Not sure if this will help or not but, here it goes.

The Rail pressure gauge is ready to go but, I am waiting on the production orders to get here so we can actually ship them out. The Rail portion is perfect but, we never had an issue with that side anyhow.

The new Transducer is perfecto, never had an issue with it since we started using it. Zero have failed.

The Scouts will be great too. We are using the same technology we use in all the Adrenaline/Pulses and they work really, really well and are a huge bang for the buck.

On the 06-07 trucks not only will you get the readings you want it also has some "cool" features such as the 0-60 performance tests, 1/4 mile performance tests. It has really good features that you cannot get anywhere else such as transmission slip %, the use of the fuel pressure transducer I mentioned above.

There is also the option for a Turbo Timer later if you decide you need it.

The fact that you can get all your data in 1 package makes it so much more cost effective it is crazy.

I like analog gauges too but, there is just a limit on how many you can install in the cab of a truck not to mention you start adding up an EGT, Boost, Trans Temp, Rail Pressure and Fuel Pressure gauge and it is WAY more expensive.

The other thing you need to consider is what you will be doing with your truck. If you plan on using pretty much ANY plug in box down the road your Rail Pressure and Boost gauge will become worthless with the Scout.

If you plan on sticking with a programmer then the Scout is the way to go.

If you are going to go the plug in route, either the Rail Pressure gauge or an Adrenaline make more sense. Yes, an ADR costs more than the Scout but, you get all the features above built in plus you get the ability to control a lot of things like rail pressure and fuel injector stretch.


Just something to think about.

 

Thanks Quad, I'm leaning towards your new rail/fp gauge cuz I already have 3 in the pillar, that or a TST or something similar with a RP gauge that does pressure (only) to stack with my BDTD

 

IMO i think matching gauges are overrated.. maybe because i cant justify changing all my gauges to dipricals to match my rail press gauge.. lol





BTW i love the fact that my girl calls it the space shuttle due to all the gauges.. lol

 

I used an indust. glue on the velcro pads. Look in my pix, on the right side of factory gauge cluster is where I have the quad rp. I've been lucky I guess for mine working fine. Plus look at where I have all my gauges, the only thing I can't see is the odom.

 

Why do the RP and Boost gauges become worthless with a Box?

sorry if this is a dumb question...

 

[QUOTE=jroszko62;2461741]Why do the RP and Boost gauges become worthless with a Box?

sorry if this is a dumb question...[/QUOTE

There isn't any dumb quest. Most of the time with a programmer, you're going to be adding a boost fooler. Which will give you false readings anytime you're using the stock wire harness.

 

Gotcha...Makes sense. So for a boost gauge, the solution is to drill and tap your own boost sensor. What is the solution for Rail Pressure?

 

On the rail pressure gauge, the gauge will still register the correct value if it is closest to the sensor in the "stack" of harnesses. In other words, plug the RP gauge harness directly into the RP sensor, then plug the pressure box harness into the back of the gauge harness, and plug the factory harness into the back of the pressure box harness.

Regarding the original post about EV versus EV², the style is close enough that you can run them side-by-side without looking too out of place. The biggest thing you will notice is the flat lens on EV² (convex lens on EV).

Regards,
Michael Pliska

 

Well, I worked 30 hours over time this week so I'll be buying the girlfriend something nice, and probably picking up a rail pressure gauge. Not sure where I'll put it between now and the time I get 2 more gauges. I'll be going with the ev2, and if I don't like how it matches then I'll probably end up buying the rest of the set in ev2's

Typical of me though...

Thanks for the advice guys,
Shawn

 

Don't want the overhead gauges to fall off-- This is what I did...

I got a couple 3/4"wide * 1/8"thick aluminum strips. I think i ordered it from Metalexpress.net but may have got it from Mcmaster.com or even Home depot?? cut them to about 7.25" long. About 1.5" from the end of the AL strip make a 25 degree bend in the strip. Work the strips under the headliner and line them up with the screw holes for the 2 screws that hold the overhead console. You may need to play with the bends to get the AL strips to lay against the windshield with the fit you want. Took me 3 different trys. If I remember I ended up actually making a 90* bend 1.5" from the end and then another 90* bend 1.75" from the end to get the fit I wanted. Using small macine screws either 6-32 or 8-32's secured them to the underside of the gauge pod.One machine scew per side so you can swivel the other end from side to side. The overhead console is held up by 2 screws. Measure the center to center distance between these screws and mount the AL strips the same distance apart on the underside of the gauge pod. with the strips attached to the pod work the strips under the headliner until the pod is tight against the headliner where you want it. you can use a icepick to swivel the ends of the AL strips to line up with the screw holes for the screws that hold up the overhead console. Use a pick to mark these scew hole positions on the AL strips. Take the pod down and drill holes in the AL strips. Now work the pod back in place. I still used velcro but with just the AL strip you couldn't pull the pod down with a crane.. Major PIA but you'll only have to do it once and never worry about it again. Hope i explained it enough you can follow. I didn't take any pictures.

Ken

 

Does the sensor from my current transmission temperature gauge work with the new EV2 gauges as well?

Shawn

 

Nope, unfortunately you will need to change the sensor, but the new sensor comes with the new gauge.

Regards,
Michael Pliska

 

Just installed the EV2 Rail Pressure Gauge. Seems to work pretty well, easy install except for one thing. I guess there must be a tool (which I don't have) for fitting or punching the wires into the connector on the back of the gauge, but if not, you pretty much need the skills and fingers of a surgeon to get the wires into that connector. Big-handed, ham-fisted guys might have difficulty.