Let's just say that I wanted to do a rebuild with some mild parts... nothing crazy, just a solid 700-ish HP DD, but with strong parts I won't have to worry about.

Just talking engine work for now... say I pulled my engine and shipped/took it the Scheid... balance, head work, porting, cam, probably better pushrods, maybe better/treated connecting rods, intake work, springs... ?? what else am I missing?

Just thinking out loud

 

Mark, you are looking at a minimum of $10,000-$15,000.00 for what you mentioned in your post. Something that will raise prices is if your existing parts are not in good shape, like the cylinder head. You know I went through all of this on my 1996 but prices have gone up since I had all of that work done.

If you are looking at having Scheid Diesel do the work, give Brad Ingram a call at the Effingham, Illinois shop. He is the Shop Foreman there and would be glad to give you "ballpark" prices on what you are looking for. His number is:
1-800-669-1934.

---------
John_P

 

(clutches chest)

Thanks for the info, John! I guess I'll just have to wait a few more years!

I do want them to do the work. Do it right the first time, you won't have to do it again. From what I know, they're the best.

 

Mark...I will see if I can get your DTR Admin pay doubled for you so you can get it done sooner

 

That sure is swell of you, Lary... Real swell!

 

Mark, just so you know, all of the lower end stock parts (crank, rods, pistons) do well at 700hp and that saves you money. Opinions vary and go with a professional one of course. I used stock parts that saw no harm at the 900 level... when I went over that I used 12v rods and crank.

$10k is a good baseline to go with though for a mild performance build.

You'll want to do head work and that starts to get pricey. Explore different options like Extrude hone as opposed to traditional methods. It is not as effective, but a lot cheaper. Things like a nice exhaust manifold for instance have limited benefit unless the head is worked... think of your greatest restrictions in the process. (lowest common demoniator)

Also with the head, while you are doing the push rods (good idea) consider roller rockers. Rockers galling on the pivot shaft is an ongoing issue... rollers eliminate that. "roller rockers" might be the wrong terminolgy though. It isn't the rocker tip with the roller, but rather a bearing design on the rocker itself instead of bushings.

I'm just throwing stuff out there.

Balancing is relatively cheap for the benefit. That is always a "must do".

I strongly recommend coated pistons and bearings. I have seen the benefit first hand.

Stuff sure adds up though.

 

Thanks for the comments, buddy. I'm close to that line of thinking... I just want something that is solid and not at the edge of its limits when I get on it.

I'm trying to compensate for something... that's the truth...

 

I hope that I can get the motor built and use the same fuel/air I have now while I recover from the motor, then upgrade fuel and air in a couple of years. If I have to do it all at once, I'm going to have to get another job... like selling drugs.

 

No kidding.

At least you're asking questions and planning.

In my opinion, my truck ran the best and felt the best at 710hp. Sure over 1k is a lot of fun, but always scared of breaking stuff, and I have. That 710 got me to 12 sec flat in the 1/4. Another 450hp and a lot of $$$ to get to a low 11... wasn't really worth it in the end.

A good for instance is cp3. A good modded single cp3 will handle 700+ no problem... 900+ and you are looking at duals and all that entails.

 

My CP3 handled 868 on spray. I have the Arson 3 on it... I think it had more, but the head lifted and I got out of it.

If I want a drag truck, I'll build one. I just want something mean and reliable on the street.

 

Stay at around 650hp and you don't have to worry about all that. Mucho cheaper. A CP3 upgrade will be needed if you go the route you want to go.