I think he's talking about going to 4.10 gears to compensate for the larger tires. In my opinion and experience that is not needed if you have a little extra power - which you do. Unfortunately it's power you should not have been towing with and now you are paying the price. Get the tranny fixed and you will be very happy with your truck and its towing ability.

 

By the way. With stock power, it is strong and reliable. You added an additional 30% more power. You can't expect it to still be reliable at that point.

 

Dont shake your finger at me........... hahaha

Last year when I came out of DeadWood SD up that hill of 7% for a few miles and the truck overheated and I just kept pulling the shifter into a lower gear while just holding the go pedal down and not caring was bad you mean?????????

I think where my problem lies is in my head more than anywhere, my 02 ctd was about 500 at flywheel with a 6 speed and it would pull the same camper up the same hills in the fast lane,so I expect this new one to do the same I guess.

 

I'm saying trade both axles with the guy instead of just the gears. This would be a lot easier.

Also, maybe you want to do the tranny work first to see if you really need the gears.

 

The shaking at take off, is a different problem, I'd check your driveshafts and u-bolts.

Have you had you PCM flashed for the larger tires? That will alter the shift points for you.

 

I have not had the flash done yet, I need to get that done, but that wont effect the final gearing at 60mph. My understanding is that the dealer cant go that large with the reset.

 

They can't on the '06+ trucks because they are can-bus equipped if I remember correctly. On the '05 and older it wasn't a problem.

 

They Can, it was posted a while back how to fool into it the right tire size. You had to change the gear ratio (in the PCM) and the tire size.
Your right, it wont' effect final gearing, but it helps to keep the tranny from shifting in and out of gear when driving.

 

Well if you have 4.10s and 35's they can get it fixed right? Just drop the program down to say it has 3.73s.

But if you come with 3.73's I don't think there is a readily available option. I just add about 9% to my speed and let people know when they drive it its off... Close enough.


I've heard there is a way to do it from the dealer but I'd rather just get a programmer.

 

Now I have been told that I dont really need billet shafts if I get the right valve body, it all depends how hard the shifts are is what causes the input shaft to break???????????? So now I am told that a triple disk and correct valve body and it would be fine for me..........

Anyone out there running anything like that from NADP????
any comments on it????
Would like to hear from someone in this exact situation to be honest.

 

I pulled an 8k lbs camper around for 2 years with as much as 500hp with just a VB and TC and minor other stuff from Dave Goerend. Stock shafts and flexplate. As long as you don't plan on any boosted 4x4 launches or towing in excess of 12-15k lbs, that should take care of you.

 

get a single disk Pro Torque T.C. (mine held 625/1450 to the tire) Tow valve body no racing one, change the flex plate to sfi, input shaft change it when you go thru the trans but now you wont need it with a tow valve body, get the smarty with a tow tune and have fun