my Fuel Pressure Gauge question list...
#1
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my Fuel Pressure Gauge question list...
Some FP gauge questions...
I did some quick search/read and now I'm wondering if I've found everything I need to know.
It looks like a 0-30 psi gauge is common enough and should do the trick. It looks like I should install a needle valve to act as a snubber and an isolater since I'm not keen on the idea of a fuel line in the cab...
I can T off the fuel line between the LP and CP3... where is a good place to do that and what parts are easy/best/cheapest to use?
Where is a good place to grab a switched/dimmed source for the backlight?
I think I'll stash this gauge on my dash under the stock fuel level gauge. (since I've got an X-monitor). Does anyone have pics of a mount fashioned for that location and/or pics of something like an Autometer 15013 mount installed? An alternate spot would be just left/below the X-monitor but there's an air vent there and it looks like the line in would be more vulnerable?
I did some quick search/read and now I'm wondering if I've found everything I need to know.
It looks like a 0-30 psi gauge is common enough and should do the trick. It looks like I should install a needle valve to act as a snubber and an isolater since I'm not keen on the idea of a fuel line in the cab...
I can T off the fuel line between the LP and CP3... where is a good place to do that and what parts are easy/best/cheapest to use?
Where is a good place to grab a switched/dimmed source for the backlight?
I think I'll stash this gauge on my dash under the stock fuel level gauge. (since I've got an X-monitor). Does anyone have pics of a mount fashioned for that location and/or pics of something like an Autometer 15013 mount installed? An alternate spot would be just left/below the X-monitor but there's an air vent there and it looks like the line in would be more vulnerable?
#2
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You can get a tapped cp3 bolt to replace the current one to get your fuel feed...most of us have done that. Do a search for the dimmable light source, I forget which wire I used..it's a different color for each year...mine was brown/orange I believe.
I did install the needle valve as well as the isolator although I know a guy that runs diesel straight to the gauge in the cab and always has, with no probs either.
Mine is mounted in a steering column pod..
I did install the needle valve as well as the isolator although I know a guy that runs diesel straight to the gauge in the cab and always has, with no probs either.
Mine is mounted in a steering column pod..
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[/IMG]
Banjo bolt from the cp3 to isolator mounted on the battery tray lip. Fass 95gph run to the stock filter housing. Seeing 15 psi idle/cruise and 13.5 foot touching the rad
Banjo bolt from the cp3 to isolator mounted on the battery tray lip. Fass 95gph run to the stock filter housing. Seeing 15 psi idle/cruise and 13.5 foot touching the rad
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genos garage has the banjo bolt
http://www.genosgarage.com/CoastalDa...ID=593&CATID=1
http://www.genosgarage.com/CoastalDa...ID=593&CATID=1
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well... now that I got in my truck to look - I can't see that location under the vent with my shift lever in D... and I'd need to relocate the switched 12V outlet (aka cigarette lighter) I use that for stuff.
How does that banjo bolt install? Just back out the stock bolt and replace? Torque it to some setting? I'm terrible with plumbing connections of all types for some reason...
How does that banjo bolt install? Just back out the stock bolt and replace? Torque it to some setting? I'm terrible with plumbing connections of all types for some reason...
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...almost done collecting info now.
Thanks for the patience as I ask questions I know have been asked before (yes I've done some searching).
Here's the parts, pricing, sources I've found so far...
Dipricol makes an FPG that looks like a reasonable match to the stock gauges. Several on-line sources have mechnanical gauges for about $42+shipping.
Ginos has a tapped banjo bolt for $7+$2for washer +shipping
I need to find a needle valve for a snubber should be a couple bucks locally... not sure how to figure out if it's OK'd for use with diesel fuel.
I need to find some hoses and a way to clamp the hose to the needle valve... $10 or so.
And here's where I'm stuck. What's a good price for an isolator? I found one for $70+ shipping -seems like a lot. Are there any brands/sources you all can suggest?
Is this gauge going to run me about $150 all together? (plus possibly another $50 for a mounting and paint if I go that route)
Thanks for the patience as I ask questions I know have been asked before (yes I've done some searching).
Here's the parts, pricing, sources I've found so far...
Dipricol makes an FPG that looks like a reasonable match to the stock gauges. Several on-line sources have mechnanical gauges for about $42+shipping.
Ginos has a tapped banjo bolt for $7+$2for washer +shipping
I need to find a needle valve for a snubber should be a couple bucks locally... not sure how to figure out if it's OK'd for use with diesel fuel.
I need to find some hoses and a way to clamp the hose to the needle valve... $10 or so.
And here's where I'm stuck. What's a good price for an isolator? I found one for $70+ shipping -seems like a lot. Are there any brands/sources you all can suggest?
Is this gauge going to run me about $150 all together? (plus possibly another $50 for a mounting and paint if I go that route)
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#8
Just an FYI for you guys needing fuel pressure parts.....
When building our gauge we had a bunch of Stainless Banjo Fittings made that are tapped in the top for an 1/8" sender.
This is essentially the same fitting as genos has, but it is stainless and not a plated steel part. The plated steel parts work fine, but there has been some issues with the plating being un even and may require you to run a tap through them to even it out so the senders will fit.
The DTR store and our other vendors should have them available pretty quick.
When building our gauge we had a bunch of Stainless Banjo Fittings made that are tapped in the top for an 1/8" sender.
This is essentially the same fitting as genos has, but it is stainless and not a plated steel part. The plated steel parts work fine, but there has been some issues with the plating being un even and may require you to run a tap through them to even it out so the senders will fit.
The DTR store and our other vendors should have them available pretty quick.
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ok... I've been googling a bit and the best I could do was find another source for the same $70 isolator. This one wanted $95. Is that the going price? This starts to make the electrical gauge solution look more cost effective.
Any advice, sources? What did you all pay and where did you all get these?
Or is everyone running a fuel line into the cab? I know diesel doesn't burn/explode like gas, I just don't like the idea.
Any advice, sources? What did you all pay and where did you all get these?
Or is everyone running a fuel line into the cab? I know diesel doesn't burn/explode like gas, I just don't like the idea.
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Image viewable after approval...
I got the DiPricol gauges, isolator, banjo bolt, wiring kit, mount, and a MH pan from Dieselmanor. Good prices and easy to order.
The middle is going to be a diff temp gauge if they make one when I'm ready to install a cover. If not, it'll have to be another "trans" labeled gauge. Everything else I need is on the Attitude monitor.
Sorry for the glare, I ran out and took the pic just now and the late day sun is brutal today and didn't have the polarizing filter handy.
I got the DiPricol gauges, isolator, banjo bolt, wiring kit, mount, and a MH pan from Dieselmanor. Good prices and easy to order.
The middle is going to be a diff temp gauge if they make one when I'm ready to install a cover. If not, it'll have to be another "trans" labeled gauge. Everything else I need is on the Attitude monitor.
Sorry for the glare, I ran out and took the pic just now and the late day sun is brutal today and didn't have the polarizing filter handy.
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