smarty/tst stack
I am running TST, EZ and Smarty. With the right combo I do not have any hikkups or popping out of the stack. Get to high on TST and will experience the popping with mine. Currently I run daily driving TST R49 with 05tt 12* Auto Timing 3/1, EZ on 1 and Smarty SW #4, this seems to be very solid combo. I do occassionaly get a 0336 code with or without the Smarty. Usually only when I get into it before everything warmed up good. Colder the outside temps the more frequent it happens for me.
I'm running Smarty on 1 ,EZ 0n 2, TST on 5/3 no timing.
No codes yet, but the trans is confused.
With the cable adj. to 1/8 I get a 1/2 short shift. Not good!!
With the cable adj. to 3/8 ,I get a 1/2 shift hunt.
Anybody else experiencing this
No codes yet, but the trans is confused.
With the cable adj. to 1/8 I get a 1/2 short shift. Not good!!
With the cable adj. to 3/8 ,I get a 1/2 shift hunt.
Anybody else experiencing this
This is a scenario that only happens if I'm really hung over. Since I rarely drink, and more rarely get hung over, and I don't like lugging the truck it almost never happens. When it does happen, it doesn't always throw a code.
I run that stack
An important point was made above and that is for these units to perform like they should you need to be at full operating temp (180*). Having said that these are the settings I can run at wot:
Smarty on SW 9
TST (w/user adj timing) 9/5 @ 3* additional timing
EZ on lvl 3
Also EH 120hp inj. (they gave me LESS smoke)
I used to be the KING of the dreaded pop. The biggest contributor to getting rid of it on my truck was the user adj timing on the TST.
Although I can run the above settings I can't say they will give me the best times in the 1/4 as I haven't run it except on the street but it was a real a.. kicker. I also run the Fluiddamper and F1's cam and springs,... both of which smoooooooothed out my truck at all rpm levels so they probably contributed to getting rid of the popping to some degree.
So the answer to your question is,,........ that stack works NICELY!!
Smarty on SW 9
TST (w/user adj timing) 9/5 @ 3* additional timing
EZ on lvl 3
Also EH 120hp inj. (they gave me LESS smoke)
I used to be the KING of the dreaded pop. The biggest contributor to getting rid of it on my truck was the user adj timing on the TST.
Although I can run the above settings I can't say they will give me the best times in the 1/4 as I haven't run it except on the street but it was a real a.. kicker. I also run the Fluiddamper and F1's cam and springs,... both of which smoooooooothed out my truck at all rpm levels so they probably contributed to getting rid of the popping to some degree.
So the answer to your question is,,........ that stack works NICELY!!
Last edited by OT-OF-Here; Oct 23, 2006 at 06:26 PM. Reason: Sp!
I think some of you are talking about a different "pop"
some are refferring to the popping when you run the rail dry
Im talking about if you hold your truck at 1100 rpm with a tst box installed, you will eventually cause a hikkup and eventually throw the 0336 code.
Ive learned to drive around it but still happens on occasion
and yes it is worse at lower temps, mostly when heater grids cycle
was hoping the smarty would get rid of the problem
some are refferring to the popping when you run the rail dry
Im talking about if you hold your truck at 1100 rpm with a tst box installed, you will eventually cause a hikkup and eventually throw the 0336 code.
Ive learned to drive around it but still happens on occasion
and yes it is worse at lower temps, mostly when heater grids cycle
was hoping the smarty would get rid of the problem
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I think some of you are talking about a different "pop"
some are refferring to the popping when you run the rail dry
Im talking about if you hold your truck at 1100 rpm with a tst box installed, you will eventually cause a hikkup and eventually throw the 0336 code.
Ive learned to drive around it but still happens on occasion
and yes it is worse at lower temps, mostly when heater grids cycle
was hoping the smarty would get rid of the problem
some are refferring to the popping when you run the rail dry
Im talking about if you hold your truck at 1100 rpm with a tst box installed, you will eventually cause a hikkup and eventually throw the 0336 code.
Ive learned to drive around it but still happens on occasion
and yes it is worse at lower temps, mostly when heater grids cycle
was hoping the smarty would get rid of the problem
Well it seems to me that every truck is different and definitely a big difference between the 555 and 600 trucks. And just when I was bragging about not setting the code(s) normally, set 0336 and 0602 this morning when pulling in the parking lot. No heavy pedal this morning it is raining. I do seem to remember most of my codes set when it is raining. I need to check my connections.
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