks, everyone!

mkinla - I will definitely contact DPS and find out if they offer routine maintenance like this.