Pics of Opie's bypass and Mitusa Gusher(mac daddy pump)
Yeah that wasnt what I really wanted to ask
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From: McConnellsburg, PA
Not 100% certain but here is alittle bit of what Opie has to say.......
I have seen all generations of 5.9's blow freeze plugs. Others have tried their attempts to bypass all water pressure on some trucks. What most people don't realize is for each pound of pressure exerted on the cooling system it raises the boiling point of the coolant by 3 degrees at sea level. This allows the cooling system to operate at a higher temperature before boiling over, increasing the system’s efficiency and reducing emissions. IE also feels the ISB in the Dodge trucks are making more coolant pressure than what is really required. (I seriously doubt the manufacturer designed for 500+hp trucks some of which are turning over 4000 rpm.)
So what is to be gained by running a coolant regulated bypass? On IE's bypass cylinders 5 & 6 run cooler as does the engine at all rpms.
There is the benefit about not blowing freeze plugs do to lowering/regulating coolant pressure. There is the benefit about the freeing up hp not required to make higher pressure. How much hp depends on rpm but unlike claims like that of hp/milage from things like after market airhorns this one is tangible.
Some will push for running an electric water pump, pretty but this bypass reg honestly beats it hands down. Longevity and reliability for all trucks both competitive and daily drivers will be better off.
Ill dig up some more!!
I have seen all generations of 5.9's blow freeze plugs. Others have tried their attempts to bypass all water pressure on some trucks. What most people don't realize is for each pound of pressure exerted on the cooling system it raises the boiling point of the coolant by 3 degrees at sea level. This allows the cooling system to operate at a higher temperature before boiling over, increasing the system’s efficiency and reducing emissions. IE also feels the ISB in the Dodge trucks are making more coolant pressure than what is really required. (I seriously doubt the manufacturer designed for 500+hp trucks some of which are turning over 4000 rpm.)
So what is to be gained by running a coolant regulated bypass? On IE's bypass cylinders 5 & 6 run cooler as does the engine at all rpms.
There is the benefit about not blowing freeze plugs do to lowering/regulating coolant pressure. There is the benefit about the freeing up hp not required to make higher pressure. How much hp depends on rpm but unlike claims like that of hp/milage from things like after market airhorns this one is tangible.
Some will push for running an electric water pump, pretty but this bypass reg honestly beats it hands down. Longevity and reliability for all trucks both competitive and daily drivers will be better off.
Ill dig up some more!!
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From: McConnellsburg, PA
Here is a link to check out and read up on the bypass....
http://www.competitiondiesel.com/for...play.php?f=151
http://www.competitiondiesel.com/for...play.php?f=151
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From: Colorado
I saw that before. That's where I got the idea, about three months ago. I'd be interested to know at what pressure the regulator opens, or why it even uses a regulator in the first place. The tap right in front of it runs through the heater core and is open all the time as far as I can tell. It seems to me, until the water jacket reaches a certain pressure, it's doing nothing to increase flow to the back of the block.
Have you noticed when and if that hose running across the top of the radiator gets hot?
Here's what Opie has to say about the regulator - seems to be tied more to engine rpm than anything else, but I don't see how:
It's a closed system, so the pressure is what it is. It changes with rpm and temperature. You are trying to decrease localized pressure in that area by opening another tap in the head, increasing flow in back of the water jacket, with the side benefit of better cooling to #5&6 cylinders.
The truck warms up and behaves exactly the same as it did after intalling my poor man's coolant bypass. It's flowing all the time through that port, at least until the filter clogs up. It almost sounds like the "weep hole" he mentions does the same thing as the restrictor in my filter head. I still don't know what the regulator's for. Finer flow control maybe?
Have you noticed when and if that hose running across the top of the radiator gets hot?
Here's what Opie has to say about the regulator - seems to be tied more to engine rpm than anything else, but I don't see how:
Originally Posted by opie@dieselpower
Yes it is a regulator thats flow characteristic is altered by both pressure and temp. And that in itself is why it can do things that other systems don't. It only ties into the head at one point.
I have taken several phone calls asking what I feel the correct coolant pressure should be set at idle. Lets just lay it out here, my system does not alter coolant pressure until after 2000 rpm. There is a weep hole that keeps that basically enhances regulator flow but that really does not alter below 2000 rpm any different than stock.
It seems wrong to lower coolant pressure at rpms lower than 2000rpm range. At idle there is only 8 –10 psi and while it does increase with rpms most trucks are not over 20 psi until 1800 rpm. After 2000 rpm is when the pump pressure starts increasing rapidly. All of the other systems out right now do alter the lower rpm coolant pressures.
If one wanted to lower lower rpm pressure why not just alter the water pump fins with a couple holes of grind/blend them down or easier yet under drive the pulley? I am totally against all them ideas myself, lowering the lower rpm coolant pressure is the wrong logic IMHO. Everyone has their beliefs and people will sell you about anything these days. Again, I feel the only true way to find out what system is best is to monitor temps and a pressure gauge in the cab while testing in various load/rpm scenarios
I have taken several phone calls asking what I feel the correct coolant pressure should be set at idle. Lets just lay it out here, my system does not alter coolant pressure until after 2000 rpm. There is a weep hole that keeps that basically enhances regulator flow but that really does not alter below 2000 rpm any different than stock.
It seems wrong to lower coolant pressure at rpms lower than 2000rpm range. At idle there is only 8 –10 psi and while it does increase with rpms most trucks are not over 20 psi until 1800 rpm. After 2000 rpm is when the pump pressure starts increasing rapidly. All of the other systems out right now do alter the lower rpm coolant pressures.
If one wanted to lower lower rpm pressure why not just alter the water pump fins with a couple holes of grind/blend them down or easier yet under drive the pulley? I am totally against all them ideas myself, lowering the lower rpm coolant pressure is the wrong logic IMHO. Everyone has their beliefs and people will sell you about anything these days. Again, I feel the only true way to find out what system is best is to monitor temps and a pressure gauge in the cab while testing in various load/rpm scenarios
The truck warms up and behaves exactly the same as it did after intalling my poor man's coolant bypass. It's flowing all the time through that port, at least until the filter clogs up. It almost sounds like the "weep hole" he mentions does the same thing as the restrictor in my filter head. I still don't know what the regulator's for. Finer flow control maybe?
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From: McConnellsburg, PA
I saw that before. That's where I got the idea, about three months ago. I'd be interested to know at what pressure the regulator opens, or why it even uses a regulator in the first place. The tap right in front of it runs through the heater core and is open all the time as far as I can tell. It seems to me, until the water jacket reaches a certain pressure, it's doing nothing to increase flow to the back of the block.
Have you noticed when and if that hose running across the top of the radiator gets hot?
Have you noticed when and if that hose running across the top of the radiator gets hot?
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From: Coeur d'Alene ID
The OPIE is a coolant bypass system to minimize the chance of blowing the rear freeze plugs.
The Mitusa is a mechanical fuel pump that is is speed reactive. More RPM means you need more fuel and this pump moves more fuel as you accelerate. The regulator maintains the pressure at 16 psi.
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From: McConnellsburg, PA
That depends on which of the two system in this thread you are asking about.
The OPIE is a coolant bypass system to minimize the chance of blowing the rear freeze plugs.
The Mitusa is a mechanical fuel pump that is is speed reactive. More RPM means you need more fuel and this pump moves more fuel as you accelerate. The regulator maintains the pressure at 16 psi.
The OPIE is a coolant bypass system to minimize the chance of blowing the rear freeze plugs.
The Mitusa is a mechanical fuel pump that is is speed reactive. More RPM means you need more fuel and this pump moves more fuel as you accelerate. The regulator maintains the pressure at 16 psi.
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From: Tomball, texas
I was wondering about splicing in the NAPA filter head and CAT filter into the stock fuel line, is this not feasible? I don't need mad flow i just want clean fuel.
also is there another water sep you could run inline like that as well?
also is there another water sep you could run inline like that as well?
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From: Weymouth, MA
It is a beast of a pump from what I hear...comes in two flavors 135 and 275 gph IRRC. Man I really wish I got this pump, they seem to be priced around the cost of a FASS HPFP...
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From: Weymouth, MA
http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/pr...id=MK20306-BLK
The Cat filter will work on that head. The fleetguard filter they have in the kit is NOT really a 2 micron, it is really 5 microns.