check this thead for the full story:
http://www.turbodieselregister.com/f...6&page=1&pp=15

Also here is my rough draft of the wiring:

rough draft

 

I have a push start... but it's not the SRT-10 one, it's the Ignited Performance one. Four wires to hook up... ground, 12V for light, 12V for power to switch and the starter.

I hooked it up as following: Obviously ground to ground, 12V for light tapped into dome lights so it's on initially and then fades off (otherwise it'd always be on and it'd just be too bright), 12V for power to a key hot... otherwise you'd be able to start it without the key in place and then for the starter, I tapped into the yellow wire just beneath the steering column.

The button replaces the lighter in the dash, so right there you have your ground and 12V key hot, just run the other two and you're good. Oh, and I tapped into the interior lights at the base of the driver door pillar... followed it down to there from the overhead console.

 

So you did not shut down the all the ACC circuits when the engine starts? -- Was there any side effects?

I heard that doing that will make an overload on the ACC's and possibly hurt them...

With my wiring, I am trying to do the exact thing that the key does, and when it moves to start it disconects some leads....

Anywho, thanks for the info

 

Haven't heard anything about disconnecting leads at startup... But no, my setup does not do that. At least, not my radar detector (hard wired into cig lighter wiring) and my radio when I use the button to start the truck because they stay on whereas they'll turn off if I use the key to start it.

So far, I have not had any problems with it and I use the button about half the time I start the truck.