3rd Gen High Performance and Accessories (5.9L Only) Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for third generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories. THIS IS FOR THE 5.9L ONLY!

Today, I became INVINCIBLE!!

Old Apr 30, 2006 | 08:58 PM
  #1  
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From: DFW, TX
Today, I became INVINCIBLE!!

Okay, well maybe not Invincible, but I sure am feeling good. I've had my Quadzilla Commander Monitor for about a week now, and installed all of it except one thing. Today I finished up the last bit of install by installing the EGT probe. Yes, I tackled the beast that most mortal men tremble at.

To be honest, I had such a mental fear of doing it, but when its all said and done it was a piece of cake!! The key was going slow and easy. I gained all the information I needed to know from this board, so I want to thank everyone that has posted about installing an EGT probe.

Now, with the probe installed, it was time to get down to business and see some numbers. Did some running around and with my Xzillaraider Race box on the high setting (130hp), noticed that temps got to 1500 when I really got on it hard. Yowsa!! Despite having the race box, I ALWAYS run it on the lowest setting because that is where I get the best fuel mileage (and believe it or not, MPG increase was the #1 reason I bought the box. The extra HP/TQ were just nice to haves). Hoo boy am I glad I alway kept it on the first setting.


So, anyone out there running a chip without gauges, but scared to put it in because of drilling/tapping the manifold should just get off your high horse and go do it. Its not as bad as you think.

Pics of the install.



Picture of the oil temp probe to monitor oil temperatures
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Old Apr 30, 2006 | 09:02 PM
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That is what I have been trying to say, the pyro is probably the easiest thing to do. Not stress no mess just get -er done!

Rick
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Old Apr 30, 2006 | 09:43 PM
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Not to nit pick you or anything (ok maybe a little), it looks like you did not tap the manifold deep enough for the pyro fitting.
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Old Apr 30, 2006 | 09:48 PM
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I did tap the manifold about 3/4 of the way deep. I was told not to tap it all the way to the bottom. When I installed the bung for the pyro, I was scared of over torquing it, and stripping threads, so I screwed it in until it was pretty tight. I had an unfortunate incident where I over torqued the oil temp probe and broke it off in the oil filter cooling housing. Had to replace that part, which took my truck down for a week.

I can go deeper if need be, but I played it safe (due to the oil temp probe incident). The metal in the manifold seemed pretty soft, so if you guys have a recommended ft/lb torque rating, it would be much appreciated.. I would estimate that bung is screwed in approx 1/2 way the thickness of the manifold.

As stated, I'm a newby at this, so your suggestions are valued.
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Old May 1, 2006 | 12:27 AM
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hmmm maybe im confused but you mean you only tapped the manifold thickness 3/4 of the way or you only turned the tap 3/4" of its length in? The thickness of the manifold should be fully tapped THROUGH but the tap is only run down 3/4 of the way. The tap and fittings are tapered so if you were to fully run the tap it would cause the threads to be "big" for the fitting . your wording is what im questioning? hope you get what im asking.
BTW it is an easy job except i tapped mine further back and the handle kept hitting that ac line so i could only do a 1/4 turn at a time with a crappy small tap wrench and some vice grips.
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Old May 1, 2006 | 07:26 AM
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Go deeper with the tap, as long as the hole is the correct size for the tap you'll be fine. I thought it was suggested to put the probe on the back side of the manifold due to the #6 cylinder being the "hot" cylinder. Am i wrong on that?
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Old May 1, 2006 | 07:32 AM
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From: Tomball, Texas
That is correct. Should mount the probe on the rear exhaust manifold since #6 runs the hottest.
I mounted mine on the rear runner just above the turbo flange.

MikeyB
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Old May 1, 2006 | 01:35 PM
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Okay guys, let me clarify my install process. A hole was drilled into my manifold using a 21/64 bit. I used a 1/8 NPT Tap, and cut threads in the hole approximately 3/4 the thickness of the manifold. There was approximately 1/8-3/16 inch that I left alone. I did NOT cut threads all the way to the bottom of the hole. The reason why, is that I read that you shouldn't do it because it could cause leakage (need to get a link where I read that at). Again, I took it cautiously. If I need to go deeper I can. Once threads were cut, I screwed the bung in, until it was pretty tight. I didn't want to force it as I was scared of stripping the threads (as the manifold metal seems somewhat soft).

I chose to mount mine where I did because of convienence (ie that's where I could get the drill to fit). I know the best place is the area on the manifold, where all the tubing connects, just above the turbo. However, I did not have a right angle drill attachment, and couldn't fit my drill down there to get a proper angle. I would have like to have installed it further back, but again, I couldn't get my drill to fit by the last two cylinders.

Thanks for the comments. I'll look at screwing the bung in further to appease the dieseltruckresource gods (I'm still looking for a recommended ft/lb rating for that bung. I don't want to over torque and stip threads).

I'm hoping that people considering this will realize its not a difficult job. If I can do it, then anyone can. (and I'm just a computer nerd by day, to pour some light on it )
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Old May 1, 2006 | 01:47 PM
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From: Udaho
Originally Posted by runamuk
That is what I have been trying to say, the pyro is probably the easiest thing to do.

Huh? I just did my gauges. Used a "boost bolt" for the boost pressure, used my governor test port for my tranny temp sender. Only drilling and tapping was for the pyro, which made it the most difficult sensor to install (but not that difficult I guess).

Just my experience.
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Old May 1, 2006 | 03:17 PM
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Hey man I think im speaking for the other guys as well there are no God's here just offering suggestions to you. BTW your bushing for the egt probe is (should be) brass which is soft metal, your manifold is (i believe) cast steel which is harder metal, you'll snap the bushing first, and it does not need to be anywhere near that tight. I dont know if there is an actual tourqe spec but tap the hole all the way, put your bushing in go 3 finger tight w/a 3/8" ratchet insert the probe snug it up. Rest assured that nothing will leak shut the hood and enjoy the xtra 130 hp from your box.

What do you use the front hitch for? just wondering
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Old May 1, 2006 | 03:28 PM
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From: Southern, Indiana
http://www.tstproducts.com/pdffiles/instpy25b.pdf

BigBlueDodge,
Check out that link and look at the photo on the right. You'll find out how far the fitting should go in etc.
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Old May 1, 2006 | 05:32 PM
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Thanks for the link, PourinDiesel. I'll go screw it in some more.

Brad02ctd, the front hitch is for a winch mount for light duty winching during off road. As I don't have tow hooks, it also doubles as secure point to get winched out should I get stuck with an attachment I have. And obviously, it could be used to navigate trailers in tight spots should the need arise (although I haven't used it yet for that)
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Old May 3, 2006 | 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by BigBlueDodge
I had an unfortunate incident where I over torqued the oil temp probe and broke it off in the oil filter cooling housing. Had to replace that part, which took my truck down for a week.
If that part got back to Quad somewhere on the 21st of April I saw it. Impressive, that looked hard to break. Did you have to twist it sideways to do that?
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Old May 3, 2006 | 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by BigBlueDodge
I used a 1/8 NPT Tap, and cut threads in the hole approximately 3/4 the thickness of the manifold. There was approximately 1/8-3/16 inch that I left alone. I did NOT cut threads all the way to the bottom of the hole. The reason why, is that I read that you shouldn't do it because it could cause leakage (need to get a link where I read that at). Again, I took it cautiously.
yeah the manifold neads to be tapped through. just dont run the tap to its last cutting threads. otherwise i cant imagine that you would have more than two full threads. Remmeber that the tap and fitting are tapered. the furhter you tap the further the fitting will need to go in to seal tight.
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