He said it was from the intake horn. That would be pre-restriction.

 

I asked erik if he had seen anything like it and he told me that he also seen about a 3 or 4 psi jump in boost pressure on some of the trucks that he installed the spacer on ???

 

I've noticed that without the delete, the engine seems to rev up immediately after starting for about 1 second. Maybe a little puff of smoke, and that's it. These are temps between 20-25*

 

Mine will definitely stumble and smoke when it's cold out, but it has always started.

 

do you guys think plugging in the block heater would fix the rough cold start problem? i was thinking it may not because its not really heating the intake air, its only heating the block correct? i guess i could give it a try and see.

 

I think it will greatly reduce the rough starting.

 

The boost increase I mentioned was with the horn and delete installed. Its a bit counterintuitive though, as greater volume should mean lower pressure, but i got an extra 3-5 peak PSI out of mine after those mods. I measure boost with a boost bolt and X-Monitor.

 

I agree with you, and I found the same results you mention here. I didn't do the grid delete, left it in. But, the twins spool faster and higher. I didn't expect that given the increase was supposed to only be good from 1700-2100 rpm. I should think that the extra 3-5 peak boost will result in a little more peak hp?

 

I leave mine plugged in and with my bid injectors little to no smoke. And no codes yet

 

27* F this Morning after being plugged in, started just fine ran just fine.
I still got the heater but its just disconnected to see if I get a code.
Well ,yes I did.

Hopefully my delete and intake horn will be here this week so I can feel what ya'll are feeling.

 

I wonder why i haven't gotten a code yet? I ran my grid disconnected for about a month and ive been running the delete fore a few weeks now?

 

If you really need a code I can do a voodoo hex and send you mine.

 

It's been awhile since I messed with low voltage stuff, but if there is a code being thrown, can someone get the resistance the the grid heater has and after you remove it, jump the wires with a resitor to mimic it?? May be a time issue also.

 

i was also thinking of using a resistor to fool the ecm, but i dont know much about electrical stuff....however i think in my service manual it shows how to test the grid by checking resistance so i will take a look.

 

all the grid tests just say the resistance should be less than 10 ohms, but thats just to make sure theres not too much resistance for the power to travel through such as a bad cable or broken connection.....so im back where i started. the grid works by power coming in one end and being grounded at the other end causing the elements to heat up correct?