I had a gift card burning a hole in my pocket and woke up with nothing to do...

So I decided I'd yank the MPC (as Geno's garage calls it - never seen it called that anywhere else though...) and make my own "eliminator" pipe.

It's not as pretty as the ones you pay for, but I'm out $4.63 (not counting the gift card - hey it was this or air filters for the house...) for it. Some black paint and it might not scream homemade as loudly. Anyhow, the turbo sings sweet melodies to me now. Much happier. Over the last couple of months, I've killed the cat, deleted the muffler, removed my "mpc" (anyone know what that stands for anyway?), and lost my silencer ring somewhere along the way.

Theoretically PVC should conduct less heat than steel/aluminum too, right?

 

As long as you retained the laminar flow vanes in the compressor inlet, you're fine... don't let the PVC get too close to the manifold though - it doesn't fare well with heat.

 

Yessir. Left the TAG alone. Assuming that's what you're referring to...

As for pvc, think I should shield it somehow or just keep an eye on it? Maybe wrap it with something?

I still gotta make it by your shop when you guys get all moved in an settled.

 

Should be OK with >1/2" clearance.

 

Yea I think the idea is don't let the manifold and PVC meet at any time. You could use header wrap but it is pricey. I think you'd be fine. If anything buy another one and keep it handy just in case. Then you'd be out a whopping $9.26!

 

On mine I simply removed the inner baffle tube and re-cemented the MPC together...looks factory. And yes, I too consider the turning vanes important(as an A/C technician, i do know the importance of keeping the incoming airflow smooth.)

 

Header wrap you say... You just reminded me that I've had a 50'x2" roll of DEI header wrap stuffed in a box in the garage for the last 4 years without a good home... Think that would make for decent insurance? Or would it retain heat after a while?

As for making another one, if the first one melts then I have a problem. Plus I'm all out of gift cards...

 

Just measured - it was ~3/4" to the heat shield at the closest point. I don't know how much movement there is during operation and/or shutdown...

 

I saw a post and thought I would try the same. I popped off the cap (cracking sound and all) and thought there would be more of a lip that I could re-cement. What type of cement should I use? I'd be more inclined to carry the gutted stocker around as a spare for a while. But I sure wouldn't want it leaking and sucking any dirt in

Also, why didn't they put turning vanes in the top elbow? Anybody know?

 

I think header wrap would insulate well considering it would be pvc pipe. Now on a piece of aluminum it may aid in retaining heat.

 

Does this look any better?

 

1) ABS cement.

2) There'd be no point using turning vanes ahead of the cross baffle.

 

?I have my PVC intake with 1/4" of my manifold with NO problems at all. About a month and a half now, and I watch it close. Not even began to melt.

 

Looks professional to me

 

As for the baffle...no need to remove any of the end caps. I used a hacksaw blade and cut 2 of the baffles from end to end with the blade through the tube, then removed the rest of the baffles and cleaned all shaving out. No gluing required.

I do like the thought of straight pipe with 0 restrictions however...and yes I agree to leave the directional vans in the bottom section in to aid in smoother airflow.