$$$$$$$$ problem
#1
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$$$$$$$$ problem
I was replacing my front u joints and my rotors & pads, & bearing assembly needed replaced too. I ran out of funds & my back brakes still need done. Rotors are around $100 each for the back, any of ya'll know where I could get them cheaper?
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I say even if they're grooved, run `em. The pads wear into the grooves and then you have more surface area contact for braking.
The only time I turn rotors is if they are warped but then you're usually fighting a losing battle before they warp again. Replace only when they are too thin.
The only time I turn rotors is if they are warped but then you're usually fighting a losing battle before they warp again. Replace only when they are too thin.
#5
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I've run new pads on grooved rotors too. The new pads conform quickly, no biggie. No worse than having old pads on grooved rotors. I have 100,000 miles now and haven't looked at my brakes yet.
#7
It's my pot and I'll stir it if I want to. If you're not careful, I'll stir your's as well!
I never turn a rotor on any vehicle unless there is some form of pulsation on the brake pedal.
Got 123,000 plus miles on my brakes. The rears still have the original pads. Did the front at just under 100,000 miles.
Got 123,000 plus miles on my brakes. The rears still have the original pads. Did the front at just under 100,000 miles.
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#8
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I also never turn a rotor unless there is a pulsation in the pedal (warped rotors) I will just use a 100 grit sanding disc on my air drill to scuff up the rotors and clean of the glazing from the rotors. This also helps the new pads to seat in faster.
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