Cajone Special:

 

Many people forget that the Auto manufacturers have many regulations they need to meet. Not all of their designs are for performance. They have to take into consideration noise, emissions, cost, & many other factors. For a stock truck the airbox is acceptable. I, like may others, have modified the stock airbox. I put a 4" hole in the bottom and attached a PVC elbow. I also added an Amsoil Nano-fiber drop in, and I have noticed a slight improvement in EGTs, and a little better mileage.

 

One thing I want to bring up is that the Cummins engineers and the Dodge engineers are 2 diff groups. I am pretty sure the stock air box is developed by dodge not cummins. I might be wrong but I believe the engine ships with nothing in front of the turbo. If this is true then the intake is being developed like posted above for noise suppression, just like your exhaust system. We all know that a simple muffler swap will help increase flow and drop egts. Another factor is the rated power on a engine is at the crank on a dyno without intake and exhaust.

The intake, exhaust and drive train are reasons we see such a massive power drop at the rear wheels. 15% is usually what a trans and rear end eat up, I am sure the transfer care takes some as well. 305 at the crank should be 260 hp at the rear wheels, if I remember right its usually closer to 245, I can assume some of that is from exhaust and intake. 260 is closer to what these company's show after a intake and exhaust mod.

As for the holes I am not sure, I would need to do some math to see if the opening in the side of the box has the area for the correct cfm without pulling to much pressure.

 

I don't see more than 1250* pulling 11k though all kinds of terrain with the mods in my sig (including my air box mod with a link) and my stock exhaust. My exhaust includes a catalytic converter.

Bonus for those who live in snow country - the stock intake opening allows the air box to fill with snow as the intake path comes up through the wheel well.

 

There was a very good article in the TDR magazine about some tests that were done regarding the Air filters and systems. I think it is very similar to the PSM write up. They made some good sense regarding the temp of the air being just as important as the amount of air. I have had very good luck with the AFE Stage-1 but am going to try what they recomended in the TDR article. They claim that using the Stock airbox with a AFE-PG7 media, Silicone downtube(already have) and the PSM cool air kit is the best that can be done to provide clean cool air to the engine.

 

jp-4.5 is correct, i should have reread issue 56 & 59 before i started modifications on the intake, the afe stage two is in the scrap box, and the psm, cool tube and afe filter is on , the gain is so slight that it will never pay for the mod, you will gain more by changing the intake to cfm+ and windspeed grid heater delete

 

I wonder what would happen if you block the fender access to the stock box and only use the PSM duct? Would the air from the PSM duct be considerably colder then the air coming from the fender? Would there be enough air from the one PSM duct to feed the turbo?

Maybe I will need to try this when all the parts come in?

 

I have the PSM Cold Air Intake, and I like it and would do it again...that being said, a slight caution.....you can get water into the filter with it.....not by standing water, not by rain...but by driving thru large puddles at high speed...as in flooded streets in arizona....i hit several at 50mph...nice large 10' splashes over the hood / roof....and when i got home, checked the filter and definately got it wet....nothing got thru the filter, but wasnt to excited about the potential....

So for those of you with it...stay away from large splashes as it apparently can shoot water straight up the psm intake tube.....

Dont think it's a big deal if you are aware....

 

I agree,

Permanently locked up a motor going thru a creek to fast. Expensive!

Damon