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Traction bars(pics)

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Old 11-01-2008, 03:48 AM
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Originally Posted by SlowSixSpeed
Which bars do you reccomend for the ocasional drag racer w/ 550whp and a 6 speed manual. I might pull once a year.

Drag, Lazar, Lazar II, sled?

Thanks


Mike told me to just pick based on looks only because they will all do a great job. http://www.lazarsmith.com/tractionbars.html

I agree with the comments earlier in this thread about the traction bars really helping the handling of these big top heavy trucks. These bars really help plant the rear axle and go. They also reduced the squat while loaded with my travel trailer.


Here is a pic of mine....I love them.





Here is a pic of mine with about 4K lbs in the bed.



Old 11-01-2008, 04:58 AM
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Originally Posted by soulezoo
SSS--- You need to check out my bars, I have Lazars. Drags or Lazars are appropriate for you. They are beefy.give me a buzz and come over next week some evening.

Well I took a peak under your truck tonight and I didnt see any trac bars, just a bunch of IC and turbo parts....

Jason hooked it up on a 3250 DD and FASS HPFP. My truck is in serious need of trac bar's now.

TTYL

BTW: nice pistons
Old 11-01-2008, 05:09 AM
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Originally Posted by TexasCTD
Mike told me to just pick based on looks only because they will all do a great job. http://www.lazarsmith.com/tractionbars.html


Here is a pic of mine....I love them.





Which ones did you get? I think longer looks better, I think the slead bars would look killer on my short bed. I had my heart set on the nice looking GDP bars but found out that they punked out and are making a cheaper single bar version. So I think the slead bars would fit the bill based on looks and performance. How much is the shipping on these?

The shop I go to reccomed a local Silly Fabracator to build a set for me and I know he does sick work so I may pop in and ask for a quote. I do prefer name brand companies with R&D but I'm a sucker for a steal of a deal.

I'm a cheap bastard
Old 11-01-2008, 11:01 AM
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these should be standard equipment on anybodies 500 hp+ bomb.
Old 11-01-2008, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by SlowSixSpeed
Which ones did you get? I think longer looks better, I think the slead bars would look killer on my short bed. I had my heart set on the nice looking GDP bars but found out that they punked out and are making a cheaper single bar version. So I think the slead bars would fit the bill based on looks and performance. How much is the shipping on these?

The shop I go to reccomed a local Silly Fabracator to build a set for me and I know he does sick work so I may pop in and ask for a quote. I do prefer name brand companies with R&D but I'm a sucker for a steal of a deal.

I'm a cheap bastard


I think these are Lazar IIs. Here is a little different angle. On my long bed they almost line up perfect with the cab/long bed seam. Shipping is free!!

Old 11-01-2008, 12:23 PM
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Old 11-02-2008, 04:16 AM
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Originally Posted by jrussell
I am still having trouble understanding how the traction bar has anything to do with spring rates? The bar is not a spring or shock itself, so how is it varying the spring rate?

Like I said above, I've never seen a traction bar or link system on another vehicle change the spring rates at all...unless it was a poor design that was binding somewhere.



If the bar is not a spring how on earth could it increase the load capacity of the rear suspension? Stiffer leaf springs and/or air bags (both "springs") are the only way I know of to increase load carrying capacity. How does the traction bar help support the additional weight?

A "track bar" locates the axle laterally, but a "traction bar" does not. The leaf spring itself is what locates the axle in a leaf-sprung suspension. The traction bar is there simply to prevent axle wrap. A traction bar is not going to change the axle's location on the leaf spring center pin.



So how did the traction bar change the center pin location on the leaf springs? The only way the bar can move the axle/tire backward is by binding and letting the shackle absorb the movement to the rear. Nobody can tell by the pics that there isn't any binding going on. Things will still flex/bend after they bind, but eventually something will break if there's any binding.



There's just no magical way for these bars to do these things that all other traction bars don't do. Other traction bars don't move the axle back under compression...other bars don't increase the load carry capacity of the suspension...other bars don't increase the spring rates and give a stiffer ride (which somehow gives a smoother ride on rough surfaces ). It's not rocket science and it's not magic...it's a single traction bar that helps prevent wheel hop from axle wrap. Any other "benefits" must come from some binding somewhere.
Since others have tried these and it works for them something must be right. One guy stated that he had them on and took them off for a week while doing some work and he missed having them on!!!

Before you say there is binding somewhere you better look at the pics. more closely. At each end are heim joints which allow for pivoting, no way is there binding what so ever!!

Why don't you want to believe the majority of those who have them and it works for them, are you saying that the guys don't know what they're talking about??? Why don't you try them and if it doesn't work then you can make a case against them. Until then don't keep saying they don't work- there must be binding to make it stiffer.

You'd think if these didn't work and there was 'binding' happening, by this time there would be a real thread stating NOT to buy these 'cuz things are being damaged/broken. Face it, they must work.
Old 11-02-2008, 05:56 AM
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Originally Posted by mpracehemi
Since others have tried these and it works for them something must be right. One guy stated that he had them on and took them off for a week while doing some work and he missed having them on!!!

Before you say there is binding somewhere you better look at the pics. more closely. At each end are heim joints which allow for pivoting, no way is there binding what so ever!!

Why don't you want to believe the majority of those who have them and it works for them, are you saying that the guys don't know what they're talking about??? Why don't you try them and if it doesn't work then you can make a case against them. Until then don't keep saying they don't work- there must be binding to make it stiffer.

You'd think if these didn't work and there was 'binding' happening, by this time there would be a real thread stating NOT to buy these 'cuz things are being damaged/broken. Face it, they must work.
First of all, you can't necessarily tell if something is binding by looking at pics.

Second, heim joints CAN and DO bind. They have a limited travel range and once you exceed that range they start to bind. Proof of this is the very fact that they make "high misalignment" spacers for heim joints. The spacers allow you to get a few degrees more travel before they bind. You see the rig in my avatar? That rig needs high misalignment spacers on every heim joint because it has a ton of suspension travel and the heims would bind without them. Obviously a 1-ton truck is not going to have that much travel, so binding from articulation is probably not an issue (even without high misalignment spacers).

Either you didn't read everything I wrote, or you just didn't understand it. I never said these bars were binding at the heims from articulation. I said they must be binding in the forward and rear directions if they do in fact make the suspension stiffer and increase the spring rates. You can't make the suspension "stiffer" without some kind of binding...plain and simple.

The last thing I want to do is make my rough riding 1-ton truck any stiffer in the rear. If/when I decide I need traction bars they will be a triangulated design using a shackle or slip-joint at the frame end. That's the only way they won't bind and make the suspension stiffer.

I never said they don't work. I said they will definitely help with wheel hop caused by axle wrap...but that doesn't change the fact there is binding going on which makes the suspension stiffer.
Old 11-02-2008, 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by TexasCTD

How are they attached to the frame? They look welded on?
Old 11-02-2008, 08:28 AM
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If I remeber right you drill and tap the frame.
Old 11-02-2008, 08:57 AM
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^^^^^ You remember right.
Old 11-02-2008, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by jrussell
...but that doesn't change the fact there is binding going on which makes the suspension stiffer.
...And better for those of us that have them!

Originally Posted by Hintz
How are they attached to the frame? They look welded on?
Can be welded, bolted or tapped for screws!
Old 11-02-2008, 09:18 AM
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Bind can have a lot of meanings...
I run my bars preloaded, so yes they are in a 'bind'
Old 11-02-2008, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Hintz
How are they attached to the frame? They look welded on?


Mine are welded.

..
Old 11-02-2008, 04:38 PM
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Has anybody running these bars experienced a measured reduction in 60/330 foot times?

If not, did consistency improve?

Is there a lower height frame bracket (more distance between the frame) available for high Hp trucks or do you just select a longer bar if you have more power (I'm concerned about too much front end lift at the drag strip)?


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