Gents,

I was attempting to install an EGT probe in the exhaust manifold right above the turbine intake when the bit decided to commit suicide (I am sure I was pressing too hard) and broke off. It was the 1/8" bit, for the pilot hole.

I am confident that the bit is stuck inside the manifold wall, instead of having fallen into the turbo. That said, I am not gonna drive the truck until I get the 1"-ish remaining bit out of there.

My thoughts are to remove the turbo, and then continue drilling to get the broken bit out, but I wanted to see what you all thought....any ideas?


Edit:

Is it possible to remove the four bolts that connect the turbo to the exhaust manifold, and lower it enough to slide a rag there to cover it and then drill the bit out? It would be nice not to have to remove the whole turbo....

 

The drill bit will be tool steel, meaning it's super hard and not easily drilled, but also brittle. But if you pull the turbo, and get hold of the stuck section, you should be able to break the bit off and remove it. Hitting it from the top might shatter that bit, but much better to be able to do that if you can get to it from the side.

Slow and steady wins the race when it comes to this stuff. It took me around an hour or so when I drilled and tapped mine.

Can you see the bit at all when you look in the pilot hole?

 

If you penetrated the manifold wall you can pull the turbo try knocking it in with a small drift.
Then drill it out and tap it with the turbo off.
As stated above, take your time, use some cutting oil and don't force anything.

Also if the probe instructiions give you a coice of a smaller or larger final drill bit size use the larger of the two. My edge probe instructions had two different final drill sizes and I chose the standard size since it was readily available. I should have ordered the larger one as it made tapping it a real bear.

 

Jrs,
Yes I can see the tail end of it.

Xcc,
Thanks. Yeah I ordered the 21/64" bit so that'll help.

I don't think I need to remove the turbo entirely. The plan was to lower just a enough to slide a rag over it, use a punch and hammer to get the broken bit out, then continue drilling/tapping until the project is done.

The instructions I got on removing the turbo said to,

"drain the coolant if you have a 6.7. then remove the oil feed line to turbo and coolant lines, unplug the turbo speed sensor and the actuator connector. remove two bolts at the turbo bracket to bell housing, remove two bolts for oil drain tube, remove turbo clamp at the outlet pipe. remove turbo boost hose at turbo outlet. remove both battery ground cables at the battery. turbo is tight fit but it will come out the top. "

Will I be able to lower without doing all that?

 

Holy crap, I had no idea they put all of that stuff on the turbo. Way more stuff than my turbo.

Biggest risk is having a piece lodge in the exhaust turbine, and jamming it. If it were mine, I would pull the turbo completely and get everything out. With the turbo off you be able to get the next set of drill cuttings and tap shavings out too.

 

Yea I totally agree. I nearly had it off at 10:00 this morning, but I ran into a problem with the back left bolt (aft, drivers side): I can't get a grip on it with the wrench - the firewall is in the way. I even took a wrench and bent it but no luck. I tried removing the coolant hoses too, still no luck. I am considering ordering the $50 turbo wrench "Miller Tool 9866" - I just don't want to wait 3 days for it to get here.

How have you guys gotten that bolt off?

 

Well I got it all done.

The turbo removal and install was a little challenging, for different reasons. I plan on doing a writeup soon on my mistakes and lessons learned. Hopefully someone can gain something from it.

I found the 1" of the drill bit that broke - I'd be willing to bet it would've done damage to the turbine blades - once I saw how big it was, I was super glad I got it.

The EGT probe is finally installed (with an Edge Insight, all for the EGR, & DPF and NOX delete).

Getting serious about doing the Mag-Hytec diff & oil pan installs as well as the charged air cooler, and intake air filter and housing (not sure what company yet).

I never bothered to care about the air cooler or air filter housing -- but after removing the turbo and trying to get those things to seat properly, I think there's a better way to do it. It probably isn't worth the money in the short term, but the time spent getting the charge cooler hose to get/stay connected, and the pain with the housing being so extremely large, might make it worth it in the long run. I guess it depends on how much someone is down working on that side.

Either way, thanks for the input. I owe BigIron70 the biggest thanks for the help with the turbo removal. I'll try to get the writeup soon.

Here's the broken DeWalt 1/8" bit:

 

Good to hear you got the broken piece out. The hardest part of entire job I think is lifting turbo out of engine compartment. Good job, glad to be of some help to you.

 

I have find that it can be faster at times to remove the turbo and manifold together and then separate them if the turbo to manifold nuts are seized. The manifold can quickly be unbolted with an impact gun. I usually use an engine crane to lift it out as its a bit much for one person.

 

Hey guys, I don't have a lot of experience with pulling turbos and the like as my '08 6.7 ltr is the first one I've owned, but I do have experience with tapping holes where you don't want shavings falling in where they don't belong such as a cylinder or turbo. I've learned to use anti-sieze liberally on the tap threads and in the flutes. Not only does it lube better than cutting oil, but it also catches all the shavings. Just back the tap out every so often to clean off the shavings and re-goop. My EGT probe install for my Edge Attitude went off without a hitch.