Heavy Driver

Has anyone removed the turbo themselves?

I have a 2008 3500. I have been having problems where the truck loses power like it's getting choked (with P226B - Boost Pressure High- Mechanical). After looking at the VGT position while driving (using AutoEnginuity) I found that it sometimes goes to the full open position when it's commanded to be closed. I expected the AutoEnginuity software to show the VGT position go to the closed position, since the code P226B is for High Boost but I have not seen that since I started recording it with the AutoEnginuity software. However, I have not experienced one of these events while recording, so I am not entirely sure what's going on. Either way, my guess is that the turbine is dirty, and it's sticking. So, I want to pull it out to clean it.

The service manual procedure for removing the turbo (I pasted an excerpt below) requires draining the coolant, removing the right hand engine mount after lifting the engine ("slightly"), and a special wrench for the turbo, among other things.

I imagined removing it was possible without lifting the engine. Has anyone done this?A


Thanks in advance.


The steps for the turbo removal and engine mount removal are below just for reference.


Turbocharger Removal - 6.7L DIESEL

Disconnect the battery negative cables.
Drain coolant.
Remove air filter housing.
Remove charge air cooler inlet tube at turbocharger inlet.
Disconnect turbocharger speed sensor electrical connector.
Disconnect turbocharger actuator electrical connector.
Remove turbocharger oil supply line.
Remove turbocharger coolant lines at engine block.
Remove RH engine mount.
Remove exhaust steady rest bracket from transmission.
Remove V-clamp from turbocharger exhaust outlet.
Remove turbocharger drain tube mounting bolts at turbocharger. Remove tube from cylinder block.
Lower vehicle.
Using Tool 9866, remove turbocharger mounting nuts.
Remove turbocharger from vehicle.



Engine Mount Removal - Front

Disconnect the battery negative cables.
Remove the viscous fan/drive assembly.
Raise vehicle on hoist.
Install engine support fixture tool# 8534 and steel bracket tool # 8534A
Loosen the thru-bolt and nut.
Lift the engine SLIGHTLY and remove the insulator to block bolts.
Remove the RH mount from the engine.
Remove the LH insulator from the vehicle.

BigIron70

I have removed more turbo's then I care to remember, not a big deal but I do not following the recommended removal procedure. I do not remove engine mount, turbo can be removed without doing that. Would take too much time and Chrysler only pays me about 2 hours to do this job. I remove the 4 studs which is the only reason they want you to remove mount and the viscous fan and raise engine to clear studs. Takes me about 5 minutes per stud to remove. Why don't you just try doing a turbo clean first? If code is setting you can perform cleaning procedure using wiTECH. Much cheaper then removing to clean turbo. There should be a cleaning port on turbo, if not then you will need to drill and tap one. Special miller tool is needed or you can pay some tech at Chrysler to do the procedure. I have done 100's and take about 1 hour to do. I special jig is bolted to turbo to properly align drill and then tap to cut threads. Care must be taking not to get medal chips into turbo.. Here is cleaning procedure

Heavy Driver

Thanks for the reply.

Are there any clearance issues getting the turbo out?


I want to remove the turbo myself, instead of having the dealer or a shop do it. But to answer your question:
The turbo doesn't have the cleaning port. I have the procedure for installing it (at least the one from AllData), but it seems like a solution chrysler developed to address multiple cleanings in a timely manner. My intention is to clean it once, do the DPF & EGR deletes, and hopefully not have to clean it again.

You mentioned using the WiTECH for the cleaning also -- I don't have one.

---

So check this out:

I came across the California extended emissions warranty - which I did not know about. Since I live in CA I took the truck to the dealer. They said the same thing: The turbo is dirty. Their WiTECH recommended a cleaning. However, they are telling me that when they ran the Labor Operation the computer came back saying the cleaning itself is not covered, but a full turbo replacement is. Of course they won't replace the turbo since the WiTECH is recommending the cleaning (~$700). They asked me to call the Corp Customer Support line to plead my case. As of now I've spent $150 to be told something I already knew.

I am going to call and see if I can get Chrysler to cover the cleaning or see if I can convince the Serv Mgr to replace the turbo. Either way, if the turbo is just dirty, it seems like the best solution is to clean it and do the deletes.

Any thoughts?

BigIron70

The turbo is a tight fit getting out, but it will come out the top, some vehicles it can be removed out the wheel well. I cannot believe they would not replace your turbo for you. I have done the cleaning and most trucks return with the code P2262 in 500 miles again but there are some exceptions. After the turbo clean is done the test will run again to check if the cleaning was successful, if not then the turbo needs to be replaced.

Heavy Driver

Yeah it's a bit aggravating having to call the Copr Cust Supt tomorrow.

If I cannot get them to cover the cleaning/replacement, would you recommend trying to remove the turbo and clean it or going with the spray method. I ask because the cleaning kit to drill/tap is not cheap.

BigIron70

You located in Southern Cal?

Heavy Driver

Northern

Heavy Driver

After nearly a month I got Chrysler to agree to pay for the cleaning. They kept arguing its not covered by the warranty but they did agree to pay me for the work - so that's good. If/when I end up removing it ill be sure to do a write up with pics.