OK, I have spent hours reading OLD posts about LOAD D vs. LOAD E. Here is what I concluded:

- I've read posts from people stating that LOAD E is the ONLY way to go with 2500 & 3500 trucks. Especially when towing or hauling. OK, point understood.

- Then I've read posts of "so-called" lawsuits stemming from people with "LOAD D" tires involved in accidents and they got sued because they did not have a LOAD E tire. That is BS

So you are going to tell me that someone with a properly inflated and well treaded tire will be at fault and get sued because it was a LOAD D tire? Look at the cars and trucks rolling down the road. Are you insane? You've got vehicles missing lug nuts, brakes that haven't been serviced in years, bald tires, worn-out steering & suspension parts, etc. and they do NOT get sued.

Ohh, but here comes they guy in his Ram Truck with his BFG LOAD D rated tire and wrecks out. They are to blame. I think that story is BS and it is nothing but SCARE TACTICS!

- The stock Michelin LTX tires are LOAD E. They are long lasting, rated LOAD E, great on dry pavement. But when it comes to snow, ice, and even rain, they are not the best.

- So, if I want a 285-70-17 tire?

I am stuck with LOAD D.

What is one to do?

A - Have a LOAD E tire that falls on its face in snow and rain but retains a high LOAD range?

How is that safer?

OR

B - Run a LOAD D tire that has a 3,195 MAX LOAD, with a better tread profile for snow & rain.

I take B.

 

You will be fine with the 8 ply or Load D, dont worry about it, if something is going to happen to an 8ply it will happen to a 10ply

 

Also, I wanted to add:

FACT:

Today's load range/ply ratings DO NOT count the actual number of body ply layers found inside the tire, but indicate an equivalent strength based on early bias ply tires. Most radial passenger tires have one or two body plies, and light truck tires, even those with heavy duty ratings (10-, 12- or 14-ply rated), ACTUALLY have only TWO or THREE fabric body plies, or one steel ply.

 

There are some E-rated large tires starting to hit the market for those paranoid people....

 

Ive seen lots of D tires that have a higher rating than E. I know there are other factors that play into a tires durability but its just somethin to think about.

 

I ran P265/70-17's on my 03 Cummins Diesel and hauled 2500 lbs. many times and an average weight of 800 to 1000 lbs. daily and never had a problem. They just needed rotated more often and wore very quick. I went through about four tire dealers before I got one that would put them on not being the "correct load range tires for that truck". What ever you put on just keep them properly inflated and you will be fine.

 

I have been looking at bigger a/t or m/t tires and the local dealers in Houston will replace with a larger tire with Load Range D as long as the weight capacity listed for the tires is the same or better as the originals. They claim that is the letter of the law.

You can be sued for anything.

 

Several friends had Discount Tire install BFG 285/70/17s on their Rams and the dealers said the same. Has to be equal or better in the weight and speed rating.

MikeyB

 

i just put on Toyo open country mud terrains 295/70/17 that are E rated. they go for $300/tire but are E range. check the gallery

 

Go with "B".

 

As long as the weight rating is the same or better than "an E range" tire, use it. All E ranges aren't made equal either!

Chris

 

The factory 235/85R16 load range E's for the tires that I run are rated for 3042 lbs each. The new 285/75R16 load range D than I run now are rated for 3305 lbs each. Like they said before, it is all relavant to a ply rating that is older than my underwear and it doesn't really matter when you hit a nail, screw, glass bottle, etc. Just because you have "E" tires, don't mean they are impervious to nails and junk. It all boils down to....in my opinion....how you load your truck and what size tire you are running as to what load range to get. If you run 285's, there is more air and surface area and they will hold up more wieght but ride smoother. If you run 235's, you better get a higher load range so when you dual them they don't rub under weight. There are too many factors to just say, buy "E"s and "E"s only. Thats bull corn. Running a dually, we don't have near as many options as the single wheel trucks, and I'm thankfull I don't have those 17 inch rim DC blessed the new trucks with. If you want a good tire that will handle weight, go with 19.5 rims if you can afford them. If not, you have to settle with these paper thin sidewalls.

 

The e-rated michelins on my '98 2500 only lasted a few thousand miles before they disintegrated on the highway under my 10K# gross weight - then I switched to d-rated BFGs rated at 3415# each

They work so well we use the takeoffs on the trailers until they die of old age.

 

Fact is I run an auto inspection station/tire shop in PA. I won't inspect a truck with lower than factory rated tires. The D rated tire may have a higher load rating than an E rated tire. But the load rating is not the same and only thing you have to go by, the E tire will have a stronger tread and sidewall than the D tire! Most E rated tires max psi is 80 and D tires are 60 psi. there is a very good reason for this, the E rated is a stronger tire.
If I was ever run over by a big truck with the wrong rated tires, believe me, if I was still alive, I would sue the a..hole.

With all that said, yes you will be fine, not legal, running a D rated tire as long as you don't tow or haul heavy.

 

Just read the load rating...

I have NEVER killed a pair of BFG MT's or AT's no matter how overloaded or over sped they have been.

Load rating...then manufacturer rep. D vs E is silly.