Fuel shutoff anti-theft ideas?
Fuel shutoff anti-theft ideas?
Anyone have a fuel shutoff switch wired to their lift pump to keep thieves from stealing their truck?
This is my first diesel so I'm not savvy on how the lift pump and pressure pump interact exactly. I'm wondering if starving the pressure pump by cutting off the lift pump via an electrical switch would cause any damage to the fuel system.
If this won't work, are there any other ideas out there for keeping your truck from being started / stolen?
Thanks!
This is my first diesel so I'm not savvy on how the lift pump and pressure pump interact exactly. I'm wondering if starving the pressure pump by cutting off the lift pump via an electrical switch would cause any damage to the fuel system.
If this won't work, are there any other ideas out there for keeping your truck from being started / stolen?
Thanks!
Has anyone used a Bluechip immobilizer???
http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/immobilizer11.htm
I like the idea of a switch on the lift pump....I dont believe it would hurt anything and should be as simple as cutting the 12V dc feed to the lift pump. If the lift pump isnt working - your truck isnt going anywhere.
Does anyone have any tips or better ideas????
http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/immobilizer11.htm
I like the idea of a switch on the lift pump....I dont believe it would hurt anything and should be as simple as cutting the 12V dc feed to the lift pump. If the lift pump isnt working - your truck isnt going anywhere.
Does anyone have any tips or better ideas????
That sounds like it would be perfect.
As long as it kills power to the injection pump as well.
If the lift pump isn't working, I could see damage ocurring to the injection pump as it sucks it's own fuel (on the 2nd gen 24 valve)
Reading the description, it sounds like it kills power to everything but the starter?
(I can't get JAVA on this computer at work, so half the page doesn't load though)
phox
As long as it kills power to the injection pump as well.
If the lift pump isn't working, I could see damage ocurring to the injection pump as it sucks it's own fuel (on the 2nd gen 24 valve)
Reading the description, it sounds like it kills power to everything but the starter?
(I can't get JAVA on this computer at work, so half the page doesn't load though)
phox
Messing with the wiring to shut off the lift pump will not prevent the truck from running. The Injection Pump will continue to pump fuel. It will work that much harder and of course shorten it's life. Could be a two grand mistake as Injection Pump failure due to disabling lift pump would void warranty.
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Third gens dont have an injector pump to my knowledge.....
Never thought of the injector pump drawing fuel when the lift pump was shut off.....yeah, thatd probably kill it. Cant be that simple can it??
How about using a switch to cut the power feed to the injector pump??? (sorry doesnt apply to you third gen guys....)
There has to be something simple that can be done.....any ideas??
Never thought of the injector pump drawing fuel when the lift pump was shut off.....yeah, thatd probably kill it. Cant be that simple can it??
How about using a switch to cut the power feed to the injector pump??? (sorry doesnt apply to you third gen guys....)
There has to be something simple that can be done.....any ideas??
How about wiring a relay to the power wire on the ECU (I believe the dark green/white wire going to pins 20, 30, & 40 on connector #2)? No engine control, it won't run. You can also wiring in another relay to the starter relay. They can't start the truck if there isn't any power to the starter relay. I plan on going the starter relay route. It pretty easy to intercept the signal from the key switch in the steering column. Easier than playing with the ECU harness.
-Muzzy
-Muzzy
I like the starter solenoid interrupt idea. Probably a good plan to stay away from the computer.
Dr. Evil....I just looked in my shop manual and it says a 2004 actually has 3 pumps. The electric lift pump, and then a mechanical low-pressure (80-180psi) pump, and finally the fuel injector pump. In fact here is a cut/paste from the shop manual:
OPERATION
The fuel injection pump supplies high pressure to
the fuel rail independent of engine speed. This high
pressure is then accumulated in the fuel rail. High
pressure fuel is constantly supplied to the injectors
by the fuel rail. The Engine Control Module (ECM)
controls the fueling and timing of the engine by actuating
the injectors.
Fuel enters the system from the electric fuel transfer
(lift) pump, which is attached to the fuel filter
assembly. Fuel is forced through the fuel filter element
and then enters the Fuel Pump/Gear Pump,
which is attached to the rear of the fuel injection
pump. The Fuel Pump/Gear Pump is a low-pressure
pump and produce pressures ranging from 551.5 kpa
(80 psi) to 1241 kpa (180) psi. Fuel then enters the
fuel injection pump. Low pressure fuel is then supplied
to the FCA (Fuel Control Actuator).
The FCA is an electronically controlled solenoid
valve. The ECM controls the amount of fuel that
enters the high-pressure pumping chambers by opening
and closing the FCA based on a demanded fuel
pressure. The FPS (Fuel Pressure Sensor) on the fuel
rail provides the actual fuel pressure. When the
actuator is opened, the maximum amount of fuel is
being supplied to the fuel injection pump. Any fuel
that does not enter the injection pump is directed to
the cascade overflow valve. The cascade overflow
valve regulates how much excess fuel is used for
lubrication of the pump and how much is returned to
the tank through the drain manifold.
Fuel entering the injection pump is pressurized to
between 300-1600 bar (4351-23206 psi) by three
radial pumping chambers. The pressurized fuel is
then supplied to the fuel rail.
Dr. Evil....I just looked in my shop manual and it says a 2004 actually has 3 pumps. The electric lift pump, and then a mechanical low-pressure (80-180psi) pump, and finally the fuel injector pump. In fact here is a cut/paste from the shop manual:
OPERATION
The fuel injection pump supplies high pressure to
the fuel rail independent of engine speed. This high
pressure is then accumulated in the fuel rail. High
pressure fuel is constantly supplied to the injectors
by the fuel rail. The Engine Control Module (ECM)
controls the fueling and timing of the engine by actuating
the injectors.
Fuel enters the system from the electric fuel transfer
(lift) pump, which is attached to the fuel filter
assembly. Fuel is forced through the fuel filter element
and then enters the Fuel Pump/Gear Pump,
which is attached to the rear of the fuel injection
pump. The Fuel Pump/Gear Pump is a low-pressure
pump and produce pressures ranging from 551.5 kpa
(80 psi) to 1241 kpa (180) psi. Fuel then enters the
fuel injection pump. Low pressure fuel is then supplied
to the FCA (Fuel Control Actuator).
The FCA is an electronically controlled solenoid
valve. The ECM controls the amount of fuel that
enters the high-pressure pumping chambers by opening
and closing the FCA based on a demanded fuel
pressure. The FPS (Fuel Pressure Sensor) on the fuel
rail provides the actual fuel pressure. When the
actuator is opened, the maximum amount of fuel is
being supplied to the fuel injection pump. Any fuel
that does not enter the injection pump is directed to
the cascade overflow valve. The cascade overflow
valve regulates how much excess fuel is used for
lubrication of the pump and how much is returned to
the tank through the drain manifold.
Fuel entering the injection pump is pressurized to
between 300-1600 bar (4351-23206 psi) by three
radial pumping chambers. The pressurized fuel is
then supplied to the fuel rail.
Muzzys idea of the starter solinoid is the smart way to go its easy and very cost effective to do. you can hide a switch in the truck somewhere or do a ghost switch which is basically using a switch that aready exists to activate the start sequence. I would use something like the blinker or high beams to activate the relay for start.
If you guys want I can write up quick and easy directions on how to do this. All wiring will occur in the cab under the dash and can be done in less than an hour. Total cost should be around $20-25 bucks.
If you guys want I can write up quick and easy directions on how to do this. All wiring will occur in the cab under the dash and can be done in less than an hour. Total cost should be around $20-25 bucks.
Ton4Fun, that's a great idea to use a switch already in existence (and not being used during the start sequence) to activate a relay which will in turn activate the starter relay. Since it only has to be momentary (i.e. during the start sequence) it should work slick.
Any writeup you can provide would be WAY COOL!
Thanks!
Any writeup you can provide would be WAY COOL!
Thanks!
Originally posted by TON4FUN
If you guys want I can write up quick and easy directions on how to do this. All wiring will occur in the cab under the dash and can be done in less than an hour. Total cost should be around $20-25 bucks.
If you guys want I can write up quick and easy directions on how to do this. All wiring will occur in the cab under the dash and can be done in less than an hour. Total cost should be around $20-25 bucks.


