I just joined the forum and a couple of others in hopes that someone out there may have already seen this trouble. My truck is completely stock (stock radio, everything) with 2 new batteries. In Sept. I started driving the truck less, it now sits for a week at a time. After 4-5 days the batteries are too dead to start the truck. The first time it happened I replaced batteries but the problem remains.

When the temperature outside is above 70, a parasitic current drain starts that fluctuates between 1 and 2 amps continuously. The measured drain when there is no problem is 27mA.

I isolated the draw to the IOD circuit. It looks like the CCN never goes to sleep. The drain is very similar to what happens when you open the door with the interior lights off. Opening and Closings the door caused a draw of 2amps for 15 sec, followed by a drop to 1amp for 15 sec, followed by a slight drop to .8amp, then finally to 27ma where it remains when all is working properly.

Here is a youtube video of the problem. I was just filming the example current draw when opening and closing the door when the actual problem condition started up shortly after while the camera was running.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tLZdvWXBJVM

I took it to the local dealer who on the first visit replaced the CCN. However since the problem is intermittent, I don't think they were able to test what they did and gave the truck back to me. I took it back a week later after the batteries were once again dead. I took it back in. They kept it for a week and were unable to reproduce the 2/1amp draw. I picked up the truck and was able to reproduce it in my driveway the next day.

I think it is temperature related as I am unable to recreate the problem when it is below 65 deg outside. I also think that it is the sun heating the cabin up that is causing something to malfunction. Using an infrared thermometer i measure the dash at 85, the overhead console at 100. But when it is cloudy I have not been able to observe the problem.

For now I am pulling the IOD fuse until i need to drive the truck. With the fuse out there is only a 1.2mA draw.


The multimeter in the video is on the 10amp Scale in series with the negative battery terminal and cable on the driver side battery. The passenger battery is disconnected.


IOD Fuse #11 in the TIPM Labeled (IOD_CCN/Radio /Underhood Lamps / WCN /SDARS /HFM)

Thanks for any thoughts and help on this,

Dave

 

Its common for electrical issues to get worse with heat .
Just one more reason why I prefer older trucks / cars , the chain is only as strong as the weakest link , the more links , the more things to fail .
Letting batteries go dead , quickly shortens the life of batteries , so when this is fixed , it needs new batteries .
Get the shop to leave the truck under the same conditions as what you mentioned .
Are they calling this warranty work ?
Some times its cheaper [ labor ] to just swap parts [ for the dealer ] than to have a true technician find & fix the problem .

 

Two things to check. The underhood lamp (if you have one) and the glove box lamp. Fill out your signature so we can see what you have and be able to give a constructive diagnoses.

 

Do you leave the key in it for extended periods. That's know to run the batteries down.

Pete

 

Thanks for the thoughts. There is no hood lamp or glove box lamp. And I don't leave the keys in the ignition. It's almost out of warranty, I'm just waiting on the dealer to let me know when they will work on it. The truck is an 06' SLT 5.9L with 35,000 mi. Its the lonestar edition so its got Sirrius radio with an expired subscription

While I was searching the web for a similar situation I did see the threads regarding keys left in ignition, glove box lamps, and under hood lamps. I actually took the glove box completely out. I couldn't believe there was no lamp in there. But there isn't. I even checked the cab at night looking for a light to be on somewhere but no luck.

I built a webpage this morning to make it easier for the dealer when they call with my appointment, hopefully soon.

www.fullcirclecycle.com/dodge.html

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2006 Dodge 5.9L Quad Cab Long Bed, Stock Radio, Stock Tires, Stock Exhaust, Stock Intake, Stock Suspension, Stock Computer. Oh ya, Its white.

 

Most of the time with the battery draining down over time it is simple. You just have to look for it in the obvious places first or else you will miss it.

 

With all the computer controls on these trucks, I wonder why there isn't more issues like this. My horn would start blowing in the middle of the night untill I pulled the fuse. Burnt out the cheap horns. Fixed it with a new FCM for $242 and horns for $35. Lasted for 3 months, now it's doing it again. If it goes out again a fter I fix it I will wire around the FCM. Let us know how they fix your truck.

Pete

 

When it's acting up, I would try pulling fuses or disconnecting devices till the draw drops to narrow down where the problem is. I don't know much about Dodges, but when I made my living on Audi the switches in the door latches tended to be flaky. The latches in my truck look similar to the junk Audi used.
Ted

 

Thanks Ted,

The draw is the IOD Fuse #11 in the TIPM Labeled (IOD_CCN/Radio /Underhood Lamps / WCN /SDARS /HFM) Circuit

I've tried pulling the Seatbelt, Mirror, Doorlatch, ignition, etc. None of the other fuses in that main fuse panel make any difference. I'm wondering if there isn't another panel somewhere that might split up the devices on the IOD circuit or that powers devices not connected to the main panel.

 

Dealer took it in on December 26. They provided me with a loaner truck as well.

Dealer called on Monday January 5, said truck was fixed. They replaced the headlamp switch and the overhead console module. Technician isolated using current draw tests on various modules. He saw fluctuations in either voltage or amps (not sure which). I kind of thought the problem might be identifiable using the starscan tool but the tech indicated it did not identify any codes or issues.

They replaced the overhead / headlamp modules on Wednesday of last week. Truck was placed outside in the sun and temps over the weekend reached 80+. They tested battery voltages and they were good on Sunday and Monday so they are calling it fixed for now.

If the problem was still present they would have had dead batteries for sure by Monday. So I'm going to watch it for the next few days but if it makes it through a couple of sunny 70 deg days I will be more confident that it is fixed.

Basically they unplugged the overhead module and the CCN went back to sleep. I think the fluctuation's in readings from the headlamp switch caused them to replace it for good measure as well.

I can't say enough good things about Benny Boyd in Lampassas, TX. The service department was awesome. They were very interested in helping me and solving the problem from the beginning. Paul the service manager and Mark the tech are both outstanding I definitely recommend the drive from Austin. http://www.bennyboydcdj.com/index.htm

I'll update the thread if the problem returns, thanks again for those who gave me some thoughts!

-Dave

 

Glad you got it fixed. Tricky electrical issue take time and a boat load of patience.

 

Definately glad you got that fixed. I hate electrical problems, time and patience, neither of them I have.

What is the conditions of your batteries after being run down so many times? I'd seriously be looking at Dodge covering a new set.

 

Hi Sno,

I had replaced the batteries when the trouble first occurred. Should have remembered the easy way out rarely works. The batteries are working fine. I haven't load tested them, but I figure starting that Cummings up when its 33deg outside ought to be enough.

I was concerned about them getting cycled too much but I don't really have any clue as to how much too much is, unless they loose a cell or something. The new ones have a full replacement for 3 years i think so it shouldn't be an issue.

I'm just keeping my fingers crossed that the problems gone.

I did check on an extended warranty since I had 500mi left on the initial. $2500 to take it to 100K. Since the KBB has the truck at 14-17K if figure I'll be able to just replace it for that in another 25Kmiles