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Dealer says new turbo needed

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Old 03-03-2013, 11:41 AM
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Dealer says new turbo needed

Hey guys. One of my work trucks (07 Megacab 6.7 auto) has been throwing some codes and a little low on power. We took it to the dealer and they said we need to replace the turbo. They said the code was for low boost pressure. They said they cannot clean the turbo because the service port is rusted and not servicable any more. Another dealership said they could remove the turbo to try to drill the port out but could not garuntee anything. They both want about 2700 for a new turbo. Hell no I said obviously. What are my choices. Is there a good company out there that I can buy a reman from. Do you think I can take the turbo off and clean it myself. I have no problem drilling something out like that and retapping if I have to. Once I either clean my turbo or replace it I think I may do the deletes to prevent this again.

I guess my main question is who out there sells these turbos rebuilt or is there an aftermarket that will bolt right up if I can't clean mine.

Thanks.
Old 03-03-2013, 11:43 AM
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Oh, forgot to mention. The truck has 110,000 miles on it.
Old 03-03-2013, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by nyctry96
Hey guys. One of my work trucks (07 Megacab 6.7 auto) has been throwing some codes and a little low on power. We took it to the dealer and they said we need to replace the turbo. They said the code was for low boost pressure. They said they cannot clean the turbo because the service port is rusted and not servicable any more. Another dealership said they could remove the turbo to try to drill the port out but could not garuntee anything. They both want about 2700 for a new turbo. Hell no I said obviously. What are my choices. Is there a good company out there that I can buy a reman from. Do you think I can take the turbo off and clean it myself. I have no problem drilling something out like that and retapping if I have to. Once I either clean my turbo or replace it I think I may do the deletes to prevent this again.

I guess my main question is who out there sells these turbos rebuilt or is there an aftermarket that will bolt right up if I can't clean mine.

Thanks.
You mentioned low power. Are you having any lag when you accelerate? Did the dealership even bother to put shop air and check for leaks before assuming it was the turbo? FYI, a boost sensor code doesn't necessarily mean you have a turbo issue. These ECM's on these trucks are real finicky at times. I am dealing with the same thing and my turbo is fine.

I am truly amazed how dealerships and some people jump and point out things before doing all basic tests first. Let me know and we can go from there. Hate to see you toss a lot of money away and it could be one little thing causing it.
Old 03-03-2013, 11:54 AM
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P.S. If I listened to half of what was assumed on these diesel sites also or stealerships, I would flat go broke. lmao Just being honest.
Old 03-03-2013, 11:58 AM
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I doubt they did the shop air test. Explain how to do this and I'll test it myself. I can't trust them anyway. Where do I introduce air into the system and what psi? What do I need to listen for? etc, etc

Thanks
Old 03-03-2013, 12:01 PM
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Another thing the truck will do from time to time is (what sounds and feels like) throws the exaust brake on for a split second. You'll be driving along and all of a sudden it feels like the brake comes on for just a second and then is fine again.
Old 03-03-2013, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by nyctry96
I doubt they did the shop air test. Explain how to do this and I'll test it myself. I can't trust them anyway. Where do I introduce air into the system and what psi? What do I need to listen for? etc, etc

Thanks
On my 2005, I bought an air leak tester from http://www.turboboostleaktesters.com/servlet/StoreFront

Call Dave up and tell him your situation. He's very helpful and a nice guy to deal with.

Now on getting air in the system.

1. I put the tester on the turbo inlet and clamped it down with the clamp I bought with tester.

2. I hooked up air with a regulator and used about 20 psi.

3. Get some soapy water in a spray bottle and start squirting around the hoses and clamps. You will find bubbles forming or it will be sucked in if there is a leak.

Also, you can take it a little over 20 psi just to see if any noise is present. You will hear air wisping if there is a leak. I think my regulator was off some. Private message me if you have anymore questions
Old 03-03-2013, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by nyctry96
Another thing the truck will do from time to time is (what sounds and feels like) throws the exaust brake on for a split second. You'll be driving along and all of a sudden it feels like the brake comes on for just a second and then is fine again.
Since I don't have an exhaust brake on my truck, I am not sure. I would start by checking all the electrical first. The brake won't come on unless something is triggering it kind of like a gun doesn't shoot people unless someone pulls the trigger. Sorry, this gun bs has me livid.
Old 03-03-2013, 01:04 PM
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One other thing, if you order one, remove the oil cap during testing. I never found in the cummins shop manual to remove during testing, but I did just in case.
Old 03-03-2013, 07:31 PM
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The manifold pressure sensor (MAP) is located right behind the egr valve on the intake horn. One torx screw holds it on, and a can of MAF sensor cleaner will clean it up. Brake cleaner has been used by some folks. Let it air dry or very low pressure air. What type of driving do you do, city or highway? If most of your driving is city, a good highway run may help to clean the turbo. Use the exhaust brake as much as possible too. If you haven't cleaned the EGR valve, it might be a good time to take care of that also. Hope this helps.
Old 03-03-2013, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Gatorama
The manifold pressure sensor (MAP) is located right behind the egr valve on the intake horn. One torx screw holds it on, and a can of MAF sensor cleaner will clean it up. Brake cleaner has been used by some folks. Let it air dry or very low pressure air. What type of driving do you do, city or highway? If most of your driving is city, a good highway run may help to clean the turbo. Use the exhaust brake as much as possible too. If you haven't cleaned the EGR valve, it might be a good time to take care of that also. Hope this helps.
It's mostly city driving. I'll clean the MAP sensor and take it for a good drive. That's a good idea, I forgot about that. It probably doesn't get driven long enough for a good re-gen.

Thanks
Old 03-04-2013, 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by nyctry96
It's mostly city driving. I'll clean the MAP sensor and take it for a good drive. That's a good idea, I forgot about that. It probably doesn't get driven long enough for a good re-gen.

Thanks
Or you can delete all that crap they stick on there too if that is the exact problem. If you do remove all the emissions parts, be sure to save everything. Some states don't even have inspections or check for emissions, but god forbid, that ever becomes a law in every state, some people are going to wish they never tossed the parts. The cat alone is almost 2k. <----that's Edit Post back so we know what the final issue was.
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