If you are refering to the 2 metal wires, on the passnager side of the eng that is not where the EGR valve is. That changes it from cooled to non cooled egr. The place you block in right at the intake manifold.
Polaraco, don't mean to disagree with you but.
QUOTE"You can make the plates and shove a 1 1/8 freeze plug in the end of the cross over tube. A thin piece of aluminum flashing is all you need under the EGR. Just unplugging it is plenty. You can't just block off the base of the EGR without the tube block. " UNQUOTE
I have only blocked the egr at the base of the valve with thin sheet metal. No freeze plug in the tube. I have seen this done and it is Sooooo not necessary! 9 months at least of running it this way and have never had a problem and you can't even tell but for the unplugged connector. Is there something else I don't know here??? OR do I need more coffee?

 

OK. . . Not going to argue with you, I've been on this for over 4 months daily. Tried different things, saw different things. Give it time. You'll see.

The cross over has to be blocked if you plate the EGR.

All the research is on the other site. All 89 pages of it. Start reading

 

So the best way to do it for a quick fix is to unplug the EGR,correct? Do you have to plug the coolant ports? Does it hurt anything if you don't? What is involved in taking the butterfly out?

 

Not arguing just want to know why? Mine isn't and hasn't been for 9 months. Really, really want to know why. it is blocking the same thing! Are we talking the same place????
BTW I have been also, just not here on this thread. Always ready to learn something new, I just don't understand why it would require 2 block off points in the same tube.
Confused.

 

Just unplugging it is good. It's not the best, but a far site better than leaving it working.

The exhaust pressure is obviously greater than the intake. The EGR valve on the pick ups is a stepper motor. The stepper operates a spring loaded poppet valve. The pressure is great enough to let the condensation and soot bleed out of the valve by pushing against the spring. It looked like there would be a very slight amount of condenastion if you drove around town at 25 or so, and a very small amount of soot build up. That was in 200 miles. Nothing to worry about. But at 200 miles on the highway and mixed faster driving, the valve had one tiny dot of condensation in it, and no soot build up at all. That's what I am looking for. Granted you make less soot at higher speeds, but that is not reality.

After about 600 miles of having the EGR blocked off at the base, the soot and condensation built up and started to sludge. It wasn't a huge amount, but it was enough to realize the tube has to be blocked. Let that go for 30 or 40,000 miles and you'll have a pot hole control in there. It will be filled with this tar substance. You think soot is hard to get off your hands, wait until you try to get that stuff off.

I was not the first person to discover this first. I started on the EGR over 9 months ago. When I saw what the other person had, I started looking for why and how to prevent it and still maintain a stock look. I know of two others who had the same tar condition with just the H & S delete. So I shoved a 1 1/8 freeze plug in the cross over pipe and drove it 3500 miles. Clean as a whistle. The EGR was removed completely.

I drove 8000 miles on my 08 truck and did all the same things again on this truck. My 07 is in Chrysler heavan now. I repeated the same tests to confirm what I had. However, I went to Florida where it was in the 90's. I started to experience problems with running in the hot climate. When I got to my destination, I was able to scrape some tools together and take the flapper out. Never had any more trouble, but I came back home too.

My 08 has 9600 miles on it now in 9 weeks. I'm averaging 16 around town and 22 on the highway. The trick is to get the intake temp as low as possible. I have taken the intake temps from 160-170 to 70-80F. Can't do much better than that!

 

Thanks for the explanation. since mine has been blocked for about 10k miles now, I think I will go check it out tomorrow morning. I have gone all summer in the hot southern calif climate, so if it is going to happen it will be there. I will report on what I find. Hope it isn't the tar pits in there.
And again, thanks for "Spainin."

 

Hmmm, I didn't block my X-over tube either since H&S didn't include that piece with my delete kit. Maybe I will check mine out too. I have about 2000 miles on my deletes now with no real problems. Seems simple enough to throw a freezeplug in that tube though...
And I can testify that Polaraco has done a lot more in depth testing than most of the rest of us. Some of this stuff in far more in-depth than I want to think about and I will just take his word for it. If you are on the fence about unplugging this thing JUST DO IT!! The worst that will happen is that your truck acts strange and then you can just plug it back in. If I had a brand new turbo I wouldn't think twice about this. I had to go buy a spare turbo which I intend to disassemble and clean just in case my sooted up turbo ever gives me problems...

 

Polaraco, wouldn't the sludge just accumulate right in front of the crossover tube once you block it off? It seems to me that you are going to have the sludge in one part of your egr system one way or another unless you do a complete delete. What would be nice would be to block off the EGR side of the tube and then install some sort of drain in the tube. I wonder if that is too far fetched? Either that or block off the tube on the EGR side and just plan on cleaning that sludge out every couple months or at every oil change. Still a small price to pay for the gains we are recieving......

 

Hey Mike did you ever get ahold of Holset and ask them about how much they would charge for a full disassembly and cleaning if you sent them the VGT?

 

Not yet. I just got my spare turbo the other day though. I think I called them about the stocker for my 07 and they wanted around $450 to "Rebuild" it. I would bet this one would be more since it's a lot more complicated. I will contact them today and let you know. I really don't want to spend that kind of money regardless if I can take my time and clean it up myself....

 

Mike

We discussed that somewhere back in page ahhh 22,021 over on the dark side. That was where some wise guy came in, and we yelled at him. The moderators took out the findings I had *****Polaraco makes mental note. . .Never scold anyone in the same threat with important shtuff*****
Byt someone else had a picture of the sludge he collected in 400 miles on the H & S delete. That's why the Shibby delete is better. We were working on an H & S version with the plug.

 

Very funny, but I am afraid they have gotten even with you Polaraco, I just happened to notice your post count is stuck at 27.

 

Well, I'm not going back through 1100 posts to find that info. That must have been posted on one of those days when I was using my speed reading abilities to only gather important info. That one must have slipped through the cracks.
I guess I had better just go get a freeze plug and get it installed..

And I have some cracks in my asphalt drive that need filling. I could always just unhook the crossover tube and pour the goo into the cracks....

 

I contacted one Turbo rebuilder and he said he hasn't had one of those in his shop yet and he says parts aren't even available. He can't even quote a price until he gets one in hand to pull apart. I e-mailed another turbo place really close to me and am awaiting his response. Getting ahold of Holset is not that easy. All I get is links to other sites when I go there.....

 

My 6.7 has several thousands of miles on it with the crossover gone and plates on where the egr was. Butterfly is gone too. My first set of stainless plates where only 1/8" thick. Under load...towing, I got a whistle...they got replaced with 3/8" thick aluminum plates and new gaskets. No problems with a leak there anymore. I realized I had left out a part on the crossover at the passenger side when I discovered splattered black crud on the area around the piece of stainless I used to block that end. Dummy me left out that flange that seals the factory pipe...I put that in there with the stainless plate and no more splatter of crud.
I am around 104,000 miles on the truck. I have to look at my notes but I think theres close to half or more of that without the egr...more without the dpf and pcv. I am looking at taking the egr cooler off so I have a good supply of coolant for heating the tank in the trucks bed.

Good reading, good results for me...overall 46% improvement on mpg from stock and that equates to less wasted fossil fuels and I am still burning fairly clean.
I had the ETC light once and cleared it. [lightening bolt] Have the regular codes for my dpf delete...however, if I clear them before I start out on the road...the engine light stays off til I idle around. No power mods on the truck either.

Scotty

p.s. With regards to the pcv...a puke bottle from a 2nd gen will be going on the end of mine as I found some small drips by the turbo from the hose.