Thats funny...I dont read the 3 rd gens forums a whole lot....just remember someone saying that there was no injector pump - I guess I should make sure I know something for sure before I spew

TON4FUN - Dont know what I was thinking - never even thought of the starter soln...even though I have a 2001 I would think everyting would be the same. A procedure would be great and would help a lot of people. I have wanted some type of kill switch since reading of the damaged caused by the theives when one of the DTR's members had his truck stolen....

 

I was just reading my '04 shop manual about the starting system and it seems one could interrupt the circuit between the park/neutral safety switch on automatics and the clutch safety switch on standard trannys.

I'm not sure how to incorporate a non-used switch like the turn signal switch....I'll leave that up to someone like Muzzy.

For what it's worth, the auto tranny's park/neutral safety switch lets the starter solenoid go to ground. The standard tranny's clutch safety switch lets 12v power flow to the starter solenoid. Seems to me this difference would complicate the plan to use the turn-signal switch. No matter which switch one uses for the interrupt, it seems to me it would either work for one tranny type but not the other (12v vs. ground). Unless a relay is used?

Thanks

 

You could easily wire something to the neutral safety.

handymantim, you could wire a relay either way to provide a ground when energized or to provide 12VDC.

I think the easiest way is to use the yellow heavy gage wire leading from the ignition switch in the steering column. That is the wire that energizes the starter relay when you turn the key to the start position. Just cut the wire and run the ignition switch side to one side of a 30amp relay. Then connect the other side of the relay to the wire going to the starter relay. Then just connect the ground the relay to something metal on the column. The hot lead to energize the relay you could rig to a momentary normally open push button. Then all you have to do is hold the button in at the same time you turn the key to the start position. If you aren't pushing the button....no start. Remember to tie your wires to make them look like they are part of the factory harness. That way it is harder for a creative thief to try to bypass your setup.

I thought about hiding my push button inside the ashtray door, so you have to hold the ashtray door in to start the truck.


-Muzzy

 

If you try to start a Dodge with the factory engine immoblizer with a key that doesn't have a chip in the handle, it will run for a few seconds and shut down. I've heard that the engine management computer is basically useless unless you have the key with the right transponder codes.

Does anyone know what exactly this system does to shut down the engine? (I presume it kills the injectors and pump).

 

There is no doubt in my mind that the transponder key system is very effective. However there is always some way to break the code. There will always be some thief who figures out which wire to cross or which code to input into the computer to get the truck to start.

I'm pretty sure I'm going to put a magnetic key holder somewhere on the truck for the times I lose or forget my keys.

Adding an extra switch will add an additional layer of protection.

Jeff, I just read my shop manual and all it says is, "prevents the engine from operating". It doesn't tell how.

 

Yeah, i think id wanna go with a starter killer rather than fuel shut off. IF they cranked it long enough, one it could wear out the starter. and well, wouldnt there be a lack of lubercation?

 

When I was at Ford we had Navigators (very popular in the middle east) stolen. They had the immobilizer system (PATS is what Ford called it) The thieves had scanners of some sort to release the chip. They would proceed to bust the column and away they drove. Into a sea container and off shore. We recovered a couple of them so we know that they were driven without the coded keys. If they want it bad enuff they will take it. Factory systems are just that-from the factory, accessible to anyone to corrupt. A hidden kill switch (which I have always had on all my worthwhile cars) will prevent theft. On my gas engines I always interrupted the ground to the fuel pump. No chance of 12v chafed wires to your kill switch. On my 7.3's I disabled the starter. I'm not telling you where my switch is in my CTD but I'll bet you much $$ you will not find it. And it will crank but not fire. I feel that if it will not crank they feel it is a kill switch and will look for it. But if it cranks and won't go they don't know where to look. Just my .02

 

Spots,

You don't need to tell us where your switch is, but it would be interesting to know how you keep the engine from starting even though it's cranking. What system did you interrupt? I'm guessing it's the fuel system but how? Did you kill the lift pump or that fuel control valve on the injector pump? Or something else?

Thanks!

 

ours wont even start without that chip. the starter cranks, but it wont turn over.

 

Your best bet to do with a immobilizer is to let teh truck run perfectly for 15 seconds to 1 minute. this gives the bad guys enough to get in, crank it, drive away a little bit, and then it'll shut off on them, leaving them cranking away,, getting lots of attention, and they will have no other choice but to run for it. They can call for help, but will be in a pinch when thier helper realizes this is not the truck owner he's talking too....

Besides,, immobilizers are useless for somebody who really wants your truck... Just a flat bed, and a winch,, your truck is history.

My $.02
Merrick

 

Hello everyone,
I'm new this to this site and can share a idea I had after installing a set of 2" daystar spacers in my front end. I thought it would be a lot simpler to remove drivers side battery tray for access to the shock tower,it was'nt,so I left it in and finished the job. When replacing all the fasteners for the battery box , one of the ground wires located on the fenderwell fell behind the power center/battery box gap. Needless to say not only would'nt the truck start , the entire dash was dead. It did turn over though. There are two or three wires (black)with terminals that are held to the fenderwell with a self tapping screw. These grounds look like a good place to imobilize if a negative side of the system is what your looking for !
Mark T.