Ive got a 2007 5.9 six speed truck 3.73 rear gears and i am looking for some more take off power I do some mild towing and some highway driving .

I am planning on replacing the exhust system . What type dont want anything to loud inside the cab .

I would like some gagues to montior the exhust temp. and boost . Who makes the best kit

and would like to gain some mpg s running empty.

Is a smarty worth the money.

Thanks

 

Just replace the muffler (<$100)...you already have a 4" exhaust...others can offer what brand...i did a cat back, but only becasue i got it for about 1/3 normal price....

Guages DiProcol, ISSPRO or other....look at dieselmanor.com for package deals....or here on dtr

need to do something with intake...either drop in replacement or full intake system....i have the drop in replacement with an aftermarket turbo...no worries...but up to you...

smarty is worth the money, any programmer > 90hp and you will need to spend $'s on supporting mods like a clutch, fuel pump,...

 

i will agree with just replacing the muffler, but i would consider an edge juice with attitude you will get a little more power, better mpg's, and a nice digital gague pod all in one. and you will need to do something about the filter i would change the whole thing out. I really like my S&B very nice for the money

 

I would recommend smarty, gauges (diprical etc.) bypass cat, muffler, good lift pump (air dog, rapter for best $) clutch, intake (afe etc.)

 

If you do some heavy towing and add power the stock clutch isn't going to like it.

I would get yourself a South Bend clutch and get it over with.

Been happy with my Smarty. I would go that route again.

My AFE exhaust is very quiet. Check out my thread for sound clips.

The AFE or AEM air intakes work well.

I like my ISSPRO gauges but the Dipricols are also nice.

 

If you're looking for more power at take off, you'll be looking to increase low end torque, not "high" rpm power. Big differance on how to get there. Swapping mufflers and air cleaner boxes won't change low end torque any appreciable amount. Especially for the money you'll spend.

The cheapest and easiest is with a tuner box. There's a bunch of them available. Again, be carefull about your goals. Some of those boxes only increase upper rpm power, not off the line grunt. The Smarty seems to be the most popular; especially if you have a warrenty to protect.

Another simple method is to change the rear end gear ratio. 1st gear in your trans is pretty low already, either 6.29 or 5.94, depending on which trans you have. And you only have a single OD gear. Be carefull about changing too much. If you go too low, you'll lose your crusing economy. I believe most trucks have a 3.73 rear ratio, with a 4.10 an available option. Take a look when you're cruising where you normally would. If you're in 6th and the rpm's are >2,000, a lower gear may not be a good idea.

You can't really have power and economy both. To make power, you have to burn fuel. The more fuel you burn, the more power you make. So you have to find the happy medium.

With higher power levels, you have to worry about breaking stuff - most common seems to be the clutch and trans. Conversly, if you turn the power levels down, those things should last longer.

I drive mine around empty with the Smarty Jr set at SW1, and the PoD at 60. That should be quite a bit less power than stock. I get about 18-19mpg crusing the highway. Not sure about around town, since I don't do much of that. But it cruises just fine, easily managing steep hills at 80mph without down shifting. I do notice a little less throttle response from a standing start. But it's easily overcome with a little pressure from the right foot. Since I don't drive it around town much, it's a good trade off for me.

When I hook up the trailer, I turn the power levels up.

As for gauges, that depends on a lot of things. I'v been using Autometer on a lot of vehicles for a lot of years. Reasonably priced, durable, and accurate. They are the racing standard for a reason. But, they can be a pain to install. Placing sensors, running wires, installing the gauge itself. It's an all day project for most people, and it's not cheap.

I installed a Bully Dog Outlook Monitor. Glued it to the dash, and plugged it into the OBD port. Drill and tap one hole for the pyrometer. Ran one wire for power. The entire install took about an hour or so. I bought it used for $200; about the same as two AM gauges. I can also check a few other things, too, like trans temp (auto), fuel rail pressure, etc. Better than AM? No, just differant options.

 

Just change the muffler, no need to do the whole system, my 40" Nelson was $67 from the local Cummins store.
You should change the intake to something more free flowing, the S&B is your best bang for the buck.

I like my Dipricol gauges, I think they're a good match to the factory gauges, but there's a new line of Isspros that look just as good where the pointer extends into the center button like our factory gauges. You can get 3 in the pillar which I think is the best spot, if you have an auto you should have 4 gauges minimum, boost, pyro, fuel pressure, tranny temp.

No, I don't thing the Smarty is worth it unless you get a deal on a used one, keep an eye on the classifieds for some good deals. You can get a BDTD cheap, it got me 443 HP to the wheels, of course that means a new clutch and a new fuel system. I've got some real good deals in the classifieds...

It's a slippery slope, once you start with the mods you'll find you get hooked and it's gonna keep costing you, it sure is fun though!


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