http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html

I know you "think" you got it at the church parking lot . . . .

This seems like a PITA. But I've done it with four or more vehicles the past ten years using Daniels instructions.

Once it's perfect you'll notice the difference. (Top end lamps have really great definition . . it's noticeable that the vehicle is not tracking straight just by the headlamp "cutoff").

Also, he's the best aftermarket supplier for anything he carries. Every time I build a lamp harness I go to him for all the relays, etc.

Can't recommend him highly enough.

Anything more you can say about the headlights, I'm all ears. I need to do something with mine, but too much of this stuff looks cheesy.

 

Redax...not YOU again!!! You're such a perfectionist! And I thought I was one!!!

Yeah, I just followed the Dodge dealership manual and used measurements that they outlined. I'll try your link sometime...WHEN I HAVE A WHOLE WEEK TO SPARE . Maybe I should just drive it to you and you do it for me? How is that for lazy???

As for the previous post about "parts" to make this all work...FX Audio seemed a little "private" with how they got my DRL to just be the headlights on low beam - no lower-voltage power.

 

So basically the drl's are now the low beam HID?

 

Yes...instead of a low voltage being sent to the headlights for DRL - which is the cause of HID flicker, whatever they did sends the low-beam voltage instead with no computer codes thrown.

 

Thanks. I ordered a 35w 5000k kit from Retro Solutions. The kit is supposed to come with everything I need to work with DRL and not have issues, I hope !!
Todd is great to deal with and he answered all of my many questions and even gave a great discount for Dodge members !!

After much research on projector lens's for our trucks I have come to stick with the stock housing. As from what I have heard our stock housings will produce better light for the HID's than those aftermarket projectors out there unless you are doing a complete retro-fit. Sure they look great but I do not want to sacrifice anything.

 

I'll grant it, willingly. As a truck driver (past, and maybe again) concerns about visibility take on urgency when you know you can neither stop, nor completely control an unwieldy top-heavy load. I used to have my own set of headlights and windshield wipers I'd take from one assigned tractor to another . . think I'm bad about aiming, you should see what I do with windshields . . 700,000-miles of gunk don't just come off with Windex.

Here's another thought about about getting the lights dialed in: With a load variance from standard/solo to loaded/towing it's pretty easy to count the number of adjusting screw turns checked against a blank wall and a tape-line once I have re-measured. (I can usually find a Wal-Mart or other to spend, what, five minutes, 25' feet from wall to re-set for the heavier condition to find the point for heaviest condition when the truck is loaded and the trailer hitched). This is re-assuring when setting out against bad weather, etc. I've not ever had a vehicle where it was more than four or less than two turns. It's no different than re-setting tires according to the Load & Pressure Table of your tire manufacturer for different loads.

The hardest part is not up/down, but left/right. Daniel's format provides me a way to calculate any minor, tiny changes from that (I tend to like a touch more light onto the shoulder as big trucks and trailer towing are definitely threatened by getting wheels off into the gravel/dirt). E-codes have a VERY sharp top-line cutoff which make it easy to see. I don't ever have problems when out on the big road and am changing from low to high. That spoils a man for anything else.

Same for driving/fog lights. It's very nice to see how they work with and against one another with that tape line. I want them centered, but not too low or high.

Yes, if you were down here to South Texas we could have a lot of fun setting my stock headlamps and your aftermarket ones per these directions in the form of a Tech Article/sticky. (It's 4,000 km each way . . come on!)

Just print out Daniel's PDF instructions and get a buddy to help when you feel like getting around to it. It "seems" like a lot of trouble, but all you need is a roll of blue painters tape, a sharpie, and a measuring tape.

Take care.

.